Sorry. I didn't login for about a month.
The model numbers are correct (but dunno whether fit for the same machine of other countries). ojtee also successfully got the same from HK. It thus explains the parts did work. Finally, laser ... I understand cheap laser head can be found in internet (even in ebay).
Lastly, I dun have paypal, but if I could assist I could try my best to assist. I will try my best to read this thread once a week to see whether further assistance from me is required.
The model numbers are correct (but dunno whether fit for the same machine of other countries). ojtee also successfully got the same from HK. It thus explains the parts did work. Finally, laser ... I understand cheap laser head can be found in internet (even in ebay).
Lastly, I dun have paypal, but if I could assist I could try my best to assist. I will try my best to read this thread once a week to see whether further assistance from me is required.
I have a Krell KAV300CD which has what sound like the same problem as tubetvr's TEAC. I am told that the CD mechanism in the unit is a teac vrds cmk4 so it all seems rather plausible. The problem is that there is no local support for Krell in Cape Town South Africa so I am reduced to trying to sort out the problem myself. I have removed the CD drive from the unit but have not had the confidence to open it up fearing that I might not be able to realign the laser or worse not get it back together. My questions are:
Should I give it a go; I am pretty mechanically minded and have all the tools; and,
If I can locate a damaged gear what are the chances that might find a replacement?
Dale
Should I give it a go; I am pretty mechanically minded and have all the tools; and,
If I can locate a damaged gear what are the chances that might find a replacement?
Dale
Folks,
I have the same problem you guys have had and need a 2-step gear for the TEAC T1 transport in my Wadia 850. I am however based in the US (California). Any help on where I could order the part from in the US would be helpful. Please post a link if you can.
Also, based on a visual inspection of my assembly, I am trying to figure out a procedure to disassemble, replace and put it back together. I don't see a screw securing the 2-step gear -- is there a rivet (and can that be just taken out by gentle force and put back in)? Any help on the procedure would help. Thanks much!
Pnkfam
I have the same problem you guys have had and need a 2-step gear for the TEAC T1 transport in my Wadia 850. I am however based in the US (California). Any help on where I could order the part from in the US would be helpful. Please post a link if you can.
Also, based on a visual inspection of my assembly, I am trying to figure out a procedure to disassemble, replace and put it back together. I don't see a screw securing the 2-step gear -- is there a rivet (and can that be just taken out by gentle force and put back in)? Any help on the procedure would help. Thanks much!
Pnkfam
Hi guy's, seems I too have the dreaded cog of death problem.
KAV300CD, leant to my sister whilst I was out of the country for 18 months. Got it back from her at the weekend, hooked up and the drawer mechanism fails to open, accompanied by motor whirring and an alarming grating noise.
I've taken the drive chassis out (quite easy on the Krell) and following the instructions earlier on this thread (thanks guy's) managed to reach the sled gear which is sans 2 gear teeth. These were neatly shredded and sitting on the sled, held there by residual lubricant.
Teac UK refused to sell me a service manual for the CMK4 mechanism. They say I'm not a qualified / certified TEAC repair engineer and therefore it's not company policy to do so. I guess an M.Sc. in electronics design doesn't count. Hmmmm :-(
If you are having difficulty disassembling, here's a hint: to take the sled out you need to depress the two retainers (small plastic springy parts) which are located about an inch back from the front of the pressed metal chassis. The sled can then be pulled from their runners. The gears and belt drive will then be found be removing the screw holding a small metal plate at the front of the chassis.
So now onwards to try and source that pesky plastic gear.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Uberteknik.
KAV300CD, leant to my sister whilst I was out of the country for 18 months. Got it back from her at the weekend, hooked up and the drawer mechanism fails to open, accompanied by motor whirring and an alarming grating noise.
I've taken the drive chassis out (quite easy on the Krell) and following the instructions earlier on this thread (thanks guy's) managed to reach the sled gear which is sans 2 gear teeth. These were neatly shredded and sitting on the sled, held there by residual lubricant.
Teac UK refused to sell me a service manual for the CMK4 mechanism. They say I'm not a qualified / certified TEAC repair engineer and therefore it's not company policy to do so. I guess an M.Sc. in electronics design doesn't count. Hmmmm :-(
If you are having difficulty disassembling, here's a hint: to take the sled out you need to depress the two retainers (small plastic springy parts) which are located about an inch back from the front of the pressed metal chassis. The sled can then be pulled from their runners. The gears and belt drive will then be found be removing the screw holding a small metal plate at the front of the chassis.
So now onwards to try and source that pesky plastic gear.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Uberteknik.
Update:
Tried two local model shops this morning, with the thinking that model car/aircraft servo gears would be a good approximation.
All well and good, but the problem now is there are so many gears to choose from, the shop owners can't be bothered to spend the time searching through catalougues for a part that would at best cost £2.
So I phoned TEAC spares department again and withoit explaining who I was, quoted the part number. They have them in stock for £25.10p with £6.50 p&p. With VAT, this works out to £36. Still a hefty sum but not quite the £50-odd old Charlie boy wants.
I'm seriously thinking of buying one and cloning it via diy molding.
Should be able to get the cost down to between £10 and £15 if enough of you guys are still interested?
I've taken some photo's of the drive disassembly and will post them shortly.
Tried two local model shops this morning, with the thinking that model car/aircraft servo gears would be a good approximation.
All well and good, but the problem now is there are so many gears to choose from, the shop owners can't be bothered to spend the time searching through catalougues for a part that would at best cost £2.
So I phoned TEAC spares department again and withoit explaining who I was, quoted the part number. They have them in stock for £25.10p with £6.50 p&p. With VAT, this works out to £36. Still a hefty sum but not quite the £50-odd old Charlie boy wants.
I'm seriously thinking of buying one and cloning it via diy molding.
Should be able to get the cost down to between £10 and £15 if enough of you guys are still interested?
I've taken some photo's of the drive disassembly and will post them shortly.
Made some basic measurements in an attempt to source alternate gears.
From my reckoning, the gears are all 0.6 modulus stub pinions:
2-16, Pulley gear: (pt no 5801571000) 9.5mm OD, 15 teeth = 0.6m
2-17, 2 step gear: (pt no 5801571100)2-13, Main gear: (pt no 5801570900)Now the bad news. Stock gears are almost always 0.5mod and 0.7mod and since the modulus dictates the outer diameter of the gears, hence the distance between centres, they cannot be exchanged. Further 36 teeth is also outside the normal stock range.
I phoned a precision gear manufacturer (Muffet Engineering) and a very helpful engineer estimated around £250 for fabricating 2 sets of gears out of brass, which should make them nigh on indestructible at a price! Injection moulding is not a cost option.
I don't have access to a lathe, as another option would be to purchase the appropriate gear cutters and fabricate myself. Invariably the cutters would cost more than paying someone else to make them!
The TEAC sourced part now looks attractive albeit galling (if you excuse the pun). Still doesn't fill me with a sense of security if the replacement is of the same poor quality materials as per the originals.
So I placed my order with TEAC today and I will definitely use it to make copies from RTV silicone molds and polyuerthane resin.
Disassembly photo sequence to follow.
From my reckoning, the gears are all 0.6 modulus stub pinions:
2-16, Pulley gear: (pt no 5801571000) 9.5mm OD, 15 teeth = 0.6m
2-17, 2 step gear: (pt no 5801571100)
Outer 22.7mm OD, 36 teeth = 0.6m, 1.4mm width
Inner OD?, 14 teeth, 3.5mm width
4.8mm bore dia
Inner OD?, 14 teeth, 3.5mm width
4.8mm bore dia
Outer gear 54.9mm OD, 90 teeth = 0.6m
I phoned a precision gear manufacturer (Muffet Engineering) and a very helpful engineer estimated around £250 for fabricating 2 sets of gears out of brass, which should make them nigh on indestructible at a price! Injection moulding is not a cost option.
I don't have access to a lathe, as another option would be to purchase the appropriate gear cutters and fabricate myself. Invariably the cutters would cost more than paying someone else to make them!
The TEAC sourced part now looks attractive albeit galling (if you excuse the pun). Still doesn't fill me with a sense of security if the replacement is of the same poor quality materials as per the originals.
So I placed my order with TEAC today and I will definitely use it to make copies from RTV silicone molds and polyuerthane resin.
Disassembly photo sequence to follow.
TEAC phoned back today to confirm order and request payment which totalled £36 inc VAT, P&P.
The sales chap apologised for the cost and said the original tooling had broken. There was still enough demand to go ahead, but they had no option other than pass on the costs amortised over an estimated lifetime run.
He also mentioned that the plastic composition was changed to something more durable. We'll see.
As promised, here are the disassembly intructions for the Krell KAV300CD.
PS. Attachment file sizes are too big. I need to re-size before posting. to follow.
The sales chap apologised for the cost and said the original tooling had broken. There was still enough demand to go ahead, but they had no option other than pass on the costs amortised over an estimated lifetime run.
He also mentioned that the plastic composition was changed to something more durable. We'll see.
As promised, here are the disassembly intructions for the Krell KAV300CD.
- Remove 12x T10 countersunk torx screws and pull off top panel.
- Refer to diagrams (parts list and exploded view) provided by spzzzzkt earlier in this thread and photographs:
- Locate and remove the following cables from the Servo PCB:
- 1x 6-way foil-wrapped multi-coloured with molex connector
- 1x black earth wire (nearest back panel) by unscrewing T10 torx screw. NB this will release 2x wires - the smaller of which also forms part of the above muti-core cable.
- 4x black/brown wires with molex connectors. The connectors are (1 of each) 2-way black, white and red, 3-way white so are all unique and only fit one way.
- 1x white flat ribbon cable. This cable is a slot-in type, so comes away without the connector.
- Remove 4x T10 threadlocked torx screws securing transport chassis to the base panel.
- Gently slide back and lift out the transport chassis. The rear of the chassis needs to be angled upwards at the same time as sliding backwards. Watch out not to scrape the drawer front plate on the sharp edges of the drawer front panel opening.
- Remove 4x M3 Philips screws (item 41) and prise off the motor cover (item 9).
- Remove 2x M2 Philips screws (item 45) and prise off motor bracket and CD clamp assembly (item 12, 2 etc).
- At this point you will need to fully open the CD tray (item24) which may be fiddly as the gear wheels and CD lifting mechanism may all be in the wrong positions since the gears are mashed. I found that rotating the large gear wheel (which can be accessed from underneath the tray) whilst sliding back and forth the tray with some firm (but not forceful pursuasion) will eventually yield success.
- With the tray now fully open, final removal is by depressing the two spring retainers at the sides of the tray (about one inch back from the front of the chassis) and simultaneously sliding the tray from the 6x runners.
- Remove 1x M3 Philips screw (item 51) and withdraw-upwards gear cover (item 19).
- Remove 1x M3 Philips screw and washer (items 43 & 46) and lift off main gear. The T-Lever (item 14) will spring out of position as the gear is lifted.
- You now have access to the 2-step gear (item 17). Any damage at this point will be painfully obvious.
- Removal of this gear is by lifting up the pulley-gear to its limit of travel and simultaneously leveraging out the broken part which may crumble further or disintegrate completely as you do so.
- Clean all debris (I use a soft artists paint brush) from around the gear mechanisms, chassis etc. paying particular attention to the teeth of the other gears as grit may easily be trapped. It's good at this time to also inspect the laser assembly and associated gears/rack assemblies for damage.
- After replacing the broken parts, re-assembly is a direct reversal of points 1 to 13. However the main-gear and t-lever will inevitably be in the wrong positions. You will need to fiddle around somewhat to finally get their correct alignments. The photographs provided should help as the main gear has radial ribs on its top surface which can be used as reference points. I have shown these in theor correct final positions.
PS. Attachment file sizes are too big. I need to re-size before posting. to follow.
The 2-step gear arrived recorded delivery Saturday morning. The despatch note was typed on TEAC corporate stationery but the delivery packaging was Charles Hyde & Son. Evidently TEAC oustsources parts supply and distribution to CHS hence the £14 odd premium they want over TEACS prices!
The plastic material used for the new gear looks (lighter and shinier surface) and feels different to the duff part (more akin to nylon based), but there is no way of telling if this was how the original gear also looked.
Installed and re-assembled the drive this morning. So now the tray mechanism works faultlessly - however I noticed that not all discs can be read reliably and some not at all. Seems to be the longer compilation type discs are the ones with the difficulty. Need to investigate further. My suspicion is with the laser assembly.
But for now the tray mechanism works like new.
The plastic material used for the new gear looks (lighter and shinier surface) and feels different to the duff part (more akin to nylon based), but there is no way of telling if this was how the original gear also looked.
Installed and re-assembled the drive this morning. So now the tray mechanism works faultlessly - however I noticed that not all discs can be read reliably and some not at all. Seems to be the longer compilation type discs are the ones with the difficulty. Need to investigate further. My suspicion is with the laser assembly.
But for now the tray mechanism works like new.
..I was thinking of doing the same thing myself (!) lol
Need to get my copland working again - I'm missing her now
TEAC VRDS 7 gear broken
Just ordered 1 from Signals UK. It cost a bomb for this piece of 2 step gear. I have tried USA/JApan/Singapore and after exhaustive search, you can also get it at CHS - replacement remote controls, instruction manuals, audio & video accessories, electronic components & spare parts ( Would not post overseas).
Thanks to this forum that we are still able to salvage the old Teac but looking at the cost of maintaining it might be a problem in the future as the spares are not only expensive but getting scare.
regards
rusty
Just ordered 1 from Signals UK. It cost a bomb for this piece of 2 step gear. I have tried USA/JApan/Singapore and after exhaustive search, you can also get it at CHS - replacement remote controls, instruction manuals, audio & video accessories, electronic components & spare parts ( Would not post overseas).
Thanks to this forum that we are still able to salvage the old Teac but looking at the cost of maintaining it might be a problem in the future as the spares are not only expensive but getting scare.
regards
rusty
My Copland 288 has started to make a noise on opening and closing the drawer and track changes. Only just bought it 2nd hand as well.
It looks like the lower gear which drives the laser back and forward has lost a tooth on the small part that drives the top gear but what is this lower gear called, A,B or 2 Step ?
I think mech is the CMK-4
Picture here...
http://www.dms-audio.webspace.virginmedia.com/photos/gear.jpg
I'm confused by the part identification
The other top gear looks newish. Bottom gear is very yellow.
Do I need to take the whole mech out to replace it ?
David
Only just bought it 2nd hand as well. It looks like the lower gear which drives the laser back and forward has lost a tooth on the small part that drives the top gear but what is this lower gear called, A,B or 2 Step ?
I think mech is the CMK-4
Picture here...
http://www.dms-audio.webspace.virginmedia.com/photos/gear.jpg
I'm confused by the part identification
The other top gear looks newish. Bottom gear is very yellow.
Do I need to take the whole mech out to replace it ?
David
Last edited:
I am in the process of aquiring a replacement for the failed white gear that is part of the drawer opening in my Krell CD. Just as I repaired the audio circuit failure due to leaking caps, the mechanics failed I got a price quote of 12 USD for that gear from Krell, but have not completed the order yet. Still figuring out their parts order procedure, and they have not given me their part number, for the form. Perhaps they have other parts for that CMK-4 but it does not appear that their parts ordering system is very efficient. But it is what it is, have to deal with them. Teac in USA has not answered me.
I got a price quote of 12 USD for that gear from Krell, but have not completed the order yet. Still figuring out their parts order procedure, and they have not given me their part number, for the form. Perhaps they have other parts for that CMK-4 but it does not appear that their parts ordering system is very efficient. But it is what it is, have to deal with them. Teac in USA has not answered me.Hi Swamp,
I just bought this from signals UK.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/116527-teac-vrds-cd-t1-gear-broken-10.html
looks similar from your pics.
regards
I just bought this from signals UK.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/116527-teac-vrds-cd-t1-gear-broken-10.html
looks similar from your pics.
regards
apologies for the link earlier. This is the correct link to the part online from signalUK
Signals UK - Teac Krell CD Gear 2 Step Door
regards
Signals UK - Teac Krell CD Gear 2 Step Door
regards
From here you can buy gears A, B, Main, Pully and 2 Step
A & B drive the laser forward and back
Search results for vrdst1
The teac CMK-4 mechanism is used in :-
Copland 288
Copland 277
TEAC VRDS-7
TEAC VRDS-T1
WADIA 6
WADIA 8
WADIA 21
A & B drive the laser forward and back
Search results for vrdst1
The teac CMK-4 mechanism is used in :-
Copland 288
Copland 277
TEAC VRDS-7
TEAC VRDS-T1
WADIA 6
WADIA 8
WADIA 21