samoloko said:at first I had connected both yellow wires to the gnd of last filter cap
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1807410#post1807410
but after Andrew T recommendation - one post ubove I did extension with gray wire
one last thing - I don't have safety network - I only experiment at that point
That grey wire extention is not a good idea. Both ground wires should be connected directly to the caps.
Are you using a single supply to power both amp channels?
Hi Peter
at the moment I am trying to find the reason why I get buzz so I use only one F5 amp pcb which Is connected like on the picture
0V from the PSU filter caps - gnd of F5 amp pcb - yellow wire
0V from the PSU filter caps - speaker return - yellow wire
the Input of F5 amp Is open circuit
at the moment I am trying to find the reason why I get buzz so I use only one F5 amp pcb which Is connected like on the picture
0V from the PSU filter caps - gnd of F5 amp pcb - yellow wire
0V from the PSU filter caps - speaker return - yellow wire
the Input of F5 amp Is open circuit
The input shouldn't be left open if you are checking for buzz.; you shoulkd have a properly operating source connected.
There is not much that can go wrong here, I've built many amps wired this way and all worked fine.
See pics of my latest one: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1740824#post1740824
Just make sure that both ground wires are connected DIRECTLY to the commonn point on caps, without the extender. Ground from RCA connect directly to SG point on amp board and nowhere else. RCA should be isolated form a chassis.
There is not much that can go wrong here, I've built many amps wired this way and all worked fine.
See pics of my latest one: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1740824#post1740824
Just make sure that both ground wires are connected DIRECTLY to the commonn point on caps, without the extender. Ground from RCA connect directly to SG point on amp board and nowhere else. RCA should be isolated form a chassis.
When it comes to standard resistors, I recommend Dale CMFxxxKQFCT available from DigiKey. If you want something better (which may not make much difference anyway) you can go with Caddocks MK132 or Vishay S102.
As to power resistors, blue 3W Panasonics fit the board, but I'd reather go with Mills 5W (available from percyaudio or partsconnexion)
As to power resistors, blue 3W Panasonics fit the board, but I'd reather go with Mills 5W (available from percyaudio or partsconnexion)
Those were actually MP-930 used as series resistors between filter caps. Didn't work out as expected and I switched to Mills mounted directly on the caps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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