I think that you will struggle to find any data on your driver. Mission has been sold to the far east. You could try mailing the manufacturer and see if they can supply replacements. But the 73 series is over 10 years old and was sold when the company was under different owners.
I have the 753 speakers, and information on them is scarce. Most of it comes from my own reports on my mods on this forum.
However, You could model the enclosure that you have and try to match it up with some available drivers. There is various speaker moddeling software on the web. This might be able to calculate for you specs of a driver that would suit this unit.
An alternative would be to try and find a trashed set on fleabay or similar which you can rob for parts.
The 733's were OK in their day, but dont spend too much money on these. My memory was that the cabinates are made from chp board, pretty light weight. But if you like the mission sound, (light, controlled and a crisp top end) then these could be improved for not a lot of cash.
I was a mission fan at the time these came out, I had, and still own the mission 760i bookshelfs, later on I went on to buy the 753's. However if I am to be honest, the mission 73 series kinda put me off missions budget offerings. Its not that they were bad, its just that the competition moved on a bit.
I have the 753 speakers, and information on them is scarce. Most of it comes from my own reports on my mods on this forum.
However, You could model the enclosure that you have and try to match it up with some available drivers. There is various speaker moddeling software on the web. This might be able to calculate for you specs of a driver that would suit this unit.
An alternative would be to try and find a trashed set on fleabay or similar which you can rob for parts.
The 733's were OK in their day, but dont spend too much money on these. My memory was that the cabinates are made from chp board, pretty light weight. But if you like the mission sound, (light, controlled and a crisp top end) then these could be improved for not a lot of cash.
I was a mission fan at the time these came out, I had, and still own the mission 760i bookshelfs, later on I went on to buy the 753's. However if I am to be honest, the mission 73 series kinda put me off missions budget offerings. Its not that they were bad, its just that the competition moved on a bit.
Mission has replied to me that these woofers are no longer available. I will try to find a replacement.
A product information guide I found online for the M73 said that the low frequency unit is a 160mm bonded woven glass composite cone with 25mm voice coil.
Is 160 mm comparable to a 6 inch driver. What kind of driver would I be looking for? Should I count on being able to use the Missions crossover and tweeter with another speaker?
I have thought about using an Audio Nirvana Super 6 Full Range without the XO and tweeter. It is probably not the optimal cabinet but AN's seem pretty flexible.
A product information guide I found online for the M73 said that the low frequency unit is a 160mm bonded woven glass composite cone with 25mm voice coil.
Is 160 mm comparable to a 6 inch driver. What kind of driver would I be looking for? Should I count on being able to use the Missions crossover and tweeter with another speaker?
I have thought about using an Audio Nirvana Super 6 Full Range without the XO and tweeter. It is probably not the optimal cabinet but AN's seem pretty flexible.
Hi,
The M73 is not the 733.
Polypropylene. They may be equivalent to other 6.5" drivers.
The frame indicates they may be made by Peerless.
TBH a new spare pair, if you can find them, will cost more than you
would pay for a pair of any number of other vintage speakers.l
consider using the cabinets for ?
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/RS180_2way/RS180_2way.htm
Or you can fit generic driver that will get them working in a fashion,
reusing the presumably simple c/o and tweeter, but no guarantees.
from http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/
At $12 each the Peerless 11-078-1 might work ok. You might
need to put 8R L-pads on the tweeters to balance them more.
(check the dimensions carefully if you want a drop in fit, it looks
like the diameter to the surround edge is somewhat higher.)
edit : apologies there is a minimum order of $80, so you may
need to ask here to tag the drivers to someone elses order.
/sreten.
The M73 is not the 733.
Polypropylene. They may be equivalent to other 6.5" drivers.
The frame indicates they may be made by Peerless.
TBH a new spare pair, if you can find them, will cost more than you
would pay for a pair of any number of other vintage speakers.l
consider using the cabinets for ?
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/RS180_2way/RS180_2way.htm
Or you can fit generic driver that will get them working in a fashion,
reusing the presumably simple c/o and tweeter, but no guarantees.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
from http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/
At $12 each the Peerless 11-078-1 might work ok. You might
need to put 8R L-pads on the tweeters to balance them more.
(check the dimensions carefully if you want a drop in fit, it looks
like the diameter to the surround edge is somewhat higher.)
edit : apologies there is a minimum order of $80, so you may
need to ask here to tag the drivers to someone elses order.
/sreten.I took off the plastic baffle cover and removed the tweeter and I now have two circular holes in 3/4"(19mm) MDF. The top tweeter hole is approximately 2 3/8"(58mm) and the woofer hole below is approximately 5 5/8"(142mm). There is a cross brace a little more than 4 1/2"(115mm) behind the back of the front baffle. Directly below the woofer hole is a port that is approximately 3" in diameter and aproximately 4" deep.
Perhaps I should just find a compatible aftermarket woofer/tweeter/XO combo or just use the old tweeter to plug its hole and use a single full range driver.
I am trying to minimize the cost and difficulty of this project while achieving good sound. I might use these in my son's bedroom. Any ideas would be appreciated
Sretan,
That top picture looks like the woofer that I removed. I don't think I can fill that minimum order from the vendor you suggested.
Thanks
Perhaps I should just find a compatible aftermarket woofer/tweeter/XO combo or just use the old tweeter to plug its hole and use a single full range driver.
I am trying to minimize the cost and difficulty of this project while achieving good sound. I might use these in my son's bedroom. Any ideas would be appreciated
Sretan,
That top picture looks like the woofer that I removed. I don't think I can fill that minimum order from the vendor you suggested.
Thanks
You could try contacting
Wilmslow Audio.
They're not cheap (and shipping might well kill the deal), but they specialise in supply of replacement drivers for defunct designs of commercial speakers.
Wilmslow Audio.
They're not cheap (and shipping might well kill the deal), but they specialise in supply of replacement drivers for defunct designs of commercial speakers.
Hi,
Well if someone here buying some NHT stuff will not help the
implication is still there. Search out some older Peerless drivers
with that particular frame, or for a full rebuild go with IMO :
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/RS180_2way/RS180_2way.htm
/sreten.
Well if someone here buying some NHT stuff will not help the
implication is still there. Search out some older Peerless drivers
with that particular frame, or for a full rebuild go with IMO :
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/RS180_2way/RS180_2way.htm
/sreten.Sreton,
I was referring to the Dayton and Seas drivers that you were referring to in this link.
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/RS180_2way/RS180_2way.htm
I was referring to the Dayton and Seas drivers that you were referring to in this link.
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/RS180_2way/RS180_2way.htm
Hi,
You must use the crossover as specified for that design.
The crossovers should not be that difficult if you read
up a little and do know how to solder properly.
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Articles/constxo/xoconst.htm
/sreten.
You must use the crossover as specified for that design.
The crossovers should not be that difficult if you read
up a little and do know how to solder properly.
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Articles/constxo/xoconst.htm
/sreten.- Status
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