Is there any possible way to make your own recone kit, or fix a driver that no longer has re-cones available?
mold my own paper and wind my own coils etc?
or pay a company to make a custom recone?
mold my own paper and wind my own coils etc?
or pay a company to make a custom recone?
Depends on what you need to repair, what driver and what intended use. Because speakers are developed for a wide range aof applications, there are all kinds of margins one does not need.
What brand, what age,, show pics please. .
My case: I repaired a woofer, made a new spider from pertinax and new surround from chamois and lo and behold, after proper installing it had the same resonance. I did it for testing though.
What brand, what age,, show pics please. .
My case: I repaired a woofer, made a new spider from pertinax and new surround from chamois and lo and behold, after proper installing it had the same resonance. I did it for testing though.
Many of the better USA recone companies can source a wide range of generic cones and voice coils. Of course a lot depends on what sort of driver it is and if it is worth the expense and effort as opposed to buying another example used (ebay for example) or just buying new drivers to make a replacement. The replacement cone may or may not be close enough to the original, but the driver will function similarly one would expect.
Is there a low-cost DIY alternative to buying replacement $20 foam surrounds for a 5 inch woofer? Like chamois, craft foam sheets, or old bicyle inner tubes, etc? The speakers are not worth the cost they want for replacement foam surrounds.
generally speaking no.
but for low cost spkrs no harm in experimenting.
you might find lower cost sources... maybe.
but for low cost spkrs no harm in experimenting.
you might find lower cost sources... maybe.
I am making my own cones and voice coils, but found that standard surroundings work nicely. Maybe you can fine what you need here:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/212953-project-ryu-diy-field-coil-loudspeaker-33.html
I once rebuilt the ignition vacuum advance of my old Chrysler
Imperial using a dishcloth soaked through with RTV silicone.
Worked so good, I bought a new part but never installed it...
Kinda the same thing, sorta, maybe...
Imperial using a dishcloth soaked through with RTV silicone.
Worked so good, I bought a new part but never installed it...
Kinda the same thing, sorta, maybe...
just got another idea, inspired from this thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/247989-two-way-coaxial-loudspeakers-molded-waveguides.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/247989-two-way-coaxial-loudspeakers-molded-waveguides.html
Have a look at this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/18149-how-make-paper-speaker-cones.html
Yes, there are VC standards.
In fact, practically every brand has its own, so need specific VC.
What's very confusing (although each company knows what *they* mean) is that nominal size may refer to different oparts of the VC or magnetic circuit.
The VC rides in a tight narrow gap, the free space between the inner cylindric polepiece diameter and the hole cut in the outer magnet top plate.
So a seemingly innocuous statement such as "oh, it has a 1" voice coil" may actually mean:
1) the voice coil former may have been wound on a 1" (25.4 mm) lathe turned mandrel.
2) the polepiece is made out of cylindrical 1" bar stock, so VC must be *slightly* larger, leaving a usually .125" free space between them, so it moves without scratching.
You need at least same clearance "outside", between VC outside and plate hole inside.
3) the plate hole measures 1" , so actual VC is somewhat smaller, by the amount stated above.
4) / 5) / 6) .... the speaker may be made in a Metric Country, so you have 3 extra possiblities, built around 25mm bar stock available there.
So "1 measure" actually means "6" different, incompatible ones.
FWIW an ex employee of mine, now semi-retired, gets some extra cash by repairing "unrepairable" speakers, (usually because of lack of proper parts).
What does he do?
He has an old wood lathe, he accurately measures the dead speaker VC gap, adds needed clearance and turns a custom VC winding die out of hardwood, then polishes it with finest sandpaper, makes surface real smooth with steel wool and lightly waxes it (or he would never be able to pull the finished VC out of it), then he handwinds a custom VC around it.
Specially useful for odd types (mostly found in car speakers) such as 4 layers, dual VC wound one on top of the other, on abnormally long ones for those ridiculous subwoofers with 3 or 4 magnets stacked.
He won't get rich but extra money sure helps.
I forgot: he saves the odd sized dies he made, properly labelled as "Bomber Nuclear Destroyer 12" 2400W" or whatever model it was, for future customers.
In fact, practically every brand has its own, so need specific VC.
What's very confusing (although each company knows what *they* mean) is that nominal size may refer to different oparts of the VC or magnetic circuit.
The VC rides in a tight narrow gap, the free space between the inner cylindric polepiece diameter and the hole cut in the outer magnet top plate.
So a seemingly innocuous statement such as "oh, it has a 1" voice coil" may actually mean:
1) the voice coil former may have been wound on a 1" (25.4 mm) lathe turned mandrel.
2) the polepiece is made out of cylindrical 1" bar stock, so VC must be *slightly* larger, leaving a usually .125" free space between them, so it moves without scratching.
You need at least same clearance "outside", between VC outside and plate hole inside.
3) the plate hole measures 1" , so actual VC is somewhat smaller, by the amount stated above.
4) / 5) / 6) .... the speaker may be made in a Metric Country, so you have 3 extra possiblities, built around 25mm bar stock available there.
So "1 measure" actually means "6" different, incompatible ones.
FWIW an ex employee of mine, now semi-retired, gets some extra cash by repairing "unrepairable" speakers, (usually because of lack of proper parts).
What does he do?
He has an old wood lathe, he accurately measures the dead speaker VC gap, adds needed clearance and turns a custom VC winding die out of hardwood, then polishes it with finest sandpaper, makes surface real smooth with steel wool and lightly waxes it (or he would never be able to pull the finished VC out of it), then he handwinds a custom VC around it.
Specially useful for odd types (mostly found in car speakers) such as 4 layers, dual VC wound one on top of the other, on abnormally long ones for those ridiculous subwoofers with 3 or 4 magnets stacked.
He won't get rich but extra money sure helps.
I forgot: he saves the odd sized dies he made, properly labelled as "Bomber Nuclear Destroyer 12" 2400W" or whatever model it was, for future customers.
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