Reparing my Denon PMA-560

Hi everybody,

I am the proud owner of a Denon PMA-560 that my father gave to me a few years ago. Sadly, the sound coming out of the speakers recently started to deteriorate. First in the right channel, then in both. The sound is randomly coming out more or less clean. Sometimes, there is barely any sound coming out...

I have not been able to attribute the issue to a specific input ou output channel. It keeps coming back no matter the source (turntable/PC), the input or the output. I already tried cleaning the output switch as it was tripping (same issue as in this thread) but the problem persists. All of this led me to think that there is a faulty electronic component that I should replace.

Ther person behind this great website helped me and it seems that the output relays could be responsible (specs are : HEC DHT2TU type, 24VDC, 3A120V AC). I don't know which relay I should buy to replace them.
Should I look for the same specs ? If yes should it be a coil tension of 24V ~120V AC or DC ?
Could I kill two birds with one stone and chose some better ones to make an upgrade ? If yes which ones ?

Thanks for taking the time to read this !

For Sale DimDim's Universal Arduino Signal Isolator boards and kit of parts

As per the Subject line, I have a kit of parts, including a PCB for DimDims Universal Arduino Signal Isolator Board and additional unpopulated boards.
See DimDims blog here: rev 1.2 and Main Page
Full kit of parts + board = $40 US plus shipping
blank boards = $2 each plus shipping

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QUAD 306 revamp - I am in awe!

Folks, I want to share my journey with Quad 306, in case it might help someone else in the future. Firstly, I am in no way an electronic expert but I have been tinkering around the amplifiers for about 30 years, so I have learnt a few basics along the way.

I acquired a Quad 306 (Revision 2 PCB) from a friend. He was about to dump it in the recycling because one channel was dead and the fact that he had bought a new Marantz amp. It has since been lying around with me for a couple of years. The past month I got an itch to feel the smell of the solder again, so I opened it up to see the internals. I found a few burnt resistors and after doing some research, I replaced the resistors and turned on the amp again. I was amazed to find that's all that was wrong with the other channel, which was now working with no issues. I was also very impressed with the sound quality coming out of it. This made me think if I could improve it further.

The first step was to figure out why the resistors got burnt, but the answer was right in front of me in the Quad 306 service manual. Page 10, note (C) - "The centre-tapped DC Line is floating and some faults may cause this to shift putting up to 80v on one side possibly damaging R30/R31 (2K2ohm)." However, I also had R22 (560R) smoked out, not sure why.

So after replacing every single resistor with better-specked Vishay resistors and doing some upgrades, I am gobsmacked with how good this thing sounds. I am literally in awe and just in love with it. Here is the list of things I have done;
  1. Main power capacitors upgraded to 6800uf 63v, bypassed by 0.1uf Panasonic film capacitors.
  2. Replace the rectifier bridge with GBU604 (Strictly speaking, not required)
  3. Bypass rectifier bridge outputs with 0.1uf 250v Panasonic capacitors to reduce high-frequency noise and diode ringing (TI - Power supply design guidance)
  4. Put a Schottky diode across the main power supply capacitors to clamp down the ground ( LesW - Quad 306, Pink Fish Media post)
  5. Put a 22uf decoupling capacitor across zener diode D1, and D2 to filter the power supply to TLC271 ( LesW - Quad 306, Pink Fish Media post)
  6. Put a 100nf decoupling capacitor across zener diodes D3 and D4. (Dada upgrade guidance)
  7. Replace the existing 120k R6 resistor with 62k resistor (Dada upgrade guidance)
  8. Replace the existing 9R1 resistor R13 to 27R resistor to change input sensitivity to 1.0V (Dada upgrade guidance)
  9. Replace existing 47uf capacitor C7 with 100uf 63v capacitor (Dada upgrade guidance)
  10. Capacitors C1, C4, C5, and C6 were replaced like for like with polystyrene capacitors. (Dada upgrade guidance)
  11. C2 replaced with 330nF and C3 replaced with 1uf MKT capacitors (Dada upgrade guidance)
  12. Capacitor C8 47p Silver mica was replaced with a brand new Silver mica capacitor, like for like. (Dada upgrade recommends polystyrene here)
  13. Replaced all zener diodes and 1n4003 with the latest versions like for like.
  14. Replaced TLC271 with a newer version. TLC271CP (original) is rated at 0 to 70 degrees temperature and TLC271IP is rated at -40 to 85 degrees temperature. For the price of another 2 euros, I thought why not. Plus after 25-30 years of technological improvements, I am sure the latest ones are better in every aspect of performance, even when working as a DC servo.

I noticed, since putting Schottky diodes across the main capacitors the amp doesn't heat up much at all. It has most certainly brought the working temperatures down a lot. At low volumes, it doesn't even get warm and stays cold to the touch. I can have the amp running for hours and it barely gets warm. Whereas before it use to get quite a bit warm/hot to the touch. The difference in heat reduction is huge.

Few warnings for anyone who might be working on these little gems
  • There are different revisions to the PCB and minor improvements along the way. Check the PCB revision and the corresponding schematics before you tweak any values.
  • On the Revision 2 PCB the marked direction of the diode D2 is incorrect, so be careful. On Revision 3 PCB this was corrected.
  • R12 is marked as 2K2 on schematics, but 330 ohms is installed. On Revision 3 schematics this was corrected to show 330 ohms.
  • Use Quad 306 schematics as guidance only and double-check the value of resistors installed in the amp. Replace like for like.
  • After doing these upgrades/changes the T3 emitter voltage is about 60mV (schematics look for 16mV)
  • TLC271 output on schematics is looking for -111v but I am getting -20mV and - 5mV here. This is normal and fine, please read the explanation by @Rupopulles in the comments below.
As all other voltages match the schematic values and the fact that I have 0.1mV dc on the speaker terminals I have assumed everything is ok. Plus the amp is dead silent even at full volume, no hiss, no hum, even when I put my ear to speakers I can't hear a thing.

All in all, I am still in shock by how good this amp sounds, I am hearing instruments in the songs, which I didn't even know existed before. Now I am wondering if my crappy speakers sound so good with it, how would it sound with decent quality speakers. Looks like it's about time to DIY a 2-way speaker system. This is it, folks, I thought I might share my results just in case it might help anyone else here. Happy DIYing and thanks to you all who contribute to the forums, it helps the likes of me (Civil Engineer by profession but with a DIY audio bug).
1.jpeg

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Magnetic Reed Switch. Identifying original state

Hi, vintage inquiry here...

Magnetic Reed Switches:
Single Pole, Double Throw.

The common lead toggles between two contacts:
Normally Open (N.O.) and Normally Closed (N.C., longer lead).


image example only
2.jpg

On the dual throw part of the above magnetic reed switch;
The through metal leg is Normally Open
The compound metal leg is Normally Closed
Common contact, the switcher (out of pic)

IF this corresponds to the broken one in the image below it would mean that the long lead would be N.C. and the shorter lead would be N.O.

This is the one to identify-
a.jpg
b.jpg


Is there a standard by which the N.C and N.O. are attributed to a length of leg?
E.G. Lytic Capacitors have the long leg to identify positive.


Coil houses two Magnetic Reed Switches mounted symmetrically. Both failed, one removed, shown below-
Relay for two  Magnetic Reed Switches .jpg



This is the circuit that the broken switch was removed from-
1.jpg



BCY70
BC107

100µF

"BQ5" confusion about pin 1

I'm inspecting the pins on an actual 8BQ5 tube, the data sheet says that pins 1, 6 and 8 are not connected. Looking at pins 6 and 8 it obvious that those pins go nowhere within the tube, I can clip those terminals off my tube socket. However, that's not the case for pin 1, pin 1 is connected to one of a pair of similar uprights. The other upright in that pair (that looks like the one connected to pin 1) is connected to pin 2 the grid! What is going on here? Is pin 1 really perhaps an internal shieled of some kind? even though the data sheet says it is not connected? If it's a shield should I ground pin 1?

1) NC (or is it?)
2) Grid
3) Cathode
4,5) Filament
6) NC
7) Plate
8) NC
9) Screen

https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/8/8BQ5.pdf

DIY hFE tester with 1A Ic

I have built myself a simple hFE tester with a somewhat elevated collector current, compared to the usual suspects (Multimeter, Peak DCA75, etc. running only a couple milliamps). It is basically just a proof of concept for a more elaborate kind of curve tracer that's still in the making, and not a complete "DIY kit", but I thought I'd share it anyhow. It is not difficult to build, but you'll have to be able to flash an AVR microcontroller. Feel free to hit me up if I can be of any help.

Operation is really simple: put in one or two DUTs (it will hande NPN and PNP at the same time), push the button, and read the result. Easy.

Under the hood, the tester will pull a current of 1024mA (adjustable for calibration) through the emitter for roughly 50µs, sample the voltage drop over a 16 Ohm base resistor (adjustable to trim out tolerances), calculate the resulting hFE and finally display it. The short duration of the current pulse will make sure that the DUT doesn't heat up during testing and thus result in a stable and repeatable result on the display. In fact I can mash the button a dozen times in quick succession and the result will only be off by a single ADC count occasionally, but most of the time it will be spot on. Of course the precision and resolution of the AVR-internal ADC and Vref are limited, and the calculation does not compensate for the base current (so technically it is 1024mA Ie and not Ic), but for picking the best devices from a stash of output transistors it should be good enough.

hfe-tester.png


This is what the operation looks like on the scope. The yellow trace is merely a debug output and something for the scope to trigger on. The first blip shows when the current source is activated for 30µs. On the second blip the CCS gets deactivated and the acquisition of the ADC is started - Sample and Hold takes place just a couple of µs after this, but the ADC conversion takes all the time until the third blip. The cyan trace shows the emitter voltage. As you can see it takes about 15µs after switching on the current source until anything happens there, and the current will keep flowing for another ~30µs after the CCS has been disabled. No need to keep the current active through the full acquisition cycle and cause additional dissipation in the DUT!


schem.png

The schematic. Nothing overly special here, all jellybean parts. The TL431 with its 2.5V was deliberately chosen as the Vref for the current sources. Since that voltage sits close to the rails, the input common mode range of the opamp has to be up for the task. Using something <=100mV here would have necessitated the use of a rail-to-rail opamp. While the TL074 is actually up for this job on the positive rail only, I'd have to use something like an LM324 for the negative rail. I wanted to make do with a single quad opamp from the parts bin though, so I chose the higher Vref for its ubiquity in case of the 431 and it being safely inside the CM range of pretty much any opamp you might throw at it. A noteworthy (probable) downside is, that the Vgs-on of the used power MOSFETs has to be greater than these 2.5V, or else the CCS won't fully turn off. Fortunately most of the jellybean power MOSFETs apply here, so don't use any fancy logic-level parts.
There are two sets of four matched 10k resistors. I am not sure if you can get away with some randomly chosen 1% parts here and how severely that would affect precision; I have matched mine to be within 10 Ohms each. The whole circuit around the diff-amps might even be simplified, but originally I had intended to use some other voltage than ground to reference them to. That didn't work out as intended though, so I left it that way.


IMG_20250608_120051.jpg
IMG_20250614_174236.jpg
IMG_20250614_183501.jpg

Some photos of my device. Got a little cramped inside the case, but everything fit in. The transformer has two 9V secondaries and existed for half an eternity in my parts bin. The circuit was actually tailored around this thing, exploiting the fact that the raw rectified DC sits somewhere around 14V and thus is safe to use without any further regulator on the analog part (5V for the µC being mandatory of course). This limits the Vce to that same ~14V; increasing it would have made the whole circuit much more complicated. The transformer doesn't have to supply lots of current, as there's no sustained high current demand from the tester.

The ZIP file contains the controller source code, written in assembler, and the compiled HEX file ready to flash. Again, if you want to build this and need any help or advice, feel free to ask me.

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Intro from netsullivc - bottles and bytes

Hi there from netsullivc Clay Sullivan) from far of remote western australia. Qualified, trained and worked professionally as an electrical technical engineer then moved into commerce. Have worked on everything from early digital (punch cards), 8086 design, industrial a/d and down the track, since retrained and worked in commerce.
Came here as would like to get the same quality sound out of my growing digital collection as have been getting from heavily modified RP6 and Bottlehead crackatwoa without being nailed by the exhorbant premium hifi shop prices! Have seen lots of great projects and mods and looking for a plan!!!!

New member from Denmark

Hello everybody!

I will make a short introduction of myself.
I am 44 years old and live in Denmark. II am very interested in hi-fi and have been for some years now (30+ years). I have owned many different off-the-shelf hi-fi components during these years.
When I was a 18-25 years old I made some Car Audio subwoofers, with various success! (I did not actually know anything about the theory and calculations behind DIY speaker buling)

I have always been very fascinated by DIY high-end speaker buliding, but untill now I have not "thrown" myself into it for real - but now I have finally started building more serious Hi-Fi.

I hope I can contribute in a constructive way to this forum, and in the meantime learn a lot from all the experts.

Best regards,
Rune
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For Sale 2 x 200 pieces ONsemi complementary VAS/Driver 2SC3902T 2SA1507T in unopened original bag from mouser.com

SOLD!

Another 2 bags are available at ebay if you need those

----------------------------------------------------


Have 2 bags original ONsemi 2SC3902T (200pcs) and 2SA1507T (200pcs) to sell.

Send me your offer for all 400 pcs by pm when it is minimum 130 EUR without shipping. (That's what I have payed for)

Parts are comparable to Toshiba TTC004B, TTA004B but have better SOA

Have fun, Toni

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Aikido Noval PCB (or Gerber) Source

Folks:

Does anyone know of a source for Aikido Noval pcbs aside from Glassware? Glassware has been out of those boards for months, and my many emails to Mr. Broskie (all with some variation of “Tube” in the subject line) have all gone unanswered. I have the Gerbers for the Octal variant but would prefer to build a Noval Aikido. If the Gerbers are available, I would happily have boards made.

Thanks in advance!

Regards,
Scott

What's wrong with the kiss, boy?

What's wrong with the kiss,boy ? ........ or - How I gained a gain ,little before Lee De Forest and little after Papa

lookie : Iron Pre | Zen Mod Blog

I already posted that link in few places here , but as it seems ,few Greedy Boyz are greedy for more info

cheap and clean way of having 6db (or little more ,with different gain device)

it's already everything written in that blog post , but to recapitulate :
-pot , then buffer of your choice , then 600:600 xformer connected as autoformer , voila! -there is 6db gain

if approach was good eons ago , when microfarrads and active gain devices were much more expensive than chunk of copper and iron,if approach is good for numerous mic input stages , if approach is good for F6 and especially M2 (buffer-autoformer-buffer) , it must be god for line stage too.

and yes , with 1+1 autoformer , Rout is four times Rout of buffer itself

xformers : Edcor have few , Jensen , Sowter, Lundahl etc.............

-do not expect that more expensive ones are necessary better sounding,
-do not expect maximum verity from buffer if you not use decent (shunt , my poison) reg.
-you can go wild and make your own autoformer , equipped with 24 taps , so skip pot on input and use autoformer at output, as volume attenuator and gain device ,as one device
-or you can make it this way - buffer -commercial AVC (200$ Slagle?)-output autoformer
-or you can go wild and connect commercial AVC to appropriate tap , as output autoformer and have 6db gain ...... that would be buffer -commercial AVC connected on proper tap

now I'm working on balanced Iron Pre ..... will post that soon too

edit on 11.10.2020. : last files for SE and Bal iteration are in posts #1149 and #1150

A Revolutionary Pivoting Tangential Tone Arm



Hello All,​
I wanted to post photographs and text together in this new thread but my nice Sigma digital camera stopped working and I had to switch to a canon digital Elph borrowed from a friend. I did not want to delay the thread and I will post photographs the day after tomorrow at the latest.​
Sincerely,​
Ralf​





TONE ARM 4, MODEL 7​
The Inception​
It all started in the mid 1970s, when I worked as a mechanical designer for Scully Recording Instruments Co. in Bridgeport, Connecticut. They manufactured professional tape recorders and of course the Scully Lathe. They were located in the old Underwood Building on Bunnell Street. The Engineering department and the machine shop were upstairs and on the downstairs floor there was a demo room with a Scully 100, 2 inch, 24 track tape recorder and two JBL wooden horn speakers.

During my lunch break, when there were no customers, I would go down to the demo room, eat my sandwich, and listen to whatever was on the 2 inch tape on that particular day. The experience of listening to that professional sound equipment was overwhelming. It started me on the path of designing my geometrically perfect tone arm. My co-workers all had an interest in music in one way or another. Some played musical instruments and one was a part-time recording engineer. I played acoustic guitar and sang folk and country music.

Upon the advice of my co-workers I purchased a Thorens TD-124 turntable and a separate SME 3009/S2 improved tone arm. I started to purchase LPs and soon realized that a pivoting tone arm could not faithfully reproduce music the way it was recorded.

Being fascinated by all things mechanical, I set out to design my own pivoting tangentially tracking tone arm. Although my hat is off to the designers of tone arms like the Rabco and the Goldmund, I did not like the fact that those tone arms occupied so much space on a turntable. I also did not like the various pivoting tangential tone arms like the Garrand Zero 100 because they still skated and had tracking errors. Being a perfectionist, I could not understand why all the talented tone arm designers would stop short of zero tracking error and zero skating force designs.

This thread does not concern air-bearing and Souther style tone arms which are mostly perfect.

I always liked the classical appearance of pivoting tone arms, so I concentrated on them. I designed, built and patented my first tone arm in the early 1980s, and I would have continued if it were not for the fact that CDs came on the market. It wasn’t until 2009 that I found out that vinyl LPs had made a come-back. By this time, however, I owned a CAD program, had built a shop and purchased an almost new Bridgeport vertical milling machine.

By 2010 I had redesigned my original 1980s tone arm by moving its tracks and the carriage into the base underneath the tone arm. It required an active servo and was featured in a thread on the DIY website. In 2012 I improved the tone arm by inventing the “FLOATING HEAD-SHELL” which is shown as the third item in the group picture. Like the 2010 tone arm, it also required an active servo. Not knowing electronic design, I listened to LPs without the necessary servo by nudging the tone arm’s carriage along its track every 30 seconds or so. That became possible, because I separated the head-shell from the tone arm proper. Not knowing anyone who could design the servo circuitry for me, I kept making mechanical improvements until in 2015 I invented the “OFFSET HEAD-SHELL CRADLE”.

Then in 2016 I changed my design from a carriage rolling on a track to a swing arm to support the tone arm. Of course many inventors before me discovered that a swinging support arm is far superior to a rolling carriage. Then, early in 2017 a kind gentleman whom I met on the internet, designed the servo circuitry for me. I transferred that circuit to a printed circuit board and showed it to the public at the Rocky Mountain Audio Fest (RMAF) in October 2017, in Denver, Colorado. The transition to the swing arm reduced friction to the point where the tone arm started to float across the LP purely from the drag force between the LP and the stylus. The servo has become a “passive” servo and only controls the variations in the drag force. Some of the servo components were visible when looking down on the tone arm, which I did not like, and in late 2017 I moved those components to the underside of what I call the tone arm shelf. That way the tone arm would retain its classic appearance and it would make it harder for intellectual property thieves to steal my invention. That being said, anyone who wants to build a copy of my tone arm is free to do so, as long as it’s not for sale to others.

My original 2017 servo’s printed circuit board (PCB) utilized “through-hole” components. In 2018 I redesigned the PCB to utilize “surface mount devices”.

To summarize, I have invented a pivoting, tangentially tracking tone arm with a “FLOATING HEAD-SHELL” carried by an “OFFSET TONE ARM CRADLE”. Please note, that the HEAD-SHELL and CRADLE are NOT offset to reduce tracking error, as in a conventional pivoting tone arm. The offset cradle serves a new and different purpose.

I have a complete set of 3D solid model CAD files and paper drawings for my tone arm. I also have a number of simple but precise aluminum fixtures that I have made.

Now, after several years of machining, testing and experimenting, I am finally able to listen to my favorite music played back with a tone arm of my own design. That experience cannot be described and those of you who have designed and built your own audio equipment know what I am talking about. I have kept my modest collection of 250 LPs, which I purchased in the 1970s and 1980s in almost new condition and recently, a lady friend of mine gave me around 35 boxed sets of LPs that had belonged to her deceased son. There is enough music there to last for the rest of my life.

I hope that the members of the DIY website will forgive me for not making public all the design features of my tone arm, because I want to make it difficult for the copy-cats to profit from my invention.


And, last but not least, I would like to find a manufacturer to make and sell my tone arm.



Please watch for 14 photographs in my next post. I promise, you will be amazed.


Sincerely,


Ralf

GB for Baby Huey PCB

Dear Antonio, Dear Nikos, and all others,

Thanks for your feedback, sorry for not answering faster but I have been quite busy recently... I am please to see that everybody received the PCB and like it, I am sure you will also like the sound, I am still trying to understand how to use a sound card to make some audio measurement, but as I say I don't have enough time now 😡

I have received several demand for more PCB's, even one person ask me if I could make a group buy but I have never done that and I don't know how to do that ? However, I could perhaps ask the PCB shop (EuroCircuits) to make more boards if there is enough interest. You will have an idea how the PCB look in the attached manufacturer file. If you are interested just send me a PM and I will see how many pieces could be built, for information the cost of the PCB for the previous batch of 10 pieces was 20 € per channel, 40 € for a stereo amplifier. Don't worry if you didn't get a quick feedback, I am not always on line, I do that for fun and I am please to help others as I have been supported in my project, but it take a lot of time 🙂

Best regards,

Marc

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220V current from where?

while I was doing some tests I discovered that with the amplifier off, but with the power outlet at 220V, I repeat everything off, I find myself having a contact/impulse signal at the crossover wires/at the speaker connector plugs. if I unplug the 220V plug and after 15/20 seconds, time for the capacitors to discharge, the signal disappears. this is serious, there is a current input that shouldn't be there, right?

this Amplifier

How much power can I get with this transfomer for my amplifier? It's rated 28 0 28 1.3A

Guys

I have this transfomer ,, I want to use it with my transistor amplifier c5198 A1941 or c5200 a1943

My transfomer is 28 0 28 1.3A =72.8VA

My question is ..is that 72 watts or VA

If it's VA then we have to multiply it by 0.8 and then we get 57.6w which is usable power

Then class AB efficiency is only 50 to 70%

Let's assume 65% then we get 37w

Am I right with the calculation?

Then wat if I'll be using 24 0 24 5A transfoma how much power can I get with one channel (mono) or stereo or stereo and one extra channel for bass pls help

Stereo Amp Full Range Sch by Mr. Iwan Kamil

I want to share the amplifier schematic designed by Mr. Iwan Kamil. Hopefully, you like it 🙏.
According to Mr. Iwan Kamil, this schematic shows a "Stereo Amp Full Range 80 Hz—5.5 KHz" equipped with a bandpass and bias control set. Those who follow Mr. Iwan Kamil on social media (Facebook) must be familiar with the functions of these components. See the schematic in pdf no. 1.
Maybe some people think that this schematic is simple, just an ordinary OCL. However, for me, this schematic is very authentic. Each circuit has its own uniqueness. Please share with your friends to be creative with this schematic.
For the op-amp supply, you can refer to Mr. Iwan Kamil's tutorial on "Super Low Noise DC Supply" or use the references I have attached. see picture No. 5.
For capacitors C1 and C3, it is better to use tantalum or other types of good quality so that the signal is more linear. Resistors R15, R16, R27, and R28 can be replaced with 220 Ohm if using a 24 VAC CT supply.
Let's use this group as a place to discuss and share knowledge about DIY Audio.
Thank you.

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Intro

I am Sven and I have been modifying an ATC SCM 20 SL loudspeaker that I bought 1990 with a Mundorf AMT tweeter and better cabling and Xover parts. This was a satisfying and fun endeavour. The ATC has now been retired and replaced with a Qualio IQ. Now, I plan some equivalent modifications. Apparently, there is already a discussion about the Qualio IQ which I plan to join and I was hoping for some guidance.

Sealed vs. ported enclosure midwoofer SQ!

I suspect this topic is covered dozens of times, but I couldn't find the answer I'm looking for.

So I have a speaker design that, in any case, woofers will be crossed to a horn around 800 Hz. This is constant. I'm either gonna use a single Faital 12RS430 in a 70L ported box and have decent F3 and 800 Hz covered, or I will use a woofer like Fostex FW 305 in a sealed box and use a second woofer starting from 100 Hz to the low end.

My question is about the quality of this 100-800 Hz. Which one might sound better? More resolution. The goal is not higher SPL, just more mid/low-mid clarity. Using a low Mms midwoofer vs. a heavier woofer (although Faital's Bl/√RE is higher...). If you have any woofer suggestions that can beat the FW305 in an even smaller box, please don't hesitate.


Thanks for the answers in advance!

2 Way SB Acoustics, initial feedback

New summer, new build plan: a small 2 way (to be complemented with a subwoofer later). Any input welcome before I start buying parts :-D

Goals:
  • Small / small-ish
  • Low to medium SPL (not near field)
  • Detailed mid and high frequencies
  • Slow bass roll off @ ~80 hz (for sub integration later)
These are the drivers I'm looking at:
  • Tweeter: SB Acoustics SB26CDC, 4 ohms
  • Woofer: SB Acoustics SB15MFC30, 4 ohms
With:
  • Passive radiator: SB Acoustics 15FSCR
A 12 liter box tuned at 44.47 Hz, according to WinISD:

winisd.png


The cone excursion for SB15MFC30 at 50w is problematic <100 Hz, but then the goal is not to push them, and also complement with a sub asap.

What do you guys think? I'm a n00b at crossover design, but it looks to me like they should be fairly easy to integrate?

I'm attaching FRD and ZMA from specs (extracted with FPGraphTracer) and the part specs.

Attachments

Need pair of original or aftermarket tube cages

Howdy y’all!
I’ve still been quite unsuccessful in finding a pair of Tube cages for my Audio Research VM- 220 monoblock amps. I guess I’ll have 2 go to the next option which is to have a pair of aftermarket made cages or have them custom- made. Is there anyone out there who does this? If so, please drop me a message at your earliest convenience.
Thanks and good luck in all of your searches as well.🙏🏻

DIY Ground Loop Isolator 1:1, help

Thinking of building my own HiFi RCA stereo ground loop isolator with 1:1 ratio for transformers.

Trying to mimic Supra AGS-10k
Frequence intervall: 15 Hz - 22 kHz
In- and Out Impedance: 10 kOhm
Ratio: 1:1

Any suggesstions for this DIY project?

That Supra AGS-10k costs around 60 euro so if i can build a similiar cheaper im happy. If not im buying it.

Use for reciever sub preamp and subwoofer amp.
Having issues with noises from PC via HDMI and antenna cable tv to antenna socket/wall. Humming in subwoofer.

Which 3way kit from Troels Discovery-3WC-10 or Faital-10-430

Hey!

I've read everything I could read on this, I've counted the money, I've checked the space I have available. So it's down to these two. Both follow the same design concepts, both cost roughly the same money.

Which should I build and why? I like to hear EVERYTHING when I listen rather quietly. I like to feel the low end. Or should I look elsewhere for the same amount of money? Like Discovery-18W-mkII and an active sub?

RIght now I'm using the Seas 3WC mk 1 as my main setup. I want everything to sound better than that 🙂 I have a few pairs of other speakers as well, I'm really addicted to COAXes.

Brian Wilson, Beach Boys founder RIP

Certainly the seminal figure of my era:

I can remember their appearance on the Ed Sullivan show. Brian's music reverberated on the AM radios at the swimming pool of my teen summers.

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/06/11/arts/music/brian-wilson-dead.html

Brian Wilson, who as the leader and chief songwriter of the Beach Boys became rock’s poet laureate of surf-and-sun innocence, but also an embodiment of damaged genius through his struggles with mental illness and drugs, has died. He was 82.

His family announced the death on Instagram but did not say where or when he died, or state a cause. In early 2024, after the death of his wife, Melinda Wilson, business representatives for Mr. Wilson were granted a conservatorship by a California state judge, after they asserted that he had “a major neurocognitive disorder” and had been diagnosed with dementia.

On mid-1960s hits like “Surfin’ U.S.A.,” “California Girls” and “Fun, Fun, Fun,” the Beach Boys created a musical counterpart to the myth of Southern California as paradise — a soundtrack of cheerful harmonies and a boogie beat to accompany a lifestyle of youthful leisure. Cars, sex and rolling waves were the only cares.

That vision, manifested in Mr. Wilson’s crystalline vocal arrangements, helped make the Beach Boys the defining American band of the era. During its clean-cut heyday of 1962 to 1966, the group landed 13 singles in the Billboard Top 10. Three of them went to No. 1: “I Get Around,” “Help Me, Rhonda” and “Good Vibrations.”

At the same time, the round-faced, soft-spoken Mr. Wilson — who didn’t surf — became one of pop’s most gifted and idiosyncratic studio auteurs, crafting complex and innovative productions that awed his peers.

“That ear,” Bob Dylan once remarked. “I mean, Jesus, he’s got to will that to the Smithsonian.”

Mr. Wilson’s masterpiece was the 1966 album “Pet Sounds,” a wistful song cycle that he directed in elaborate recording sessions, blending the sound of a rock band with classical instrumentation and oddities like the Electro-Theremin, whose otherworldly whistle Mr. Wilson would use again on “Good Vibrations.”

“Pet Sounds” was a commercial disappointment upon its release, but the technical sophistication and melancholic depth of tracks like “God Only Knows” and “I Just Wasn’t Made for These Times” eventually led critics and fellow musicians to honor it as an epochal achievement. In both 2003 and 2020, Rolling Stone ranked “Pet Sounds” No. 2 on its list of the greatest albums of all time. (No. 1 was the Beatles’ “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band” in 2003, Marvin Gaye’s “What’s Going On” in 2020.)

“It was ‘Pet Sounds’ that blew me out of the water,” Paul McCartney once said. “I figure no one is educated musically ’til they’ve heard that album.”​


Hailed as a master hitmaker while in his early 20s, Mr. Wilson soon showed signs of instability. Some of his behavior, like placing his piano in a giant sandbox inside his Hollywood Hills home, might have seemed the foibles of a coddled celebrity.
Brian Wilson: 12 Essential Songs
June 11, 2025
But in following up “Pet Sounds,” he stumbled. Over months of sessions for an album he intended to call “Smile,” Mr. Wilson indulged his every eccentricity, no matter how expensive or fruitless, and his growing drug habit fueled paranoia and delusion. Recording a song called “Fire,” he outfitted studio musicians in toy firefighters’ helmets and placed a smoldering bucket in their midst. When he later learned that a nearby building had burned down at about the same time as that session, he scrapped the track, spooked by the thought that his studio “witchcraft” was responsible.

Abandoned by Mr. Wilson, “Smile” entered rock lore as a lost document of a brilliant but troubled mind. Mike Love, the Beach Boys vocalist and longtime foil of Mr. Wilson’s, called it “a whole album of Brian’s madness.” It remained unfinished for nearly 40 years.


“And how did you come up with so many hits? How did the Beach Boys do it?” “Well, we, we just kept plugging away, kept trying, and we went through a bad period. We fought through it, and then we jump onto a new one.” “It means, it just means that I’m an icon. An icon.” “I started out with, like, I think. Doo doo doo doo doo doo, California girls, you know? That’s how I wrote that. First with a bass line, then the chords, then the melody and then the lyrics after that.”


Brian Wilson, leader and chief songwriter of The Beach Boys, wrote several hits in the 1960s, a musical counterpart to the myth of Southern California as paradise.CreditCredit...Paul Natkin for The New York Times
“I had a helluva time getting through some of the frustrations that go along with being a successful record artist,” Mr. Wilson told The New York Times Magazine in 1988. “When I got out there with the Beach Boys, at first I was OK, because I was riding a wave, riding a crest. But then, later on, 10 years later, I got scared, and I got lost, and I was eating caramel sundaes for breakfast. I was all out of whack!”

After “Good Vibrations” in 1966, the band did not have another No. 1 single until “Kokomo” in 1988, which was made without Mr. Wilson’s involvement.

Mr. Wilson’s life story came to be portrayed as a struggle to escape from the yokes of two men: his abusive father and a controlling psychotherapist, Eugene Landy. Mr. Landy’s unorthodox methods, which included monitoring Mr. Wilson 24 hours a day and padlocking his refrigerator, were effective in nursing Mr. Wilson back to health during two periods of treatment in the 1970s and ’80s. Yet Mr. Landy also went into business with his patient, sharing copyrights with Mr. Wilson and taking writing credits on some of his songs.
Image

Mr. Wilson in 1977 with Eugene Landy, his psychotherapist. Mr. Wilson’s life story came to be portrayed as a struggle to escape from the yokes of two men: his abusive father, Murry, and Mr. Landy.Credit...Mark Sullivan/Contour by Getty Images
Mr. Landy eventually came under the scrutiny of the California authorities and surrendered his license. After an intervention by Mr. Wilson’s family, a court order also blocked Mr. Landy from contact with Mr. Wilson.

Mr. Wilson spoke openly about his struggles with mental illness, including his experience with schizoaffective disorder, a condition characterized by hallucinations and delusions. The condition led to the conservatorship granted to his business associates in early 2024.

Starting in the late 1990s, Mr. Wilson undertook a series of concert tours that celebrated his Beach Boys work as a treasure of American song. Onstage, he often sat at the piano with a blank expression, and in public statements he could seem as guileless as one of his melodies.

How The Times decides who gets an obituary. There is no formula, scoring system or checklist in determining the news value of a life. We investigate, research and ask around before settling on our subjects. If you know of someone who might be a candidate for a Times obituary, please suggest it here.

Learn more about our process.
At the Beach Boys’ Rock & Roll Hall of Fame induction in 1988, he described his ambitions: “I wanted to write joyful music that would make other people feel good.”

Brian Douglas Wilson was born on June 20, 1942, in Inglewood, Calif., to Murry and Audree (Korthof) Wilson. His father was a heavy-machinery salesman who had collected a handful of credits as a frustrated songwriter. His mother, a homemaker, kept the Beach Boys’ books in the early days of the band.

The family moved to Hawthorne, another working-class corner of Los Angeles County, when Brian was a toddler, and had two more boys, Dennis and Carl.

From a young age, Brian was almost completely deaf in his right ear. He gave various explanations for the condition, citing a blow from a neighborhood boy or, in some tellings, his father.

Mr. Wilson in Los Angeles in 1965, at the height of his Beach Boys fame. Credit...via Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
As a teenager, Brian was a fan of Chuck Berry’s rock ’n’ roll but was especially entranced by the close, melting harmonies of the jazz-influenced vocal group the Four Freshmen; he led his brothers in careful recreations of their songs.

By 1961, the three Wilson boys were playing rock music with Mr. Love, a cousin, and a schoolmate of Brian’s, Al Jardine. In the band’s most familiar early lineup, Brian played bass, Dennis was on the drums, Carl and Mr. Jardine played guitar, and they all sang.

Around that time, Dennis began surfing and delighted in the fashion, trendy lingo and carefree lifestyle that went along with it. One day he told Brian and Mr. Love, “You guys ought to write a song about surfing.”

They did, and that fall, after a rehearsal while the Wilsons’ parents were out of town, the group recorded its first song, “Surfin.’” The young men called themselves the Pendletones, after a type of flannel shirt popular among surfers. When they received the finished record, released by a small local label, Candix, they discovered that they had been renamed the Beach Boys.

“Surfin’” was a crude blueprint for what would become the Beach Boys’ signature sound: a simple lead vocal line (sung by Mr. Love) accompanied by sunny harmonizing, doo-wop-style scatting and a rudimentary rock beat. To that point the surf music fad had primarily involved guitar instrumentals, but by adding vocals the Beach Boys created a wave rider’s credo:

Surfing is the only life, the only way for me
Now come on pretty baby and surf with me
Though Mr. Wilson embraced the youthful freedom that surfing represented, he never took to the sport. “I tried it once and got conked on the head with the board,” he once said.

Image

The Beach Boys in 1964. From left, Al Jardine, Mike Love, Dennis Wilson, Brian Wilson and Carl Wilson. Credit...RB/Redferns, via Getty Images
Signed by Capitol Records in 1962, the group was prolific from the start, releasing 10 studio LPs through 1965. With short hair, toothy smiles and matching striped shirts, the young men cut a wholesome image. Their harmonies, shared by all the members, were vivacious and pristine.

Mr. Wilson became the band’s primary producer and songwriter, and his sophistication soon shone through. “Surfer Girl,” a lilting, harmony-drenched ballad that went to No. 7 in 1963, was perhaps the first pop hit written, arranged, produced and sung by the same person.

Mr. Wilson’s first No. 1, however, came as a writer of Jan and Dean’s song “Surf City” (1963). In a sign of conflicts to come, Murry Wilson, who managed the Beach Boys and controlled the band’s songwriting copyrights, was furious that Brian had given a valuable hit to another act.

Other problems surfaced. “Surfin’ U.S.A.” resembled Chuck Berry’s “Sweet Little Sixteen” a bit too closely, so Berry’s name was added to the credits, and his publisher acquired the song’s copyright.

In December 1964, Mr. Wilson married Marilyn Rovell, who sang in a girl group called the Honeys. A few weeks later, just before Christmas, he had a panic attack on a flight to a Beach Boys engagement in Houston and decided to quit touring to concentrate on songwriting and recording.

That same year, the group fired Murry as manager. He responded by promoting a Beach Boys copycat group, the Sunrays, which quickly flamed out.

As Mr. Wilson would recount, his father had long tormented him physically and emotionally. In one form of punishment that Mr. Wilson described many times, his father would remove his glass eye and force his terrified son to stare into the empty socket.

“My dad was violent,” Mr. Wilson wrote in a 2016 memoir, “I Am Brian Wilson,” written with Ben Greenman. “He was cruel.”

Freed from his father’s control and the Beach Boys’ touring demands, Mr. Wilson immersed himself in the studio. For a time, he embodied the role of a visionary working within the confines of commercial pop, much like the producer Phil Spector, Mr. Wilson’s hero.
Image
The band in performance, wearing identical striped shirts.

The Beach Boys performed on “The Ed Sullivan Show” in September 1964.Credit...CBS Photo Archives, via Getty Images
“Pet Sounds,” released in May 1966, elevated the Beach Boys’ music to a level far above anything they had created before. With the rest of the group on the road, Mr. Wilson made the album primarily with studio musicians, and he employed a broad sonic palette: French horns, strings, timpani and playful sound effects like bicycle bells, all in addition to the standard rock complement of guitar, bass and drums.

Songs like “Wouldn’t It Be Nice” and “Caroline, No” explored themes of lost innocence and the transition to adulthood. Most were written with Tony Asher, a young lyricist and jingle writer whom Mr. Wilson had recently met. Mr. Wilson took painstaking care with every detail of the recording, including lushly arranged stacks of vocal harmonies, which for the other Beach Boys often meant an excruciating number of takes. Mr. Love called him “the Stalin of the studio,” only half in jest.

Upon release, the album stalled at No. 10, a relative dud by Beach Boys standards. By then, however, Mr. Wilson was already working on his next gem: the single “Good Vibrations.”

Spliced together from months of sessions across four studios — according to Mr. Love, the group recorded 25 to 30 vocal overdubs for a segment that lasted just five seconds — “Good Vibrations” was a catchy and sonically adventurous invocation of peppy West Coast spirituality. Released in October 1966, the song became an indelible radio hit, but it was Mr. Wilson’s last moment at the vanguard of pop.

In Thrall​

“Smile,” Mr. Wilson’s next album project, which he made with another songwriting collaborator, Van Dyke Parks, was intended to be his supreme achievement. Mr. Wilson hyped it at the time as “a teenage symphony to God.”

Yet the album collapsed after more than 80 sessions in 1966 and 1967. To meet their obligations to Capitol, the Beach Boys quickly assembled two albums in late 1967 — “Smiley Smile,” a scaled-down version of Mr. Wilson’s opus, and “Wild Honey” — which had little impact.

For years thereafter, the group was adrift. The Beach Boys were caught between the new vogues of heavy rock and folk-influenced singer-songwriters, and their albums sold modestly at best. Mr. Wilson was withdrawn, spending long stretches in bed and obsessively listening to old records like the Ronettes’ “Be My Baby,” Phil Spector’s masterpiece from 1963.

Mr. Wilson’s drug use, which had begun during happier times for the band — the buoyant 1965 hit “California Girls,” he said, was written after an acid trip — had grown out of control, stunting his creativity. “I lost interest in writing songs,” Mr. Wilson once told Rolling Stone. “I lost the inspiration. I was too concerned with getting drugs to write songs.”

Some Beach Boys albums, like “Surf’s Up” (1971) and “Holland” (1973), released by the band’s new label, Reprise, still had a spark of invention.

But the band changed course after Capitol issued “Endless Summer” (1974), a compilation of the group’s early hits, which became the Beach Boys’ second No. 1 album and their first in a decade. Although the band’s live shows had long been packed with old numbers, its next studio album, “15 Big Ones” (1976) — promoted heavily as Mr. Wilson’s

Calling all Calgarians - Get-Together 2025

Calling all Calgarians!

It seems we have a bit of a diyAudio continent in Cow Town. Notably, @bxt2008, @leadbelly, @kirks, and likely others. In a recent thread I floated the idea of a get-together over a few pints at some point and there seemed to be some interest.

So how about this: We meet at Two Pillars Brewery (910 Centre ST N) at 8pm on Wednesday January 15, 2025. The idea is just to put a face to the user ID and to chat/BS about all things audio.

Please respond below by January 7 if you plan to make it. If it turns out we'll be more than Two Pillars can accommodate I'll find a larger venue that's reasonably central.

Hope to see you at Two Pillars!

Tom
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CamillaDSP - Cross-platform IIR and FIR engine for crossovers, room correction etc

I would like to announce CamillaDSP, a general purpose tool for routing and filtering sound. It can be used for example for building crossovers for active speakers, or for performing room correction.

You can find the source code here: GitHub - HEnquist/camilladsp

The documentation for all published versions can be found here: CamillaDSP

There is a second repository for configuration help here: GitHub - HEnquist/camilladsp-config: Help for setting up CamillaDSP, example config files etc

Quick summary
  • For Linux, macOS and Windows
  • Written in Rust
  • IIR filters (BiQuad)
  • FIR filters (Convolution via FFT)
  • Built-in sample rate converter
  • Filters can be chained freely
  • Flexible routing
  • Alsa, PulseAudio, Wasapi, CoreAudio, File and stdio input/output
  • Simple YAML configuration
  • All calculations done with 64-bit floats

I have been using BruteFIR for crossovers for quite some time, but there were two main things I wanted to improve upon. Firstly BruteFIR only supports FIR filters, and I wanted the ability to also use BiQuad without having to make an overly complicated setup. Secondly when BruteFIR encounters a buffer underrun it always exits with a "broken pipe" error instead of just trying again. This can get somewhat annoying. I also thought that the BruteFIR configuration is unnessecarily complicated.
I have also been using the excellent tool EqualizerAPO that does all I want, but it's for Windows only.

When using Alsa for both input and output, CamillaDSP can work almost as a drop-in replacement for BruteFIR. I run a 2048 tap stereo 2-way crossover at 44.1kHz, and this consumes less than 2% of a single cpu core on my HTPC (dual core Intel Skylake).

To help with configuration CamillaDSP checks the configuration and tries to give helpful error messages when there is a problem. In addition there is a Python script to visualize the whole pipeline from a config file.

Sample output:
pipeline.png


To try it, download a pre-built binary for your system from the "Releases" page:. Click "Assets" to view the available files.

Instead of using a pre-built binary it can also be built from source. The "Cargo" tool makes this very easy as it will download and compile all dependencies automatically. See more instructions in the README.

For Sale Kevin Gilmore Dynalo MK2 Super Symmetry Parts Kit

Also known as the "MultiAmp" on the HeadCase forum where Kevin Gilmore hangs out, this is another project of mine that got shelved due to life happening.
The amp boards are completed, with the opamps and matched Bipolar transistor IC unpopulated(but included).
The GRLV PSU board has been mostly completed, with the missing parts included in the package. Power Transistors were not mounted as my original plan was to mount them to the side panel of a Galaxy Case, so proper heatsinks or mounting to a chassis is required(insulators included). A balanced headphone protector board is also part of the package, as well as various XLR connectors, parts for a Balanced to SE adapter, IEC power connector, and 25VA x 20 Volt Antec transformer.
Also included is a KG designed I2C controlled balanced relay volume control board, with software available on Head-Case
Please see the Thread on the Head-Case Diy Forum
$200 US plus shipping TBD depending on Speed and location.
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Rollover - A Decent Amplifier with JFET in and MOSFET out

Uses LSK189 for input.
Buy at mouser.com: https://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Linear-Integrated-Systems/LSK189-TO-92-3L-BK?qs=T%2BzbugeAwjjUrS49wFak%2Bw==
Uses ECX10N20 and ECX10P20 for output.
Buy for example at: https://gb.profusion.uk/uk/audio/transist/lateral-mosfets

The input JFET pair can be other JFET, too.
Bias in output is set to 300mA.
THD is 0.00020% with the LSK189.

Rollover LSK189_07.jpg

2-3in High Subwoofer Design Help

I'm building a subwoofer for the trunk of my Subaru Crosstrek.

I have 42.5in x 26in and would prefer the height be 2-4in. I'm having trouble with tuning of the box, as if the port is too wide the speakers go into over excursion, if they are thinner they easily go over 18m/s. I'm not sure how to model tapered waveguides or adding a flare in terms of port length. I'm a mech e but new to audio design, so joined here to learn as much as I could about complex analysis and subwoofer optimization.

I've tried sealed box, ported, 4th order (to basically act as a spring to reduce excursion, but I'm limited on tuning frequency because the back volume can't get any bigger without overexcursion), 6th order series and parallel, have played with 12in low profile sub, but don't know how to simulate downfiring and top must be encloseed as it will be the new trunk surface. The 12in is also pretty tall.

I'd be using an LX1300.1 with about 550W at a 2ohm load. Design shown is 6 Dayton Audio 2x7s. I'm trying to get low. I will have 2x 10in self powered el cheapos behind the driver and passenger seats, which will cover the 60-100hz range fine. That's what I did in the truck and it did the trick. I've never had low low bass and don't want to miss out on this opportunity with a brand new car.

I've attached a few pictures, but I've been through very many iterations, these are just some recent ones to show the process of building the subwoofer.

I'm also not opposed to passive radiators, but the only 2in or less ones are cheapo knockoffs with no TS parameters for excursion or moving mass or anything so I don't know how to begin that calculation.

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Taramps TS2000x4 confirm channel dependency

I’ve recently repaired this amp but I find an occurrence I want to confirm, IRFB5620 are the output and a cross of IRFB4227 was referred as sub, after installed they got hot and no drive waveform, I swapped to another working channel and still warmed. Nothing else was damaged in the amp just one bad output. It was when I purchased the IRFB5620 then the amp worked.
Another puzzling problem is whenever I pulled the output from any one channel, the adjoining channel won’t produce any waveform regardless of four “independent seeming” channels (that is 1 or 2 and 3 or 4). Therefore, if one channel goes bad there is no three channels (like class AB) even if you remove the damaged outputs and free up voltage rails.
Can someone explain?
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JBL Garage Speakers

Hello All,

Cleaning out my garage to make room for a treadmill and a place to roll around on a swiss ball.

There are boxes of mostly JBL drivers that need to go. I may sell some along the way.

For entertainment I am planning a pair of 1 to 2 cubic foot speakers attached to the storage loft above.

There are more than a few options, the speakers likely will be 2-way with 12" woofers plus Compression Drivers / wave guides attached.

In the storage boxes there are 2204H, 2206H and 2217H (a 14 inch driver). I am leaning towards the 2204H's, they model a little lower in frequency response.

For the CD's there are several options, I am liking the 2453 SL mounted with the Progressive Transition 6-1/2" X 12" 90 X 50 wave guides.

Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks DT

Inspired by the days of Zilch (RIP)
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Amp Camp Amp - ACA

:Popworm: Looky Here... Original article by Nelson Pass:
Amp Camp Amp #1
😀
______________________________________________________

Info for Amp Camp Kit (updated by Moderators)

Here's the ORIGINAL step by step photo build guide: ACA illustrated build guide

A new Build Guide for the V1.6 Two channel Chassis in the diyAudio Store.
Amp Camp Amp V1.6 Build Guide - diyAudio Guides

The small changes of the 1.8 version.All ACA’s that have 2 channels in one chassis can be converted to Version 1.8 which only requires buying a different rear panel switch and some re-wiring of the rear panel. Amp Camp Amp V1.8 Change Information - diyAudio Guides


The link below is to a Step by step build video by Patrick Norton on his TekThing website. He makes an error in cutting out the thermal insulator and leaving the backing on. Thebacking just peels off, no cutting required:
February 2016 Patreon Build Video: Amp Camp Amp Dual Monoblocks! - YouTube

See post #1453 for a tweak to the original V1.0 circuit boards. It’s not essential but should improve the sound. This tweak has been incorporated in subsequent versions (1b & 1.5, 1.6,1.8). if you have those circuit boards or kits it's already added to the board, and the part (R15) included in the kits

An ACA thread with lots of great ideas which may or may not improve the amp to your desires:
ACA amp with premium parts

Here’s a thread discussing the kits from the DiyAudio store for V1.6 and V1.8
Amp Camp Amp Kit 1.6/1.8

And here’s the link to the kits:
https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/kits/products/amp-camp-amp-kit?variant=7072933085218

Notched top plates in vintage gear?

Working on some vintage Jensen P15LL woofers/midrange 15" drivers and doing re-cones. They are designed for peak performance from ~50 - 3000 Hz. 40 Watts. Commonly found in Leslie speakers ~1955 - ~1964.

I've noticed that the top plate is thicker across the surface, but down in the gap it is notched back some. So the top plates are ~0.6" thick, but it is notched back so that the part closest to the voice coil windings is only 0.54" thick. As originally built, the voice coil is centered on this 0.54" height and not the overall thickness of the top plate.

See the attached drawing.

Is it common to have an area notched out like this in the gap? Does the thickness of the plate closest the windings dominate the magnetic field location?

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Hi there !

Hello everybody,

Very happy to join this forum !
I am a humble music enthousiast and have recently upgraded my hifi audio setup and i came to realise that my Denon PMA-560 is having sound quality issues. My quest in troubleshooting this issue led me on this great website and here among you.
Even though I have been dismounting electronic devices since I was a kid, I don't have a lot of knowledge in electronic circuits and/or components. I am hoping I will learn a few things by hanging out and asking questions on this forum. Hopefully I'll be able to help others in the future !
My english is pretty good but it isn't my mother tongue so I might do some mistakes, apologies in advance 🙂


Cédric from Switzerland

For Sale AN39- PSU Cap Multiplier - Hiraga le Monstre - Soft Start- DC Blocker- CRC PSU.

Only Boards.
AN39 board 1 pair
PSU Cap Multiplier 1 pair
Hiraga le Monstre Amp Smd 1 pair /Through hole 2 pairs
F5m amp board 2 pairs
Soft Start 3 pieces
DC Blocker 4 pieces
CRC PSU 5 pieces
All tested and constructed.
Pm.

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Folded Cascode CEN IV with fixed Rails

Exactly 11 years and 2250 posts after the original CEN IV, the simple circuit still have many fans and positive feedback.
But the difficulty of having to use floating power supplies remains.
Especially, if one is using 2 channel balanced mode outputs, 4 of these floating supplies are required.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...lution-of-a-minimalistic-iv-converter.195483/

The question has been -- is it possible to have at least similar performance but using fixed rails ?
In the original thread, the use of current sources between fixed rail and IV circuit has been discussed.
11 years later, with experience gained from the revised XCEN converter circuit, the puzzle has finally been solved.


220407 FC CEN IV Proto1 Top.jpg



So here you are. Happy Reading.


Patrick

.

Attachments

Limestone turntable, help needed with motor and drive

IMG_2314.jpg
Dears,
This is second (and last) blast from the past project that I will publish. Its from early 2000's when I was very much into doing different audio things.
Other of my old projects have no much difference from usually seen executions, so I will skip those.

As elementary school kid (in 1977), my older sister left me her BSR turntable system (in Yugoslavia than called Tosca) and some 50LP's, good stuff of the time, Leonard Cohen, Dylan, Cat Stevens, Janis Joplin, Roberta Flack, Jimmy Smith, some classic and so on... Anyway, I felt in love with LP's and HIFI forever, this still goes on.
Anyway, few friends (actually their parents) had Thorenses, Sondeks and Duals, , I always wanted proper turntable. By the time I made my own money, CD came into play and I bought one of the first Philips CD player.
Few years after I still wanted TT, bought one crappy example, throw it away and decided to make my own. Intention was not to make hi end piece, but to make vintage looking TT similar to those that I was wishing for:
This is the result:

Simple comparison between Hornresp and AKABAK. Beginner's mistake or?

Hello friends,

Please help me understand what I am doing wrong. I have tried to learn the programs Hornresp and AKBAK by building simple models of horn speakers in both programs and then comparing the results. I have discussed the results with Mr. Chatgpt because I cannot get the comparison right. I do not really know what to expect in terms of similarity between the results. I am not very knowledgeable in electronics or theoretical audio technology but I still think I understand that the sound pressure curves and impedance curves should be quite similar for simple models with these two programs. Mr. Chatgpt has been very helpful I think but "he" has not managed to figure out what I am doing wrong.
I have placed an infinite baffle in the same plane as the horn mouth to get a 2 x pi radiation angle. The speaker element is this 15-inch element:
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/BC/15DS115_8Ω

I think the impedance curves match quite well, at least the frequency of the first peak, but not quite the level (Hornresp: 4.4 Ohm@125Hz, AKABAK: 3.2 Ohm@128Hz). The second peak matches better in terms of level but worse in terms of frequency (Hornresp: 2.46 Ohm@284Hz, AKABAK: 2.2 Ohm@267Hz).

What bothers me the most is the difference in sound pressure for the two models. AKABAK has a first peak already at 54 Hz and sound pressure 74 dB. This peak does not exist in Hornresp which has its first peak at 125 Hz and 108 dB. The next peak in AKABAK is at 135 Hz and 68 dB. This does not match very well with Hornresp.

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Hello everyone who likes audio and video I have a small problem finding a service manual for the Vincent SV 233 amplifier, one channel stopped playin

Hello everyone who likes audio and video
I have a small problem finding a service manual for the Vincent SV 233 amplifier, one channel stopped playing and as I learned there are people here who own it, I would be very happy if someone could help me and send me the diagram, it would be a shame not to fix it
Thank you very much in advance

Active crossover for three way actively amplified speaker

I've got Carver TFM-15, TFM-25 and TFM-35 amps that I use for a three way actively amplified speaker consisting of:

Altec 811B horns
Eminence Delta pro12A for midbass
Dayton Audio 12" subs

I currently use a DBX 234XS crossover which works fine except there is solid state hiss heard in the horns due to the TFM-15 not having any markings on the front panel for the input level controls nor does it have pots with detents. So there's no easy way to ensure the controls are set the same way every time the system gets used to DJ with.

I would prefer an analog crossover, but if there's a DSP crossover that is good enough for actual HI-FI use I'd be interested in that as well. The crossover also needs to be low noise as well given the Altec horns are quite efficient.

Hello everyone. I'm Kosta

Using 2x ECC83S Instead of 6AN8 in Dynaco Mark III – Advice Needed

Hello everyone,

I'm currently building a Dynaco Mark III-style mono tube amplifier and I'm planning to replace the original 6AN8 driver tube with 2x ECC83S (12AX7) tubes for each channel. I understand this involves redesigning the driver and phase splitter stages to suit the dual-triode layout of the ECC83S.

My main question is:
Has anyone successfully implemented this conversion, and are there any confirmed, working schematic adaptations you could share?

I want to be absolutely sure before committing to this layout and buying tubes. Any practical experience, schematics, or advice on wiring, gain structure, or tonal results would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Gold mine of DI¥ audio tubes schematics from Japan

***** Gold mine of DI¥ audio tubes schematics from Japan *****

Lucky i was to see such extraordinary DIY projects archive with vacuum tubes i share this treasure with all forum members.
Infinite THANKS for hobby amateurs in Japan who patiently scan this MJ magazine articles over the years.
Every month we get new ones available on line in pdf format
lot's of OTL amplifiers , Sakuma San articles
Et cetera

Please enjoy & respect this precious library 🙂

click on direct download link Schematic Treasures: DIY tubes audio articles HOME

and menu and titles Google Translate version in English

どうもありがとうございます
Domo arigato gozaimasu

Phillips Cassette Player

Hi there,

I have a Phillips Cassette Player with a broken motor. I am looking for somewhere in the United States or Europe to get this fixed.

Type: EL 3302A/15G
Voltage: 7.5V
Frequency: 50/60 Hz
Manufacturer: Philips
Motor markings: WR 01 941


I believe that the motor I am looking for is a small DC motor, likely a 7.5V brushed type used to drive the capstan and reels.

Does anyone have any advice to where I can find one of these and/or get this fixed? I am located in California, but again, can send it anywhere.

Thank you.

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Testing of defaced FETs

Does anyone here want to help in trying to unmask the defaced FETs that you find in some amplifiers? The following is what you'd need for basic testing. Having this work distributed to a large number of techs could defray costs and tests of the same FETs by different techs could help confirm values.

A 12v power supply

A 2 ohm (other values would work but a standard 2 ohm would simplify) dummy load or current limiting resistor (25w or larger)

A way to accurately measure current (any multimeter capable of measuring 10 amps is good enough)

A standard multimeter to measure DCV.

Some form of heatsink to clamp the FET to during testing

Understanding Bessel array radiation patterns?

So using the 5x derivative as it’s the only one Keele thinks has a practical purpose……the two outermost drivers are the main energy drivers of the system with each unit representing one 1/4 wave spacing…….would that suggest that the overall dispersion pattern would be equal to that of the diameter of the same size cone?……let’s say the 5 combined distance is 8”…….are we now talking about the same dispersion characteristics of an 8” cone or point source?………

Swap new toroidal power transformers with 2x33V for 2x25V transformers

I would like to swap two brand new toroidal power transformers with epoxy filled center, each with 180 VA 2x32 V, for two new or nearly new transformers with 2x25 V -2x24 V to 2x27 V will also work. One with 500 VA will also be fine.
If higher-quality transformers are available, financial compensation is also possible.
And if you only want to get rid of suitable transformers, I'm interested.
Because of taxes, shipping costs, and so on, preferably from Tschömoney or the EU.

Thanks for looking

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Some Single-Battery Guitar Preamps

Single-Supply Preamps For Guitar

Here are six preamps for guitar using op-amps; each operated from a single 9V battery as the power supply, thus making them suitable for stomp-box applications. Sources for the diagrams are noted with the diagrams. The circuits are faithful to original diagrams but for minor changes, such as the adding of an input level control or the use of a pot in a negative feedback loop to provide the user with a gain control. However, while based on proven designs, these designs must still be considered experimental. Also, the diagrams originally posted had flaws, which were corrected according to advice from forum members here, who I thank for their help. The diagrams shown now are updated versions (but some may be updated again if needed).

1748362886140.png


The specified IC is the OPA2156 dual low-noise op-amp IC, but an original TI unit can be expensive and may take a long time for delivery. So, I have listed a number of pin-compatible substitutes at the end of this post, all of which will provide good results.

The next circuit features a Baxandall type of 2-band tone-control, followed by one with a Fender-style 2-band control, which works differently from the Baxandall-type, though both leave the mids fixed. For those who prefer three bands, all other circuits below involve 3-band Fender-style tone stacks.

1748362972891.png


Note the seemingly redundant Tone control at the output below. That is included to provide an additional means of shaping high-end response.

1748363046332.png


What follows next are the preamps with the 3-band tone-stacks having default Fender Bassman part-values.

1748363085578.png


Consider the difference in the way the input and output jacks are shown below. This would be a good way to do the foregoing circuits too, but I show this configuration only for the last two circuits. This one also has a fuzz circuit using diodes, providing clipping without having to overdrive op-amps. But if that is desired, an older dual JFET-input IC can be considered, having minimum supply voltage <= 4.5 V, such as the LF353.

1748363154488.png


The circuit below likewise has a diode-type fuzz circuit, but which is highly adjustable.

1748363185469.png

1748193975184.png


Here is the pinout diagram for a dual op-amp, along with pin-compatible example ICs.

1748194023631.png


ICs listed here should perform satisfactorily for the electric guitar and offer the least noise and distortion for circuits operated using a single 9V battery. They were chosen from among the best op-amps available today but whose minimum supply voltage is <= 4.5 VDC, since half of 9V is 4.5V, and a single-supply circuit sets the zero signal-reference operating-point midway between ground and the supply.

To get more distortion than the diodes provide, by overdriving a given circuit, use the LF353 instead of any of the ICs listed above. It is an older op-amp that will work with a single 9V battery as the supply and is a JFET-input op-amp, which means its overdriven tonality is preferred over that of most non-JFET-input op-amps. However, it will also work fine without being overdriven, and will not drain the battery nearly as fast as those listed above.

Note On Fuzz Circuits: The diode-based fuzz circuit used in the last two preamps are based on article “Build The Mod Box” by Thomas Henry and Jack Orman, in the May 1997 Electronics Now magazine (p.45). Obtain the article free online with this link.
https://www.muzique.com/news/images2/Mod_Box_May_1997.pdf
It originally specified the TL074 quad op-amp since it had four sub-circuits, and was operated from a split-supply. And despite being somewhat dated (25 years old), the circuitry has remained valid to this day, though I have adapted the diode arrays to conform to a single-supply circuit.

Additional Notes: Most circuits here are based on designs in the book “Building Electric Guitars” by Martin Koch. [$33.56 on eBay.] But the input stage of the second preamp is instead based on a design by Craig Anderton appearing in the Nov. 1981 issue of Guitar Player magazine. [Original issues start at $10.00 on eBay.] Those exact circuits cannot be found online, so a link to them is not available. Yet, I have depicted them accurately but for the minor additions I mentioned at the beginning of this post. Furthermore, while I receive much help diagnosing the diagrams I posted at first, I supplemented that help with online research, and an electronics textbook used at an accredited university. Consequently, all diagrams above have been updated and should be viable, but I would still treat them as experimental until after breadboard testing efforts have been completed.

Final Note: For comparison, the diagrams originally posted have been retained in the Attachments folder at the bottom of this post, while the updated versions are also there. I am embarrassed by the original ones, but proud of the new ones, though members who helped me with them deserve lots of credit. One thing should be mentioned, however, regarding the 0.2uF capacitors going to ground on the second stages of most of the diagrams. That, along with its associated resistor, sets the low-frequency cutoff for the associated op-amp at 80 Hz for 6-string guitar. But for bass-guitar, and 7-string or 8-string guitar, make it 0.43uF, for a 40 Hz cutoff. And for no low cutoff at all, it can be omitted. And by the way, the following replies correspond to the original diagrams, not the new ones. So, if you want to know what they are talking about, refer to the old diagrams as left in the Attachments.

EOF

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Revised Single-Battery Guitar Preamp Circuits

Verified Single-Battery Guitar-Preamp Designs

Here are six guitar preamp circuit designs, each shown powered by a single 9V battery. I posted some of them in this forum a while back but have lately revised them using a simulation website; CircuitLAB. www.circuitlab.com After working out all the bugs in a given diagram (very few thanks to help from my friends here at DIYAudio), the software at CircuitLAB displays a graph of circuit performance which verifies the design’s viability and allows for checking how changing part-values affect the circuit.

I have not built and tested these circuits. Thus, though verified, they must be viewed as experimental, so a prospective builder should breadboard test a chosen circuit before committing to a fully soldered build. But it is assumed that anyone contemplating using any of my designs as a basis for a new project is already an experienced technician. Hence, I cannot take responsibility for the outcome should someone base a project on any of my designs. I can only assure readers that they were verified using simulation software designed for that purpose. And I highly recommend CircuitLAB, if interested. They only allow one free trial project, but I like it so much I’m paying for it.

The diagrams involve various features and should be taken case-by-case to see which one or more may interest a possible builder. Also, it is allowed that subcircuits from one can be used in another or even used in a project not of my design. Notes are included in the diagrams to help make things clear and for specifying part numbers. First up is the most basic design, with Tone, Level, Bright, Drive, Gain, and Volume controls.

1750527114794.png


I have retained the symbols required by the CircuitLAB simulator for inputs and outputs, but a builder can simply imagine replacing them with female 1/4-inch phone-jacks, as shown below.

1750527191030.png


Inspiration for the input stage of the above preamp design must be credited to Austrian author Martin Koch, who wrote and self-published the book Building Electric Guitars, of which I have the 2nd Edition, 2001. The Circuits in question are on pages 49 and 60, but I made enough changes, compared to the originals, and as the output stage is of my own design, that I can claim the overall design as my invention. But in the interests of full disclosure, I have cited Koch as the source for the input stage.

Next is a design in which the input-stage was inspired by a Craig Anderton design appearing in a 1980s issue of Guitar Player magazine. Notice how he uses positive and negative feedback. The 2-band tone-control is an even older design, found in many op-amp applications circuits but which originated in the tube-amp days, specifically 1950. Called a Baxandall control, after its inventor, the first such circuit had a tube instead of an op-amp. For an online reference, see site https://tonestack.yuriturov.com, and select option Baxandall Active Dual Bass Cap. Combining the two circuits makes this diagram my creation, though I have just given full credit to whom it is due. [This is not a James tone-control, which uses much the same circuit but passively. Thus, the James control is often called a Passive Baxandall tone-control circuit.]

1750527668045.png


A little thinking reveals how the negative and positive feedback controls interact. The negative feedback pot is labeled “Overdrive” while the positive feedback pot is labeled “Gain”. And this makes sense because the Overdrive pot’s position, controlling negative feedback, makes the op-amp operate more cleanly when more feedback is applied, but otherwise allows the op-amp to approach its maximum output rating, causing distortion. This is why the arrow near the pot is in the opposite direction to the actual amount of negative feedback applied, so turning the pot clockwise makes the op-amp get louder. On the other hand, the Gain control sends feedback to the positive op-amp input, thus making it approach its maximum gain rating when more feedback is used, also causing distortion. Ordinarily, you don’t want positive feedback for an op-amp because of the danger of the device possibly exceeding its rated maximum-gain limit, which could in fact burn it out if unchecked. However, it's probably safe to assume that Anderton figured everything out before publishing the circuit, so the device will not exceed its rated maxima (with given part-values), even when overdriven.

Next up is a preamp circuit in which the input and output stages are completely of my own design, though obviously the tone-control is a 2-band Fender-style tone-stack, and inspiration for the diode-based fuzz circuit came from an old Electronics Now magazine article.

1750527901839.png


Specifically, see article “Build The Mod Box” by T. Henry and J. Orman appearing in the May 1997 issue, pages 45-49 and 60. Surprisingly, the article is available online. Here is the link. G:\Ebooks\ELECTRONICS\Magazines\Radio-Electronics\EN-1997-05.pdf

In the text of that article, and confirmed in other sources, germanium diodes and LEDs give better sounding fuzz than do silicone diodes. Also, an imbalance between the positive-going and negative-going diodes in an array introduces more even-order than odd-order harmonics into the fuzz tone. In the article, one diode was used in one leg of their array but two in the other. Here, I allow users to select between one, two, or three in different legs. However, only experimentation will reveal whether this arrangement will result in sounds pleasing to the ear. As an addendum in that respect, consider a well-written online source on diode distortion titled “Producing Asymmetrical Clipping”, linked here. https://www.muzique.com/lab/warp.htm

Below is a more elaborate version of the same kind of preamp, this with 3-band tone.

1750528024309.png


Note that I rely totally on Yuri Turov’s tone-stack calculator (cited above) when getting part-values for my tone-controls, instead of tediously crunching numbers like I used to do. In some cases, I use default values, as above, but in others I tailor the values to my personal preferences. For instance, I sometimes adjust them to increase the mids of the above tone-stack, as the default values (based on the original Fender design) have a tremendous dip in the mids when all the pots are at their middle positions. I also like to give it more treble and set the response graph as high in amplitude as it will go.

In the preamp design below, I use much the same op-amp circuits original to me but pair them with well-known classic distortion circuits that have been used in the past by many stomp-box makers and hobbyists. Craig Anderton was the first to discover that the inverting buffers in the CD4049 hex-inverting buffer IC produce an overdriven tone similar to that of a saturated preamp tube. Some online sources say his idea was first published in Guitar Player magazine but he had actually published it long beforehand in his book Electronic Projects for Musicians, from Amsco Publications (first copyrighted in 1975 but later copyrighted again in 1980, as far as my copy states, but I don’t know if there are later editions). In my copy, it’s the “Tube Sound Fuzz”, p 170 -173. Below are two identical clones my source says are used in MXR’s “Hot Tubes” pedal.

1750528285677.png


I was unable to confirm that MXR made a pedal called “Hot Tubes”, but I did find one by Electro Harmonix. See that circuit here. hottubes.gif (739×706) That stomp-box is itself quite dated, and is only available used, for instance, at www.guitarcenter.com. I have also noticed that many modern fuzz pedals use diode clipping instead of overdriven op-amps, or they are sticking with discrete transistor designs. However, whether the above circuit can compete in the tone department can only be known if the circuit is built and sound tests are performed for comparison. Yet, my design should sound very much like the old-school Electro Harmonix Hot Tubes pedal.

Finally for this post, the preamp circuit below features an octave circuit, though the source for it touts it as providing a distorted octave sound. Apparrently its octave tonality is pleasing to the ear. Here, I use a summing-amp to mix the direct and octave signals

1750528468108.png


Octave Circuit Source: David Morrin, at https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=186086
Note: You must sign up with DIY Stompboxes to access the original schematic, which was posted in their forum. However, I have rendered the circuit accurately between the Octave Drive and Octave Level controls, exclusive, while the Trim pot was in the original design, but I renamed it.
That site’s home page is linked here. https://www.diystompboxes.com

To replace the battery with a standard regulated power-supply, here’s an example circuit.

1750528592635.png


However, you can also use a 9V adaptor commonly used for stomp-boxes. Yet, here’s a tip for how to make the cheap ones work better (more like a regulated supply).

1750528677565.png


While the adaptor (wall-wart) is relatively inexpensive, a suitable choke is rather costly. However, if you can find a cheaper one that will work, that’s OK. What’s specified in the diagram are mere examples, provided for the reader’s convenience.

As reported by the designer in the noted Circuit Reference, this circuit will make an ordinarily noisy unregulated +9V wall-wart perform like a regulated supply. But on the other hand, Guitar Center has a 9V wall-wart they list as a “regulated” supply for stomp-boxes. [Probably Zener regulated, which is perfectly acceptable.] It’s only $19.99. The Live Wire PH17000 “Slimline” Power Supply, item # 1342450362499. https://www.guitarcenter.com

I make no apologies for using old circuits to create my designs. In my experience, if something works in electronics, it will continue to work as long as parts are available. And there is something to be said about the fact that many new commercial stomp-box circuits are based on old circuits or are reissues of old circuits. Proof of desirable tonality, however, will be known only should one of my designs get bult and is put to the test.

EOF

DIY Bookshelves to replace monitors

Hi there.

Currently, im running JBL LSR305s alongside a dayton MX15-22. The JBLs will play happy to about 55hz and the sub up to about 60hz, which makes for some decent response with a little EQ.

However, I'm wondering if there's any performance left on the table mids and highs wise. Sub is tight and clean, and will happily play as loud as I want and well below 20hz, but my monitors feel a tiny bit lacking, especially when I'm turning them up to 90-95dB (i know it'll blow my ears out, I just want to be distortion free as loud for as I wanna play them). I feel like at higher volumes, I run into a little woofer compression, and despite the measurements being pretty flat it's lacking warmth. I've found it hard to EQ that warmth you get with larger floorstanders and bookshelves in with this little system, at least comparing it to PMC Prophecy 9s I heard not long ago.

My goal is to get to about 40hz or so in a relatively small cabinet (probably 0.65-0.75cuft net). Does anyone have driver suggestions for 8" or 7" drivers around £100? I was looking at the Dayton SIG225 originally, but the RS180-4 and ETON 7-612/C8/32 have caught my eye - wondering if the ETON driver is worth the extra £50 per pair compared to the RS180.

Tweeter recommendations also welcome, but I wanna focus on the woofer and get the bulk of enclosure design outta the way lol

Thanks in advance!!!

I have 3 Jensen P15MNS 2 need recone

I would sell them or trade for parts for a marcel DAC other than the JLsounds i2s to usb converter
i already have 2 r cores with 4 secondaries too.
I need regulators,
a marcel dac
pcm to dsd
and some anti jitter stuff.
If someone does good deals on the recone or has extra kits I am interested as well and can pay.
I also have 2 baldwin leslies
I am in charlotte NC

Love all yall

OMG I have these super shallow wide speaker cabs i have to cover the front hole in so to make them tall skinny deep and narrow but thats for another day

keep healing the world with music everyone.

were almost there

"mp3 will die soon and the fraunhaufer corp who helped us shrink the 44.1khz 16bit codec down small enough for 1998 56,6 dialup modems will be forgiven for doing such great psychoacoustical research."

Experience of using AI programmes for loudspeaker design

I know very little at the moment about the ability of AI programmes to generate sensible, or good data for typical 2 - 4 way loudspeaker design, hence my ramble questions below.

The candidate AI programme I am asking about here is Claude.ai. I assume the free version or do I need to go to the subscription version?

Kindly, can somebody provide a brief overview of what the free version would allow me to achieve, is it viable for loudspeaker design ?

Forum member mechano23 using XMachina has already shown that you can make a well received design, if the correct parameters are applied. I definitely do not want to have to spend three times the amount on crossover components compared to the £80 driver I wanted to used. Cost are one constraint or parameter to be entered?
Do they accept FRD and ZMA file data, do they need real data or can they work from manufacturers data sheet data and apply diffraction loss other cabinet effects, once cabinet data is entered?

Within the questions I am not sure how many microseconds these things take to produce an output, or does it take the course of an evening whizzing around searchable data on the internet before it provides an answer? As a preference I like graphical display in the time and frequency domains as they allow me to have a indication of what is going on

In terms of model training for a loudspeaker design, are you allowed to describe the parameters that would allow you to measure pre defined standard say IEC 60268-21, the Harman preferred curve, BBC, Stereophile reviewers listening room, or audio express recommendations etc.

If not part of the AI and it is up to the designer to provide parameters, maybe we should start listing what parameters we think are relevant.?.
Does somebody want to share their design an parameters to enlighten me. How would it handle a remake of a Spica TC50 using Purifi drivers for one example and currently available Peerless drivers for the other.

Finally I assume as the models learn over the course of time one user in Shanghai will end up with exactly the same Xover design for a certain set of drivers and optimum box size, as somebody in Jakarta, if they use exactly the same choice of drivers?

Any help, thoughts or guidance much appreciated.
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Tubes4HiFi SP14 really noisy!

Hi,


I ordered the kit without the chassis, as I wanted to build my own - plus I wanted to try to save some $$$’s
Smile


I’m getting a LOT of noise out of this…

All the voltages are as they should be.

B+ is 276vdc
H+/H- is 6.13 and 5.87
Voltage drops from 313 to 276 across D13 (both sides…)
6.43vac on heater from transformer


I have checked, double and triple checked the wires from all RCA inputs/outputs. The ground bus and all the connections to that, the ground to the circuit board from the bus. I’ve gone over the input selector, and all the wires coming and going from that. All the connections from the selector, through to the gain and volume controls. The output from the volume to the board, and ground wire are as outlined in the instructions.

I did not install the tape switch, and ran the wires straight from selector to the gain pots.

There are two things I changed as far as the power supply goes. I used an old school toggle switch in place of the power switch that came with the kit. And I accidentally reversed the red and black primaries to the transformers from a hot/neutral perspective. But I don’t think the transformers care about hot/neutral?

The noise is the same regardless of gain/volume settings. It’s the same in both channels. It gradually comes up in volume as the unit powers up. As soon as it’s powered off, it disappears but music keeps playing until it fades away.

The noise is the same, albeit with different volumes, if I run it into my DIY Hiraga Super 30 Class A SS amp, or my DIYAudio VFet SE SS amp.

Thank you for taking the time to read through this, any help would be greatly appreciated!

P

This is the noise as it presents at the speaker…

A504E1B9-5847-4C81-990B-09F7090CC1B4.jpeg

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Drive NOS AD1865/62,PCM1704/02/63,TDA1541 from FIFO: Universal I2S-PCM driver board

Rather than I2S signals, most of R-2R NOS DACs (PCM63, AD1865, AD1862, PCM1704, PCM1702, TDA1541...) driven by LL/LR, DL, DR and BCK. I might be wrong, but to make it easier, I call them “PCM” signals.

Usually those signals are generated by digital filter chips (DF1704, PDM100, SM5842/43/47...). However, for applications such as NOS mode, software based up-sampling mode, or to interface directly with FIFO KIT, we don’t need that digital filter. In this case, how to design a low jitter I2S to PCM driver daughter board becomes an issue.

Zinsula, vzs and other members provided a lot of good suggestions on this driver board, I summarize those the requirements as blow

1. Support 16,18,20,24 bit PCM format
2. Support PCM63,AD1865,AD1862,PCM1704,PCM1702,TDA154 and other 2-2R DAC
3. L,R simultaneous timing, latching at same latching edge to eliminate L/R phase difference
4. Bit clock can be stopped after data shifted into DAC to reduce DAC noise floor further
5. Optional tail clocks after latching work for PCM17XX DAC
6. Optional one leading clock to “warm up” logic state machine(may not need in most of cases)
7. FPGA/CPLD based low jitter synchronized logic design clocked by MCLK only
8. High speed design capable for 384KHz Fs with maxima MCLK over 100MHz
9. Support dual mono DAC mode
10. Very high speed re-clocking at last stage optimized for low jitter performance
11. Daughter board architecture can stack on top of the FIFO clock board

I started this I2S to PCM driver daughter board project a couple of month ago. Now I’m almost done. Here are some previous progresses posted on the FIFO thread:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-33.html#post2980088

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-35.html#post2983484

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-36.html#post2985663

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-39.html#post2989034

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-40.html#post2991350

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-40.html#post2991644

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-40.html#post2991670

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-43.html#post2995428

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-47.html#post3016242

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-59.html#post3041836

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-60.html#post3043110

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-60.html#post3047114

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-81.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/192465-asynchronous-i2s-fifo-project-ultimate-weapon-fight-jitter-88.html

regal suggested me opening a new thread for this project. That makes sense. NOS DAC and DS DAC belong to different application. It’s not good mixing them up.

Will start evaluating this daughter board very soon.

Ian

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