cheapest fullrange that can beat any speaker made before 1970?

Yes, the original one. I wouldn't trust the F-18 FR graph either and if it's anywhere near reality, it needs even more EQ. Only advantage would be that you could dial in a bigger bass boost for open baffle if you don't use dedicated (sub)woofers.
Where's your notch in frequency?
I aimed for 6.5 khz. My complaint was sibilance and 0.15mh // 4uF // 12R does the job.

Here are some references on the peak: https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=171345.0 + https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...e-or-manzanita-for-ss-amp.383425/post-6964477
 
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She did not say full range, or full-range as you are now stating. She said fullrange, which in my readings has always meant a single driver.
I stated single driver for anyone having difficulty understanding that term.
You’re wrong. ”any speaker made before 1970?” - means exactly that. Seems to me that the OP wants to compare ”the cheapest fullrange that can beat” - which, IMO is pretty silly, if not impossible. Yeah; fullrange (spell it however you like) is single driver. “Any speaker” though, is something entirely - different - and doesn’t mean just a single driver.
But then again, I am getting old and I don’t speak English.
 
You’re wrong. ”any speaker made before 1970?” - means exactly that. Seems to me that the OP wants to compare ”the cheapest fullrange that can beat” - which, IMO is pretty silly, if not impossible. Yeah; fullrange (spell it however you like) is single driver. “Any speaker” though, is something entirely - different - and doesn’t mean just a single driver.
But then again, I am getting old and I don’t speak English.
You speak it fine. You're just bored and being deliberately obtuse, complaining about something I made explicitly clear without publishing a white paper on it.
In your opinion, to be explicitly clear, you are saying a full range speaker isn't a complete speaker, and merely a single driver, sitting by itself on a countertop or perhaps floating in the air?
"Spell it however you like"? Believe it or not, different spellings usually make different words, and mean different things, which I already explained, you chose to ignore.
 
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You speak it fine. You're just bored and being deliberately obtuse, complaining about something I made explicitly clear without publishing a white paper on it.
In your opinion, to be explicitly clear, you are saying a full range speaker isn't a complete speaker, and merely a single driver, sitting by itself on a countertop or perhaps floating in the air?
Wrong again. I said nothing of the sort. What I said was that the OP was asking about comparing the cheapest fullrange to any speaker made before 1970. Get it? Jeeze.. Now I’m bored - and done.
 
Taking the approach of the least amount of parts in the signal path to ones ears seems counter to using a single driver speaker without a crossover.

How many steps and parts are applied in a DSP on the way to a driver?
Suppose DSP EQ was applied to the source material not in real time, what would be the objection regarding shortest signal path? The mastering engineer had done the same, surely.

I used to pre-convert flac files to wav before listening; very significant improvement. Minimalist music PC fb2k set to high priority async usb through kernel streaming to Chord Hugo, then Bel Canto S300i driving Monitor Audio Studio 2 (philosophically a first-order single-driver FAST) paired with fast 8in Jamo subs (active WAW), all Audience AU24 wires.
 
The OPer ask what full range speakers TODAY, beat the speakers of 1970 and BEFORE.
There is NO mention of single drivers anywhere in the OP.
The question of price seems to be the guiding light.
What is "Fullrange". 20hz or < to 20khz or > is FULLRANGE. Not minus anything. They will hit both
ends. If not you post the difference.

20hz - 20khz. There are only a few. They are expensive or may not be a preferred choice. I really like some of the old VMPS speakers. I'm sure they didn't measure to well, BUT a few models will hit below 20hz and above 20khz without a problem. The issue of acoustic centers on the drivers and rules for speaker spacing seemed to be a hit a miss affair on earlier models in particular. Live and learn. Tannoy was one paying attention. Infinity IRS series? Wilson? Sound Lab, Pass Lab; Rushmore or the earlier model. GRs NX series, Magico, Swan and DIY. I'm pretty sure DIY speakers have the most for the least.

If you can't build it and want it you have to pay for it.
I see it as:
If I can't afford it, I need to build it. Johnny Cash's "One pieces at a time" 😎
 
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Could you post a picture/description here? I can't conveniently access youtube. The biggest speakers with me in Beijing are Fidelio PM2A Ticonal. Appreciated!
I bought a recone kit from Zolt at the Lowther modifcation forum on facebook. Not sure if that helps. Can you access Facebook? A speaker modificstion facebook group should be pretty harmless.
 
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Thanks! FB is of course also outside the "wall", which has become very difficult to "climb", but given the tip I will try to find a way to the group. Does Zsolt have a public email address? My Fidelio PM2A are fine but one of my ear-bleeding PM6A "innie" foam surrounds suffered a trough split. (It was probably my fault using a makeshift sharp-hole-edged baffle, I'm not sure; I white-glued the open seam using a needle and it played....) So I will be looking to collect some future solution kits.
 
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Thanks! FB is of course also outside the "wall", which has become very difficult to "climb", but given the tip I will try to find a way to the group. Does Zsolt have a public email address? My Fidelio PM2A are fine but one of my ear-bleeding PM6A "innie" foam surrounds suffered a trough split. (It was probably my fault using a makeshift sharp-hole-edged baffle, I'm not sure; I white-glued the open seam using a needle and it played....) So I will be looking to collect some future solution kits.
Zolt should be somewhere here on DIYaudio. Let me check. Zolt has these cloth surrounds that I think are a step above the foam. It can be good with a careful coat with silicone to make it air tight.
 
Can we simplify this discussion a bit?

1. What are some of the best sounding classic fullrangers (<70s)?

2. How much does one need to spend today on a new fullranger to improove on that (and what that is)?

Seems quite a reasonable question to ask, I sure am curious.