10,000uF, 80V, 85degC will work as the LKS maxes out at 10000uF@80V and 5600uF@100V. The KLS has higher ripple current than the Daewood's.
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Thanks @tangoextreme.
Great. I'll go with those Nichicons for the two large caps.
The other (small) electrolytic caps on the same PCB are three Daewoo RSS 100uF 25V 85degC (6.3mm x 11mm x 2.5mm spacing).
I found these Nichicon UKWs: UKW1E101MED Nichicon | Mouser
The ripple current is rated at 185ma.
However, am I reading the Daewoo RSS specs for 100uF 25v (6.3x11) correctly in that they are rated for 210ma?
https://www.megastar.com/products/Daewoo/Content/pdfs/rss_series.pdf
So I'm wondering if these Nichicon UKWs are suitable or not?
Also, I think I can see at least one electrolytic cap on the other inputs/control PCB. Access looks more difficult as it appears that the neutrik connectors would need to be desoldered, in order to remove and get access to the other side of the PCB. Is recapping the electrolytic cap(s) on this inputs/control PCB important too, or is it less critical?
Great. I'll go with those Nichicons for the two large caps.
The other (small) electrolytic caps on the same PCB are three Daewoo RSS 100uF 25V 85degC (6.3mm x 11mm x 2.5mm spacing).
I found these Nichicon UKWs: UKW1E101MED Nichicon | Mouser
The ripple current is rated at 185ma.
However, am I reading the Daewoo RSS specs for 100uF 25v (6.3x11) correctly in that they are rated for 210ma?
https://www.megastar.com/products/Daewoo/Content/pdfs/rss_series.pdf
So I'm wondering if these Nichicon UKWs are suitable or not?
Also, I think I can see at least one electrolytic cap on the other inputs/control PCB. Access looks more difficult as it appears that the neutrik connectors would need to be desoldered, in order to remove and get access to the other side of the PCB. Is recapping the electrolytic cap(s) on this inputs/control PCB important too, or is it less critical?
For the 100uF, I suggest you to use 35V instead of 25V.
Is the coupling capacitor connected to High Level Input or Low Level Input? If the capacitor is at the Low Level Input and you are not using it, it is not critical.
Is the coupling capacitor connected to High Level Input or Low Level Input? If the capacitor is at the Low Level Input and you are not using it, it is not critical.
This is a huge help.
It looks like it's for the low level input.
I'm using the low level inputs on the dual Storm IIIs in my main system, because I route the subwoofer signals (only) through a DSpeaker 'Anti-Mode 2.0' unit.
So I'll try to service the input/control PCBs too.
Okay, this Nichicon 100uF is 35V, and also happens to have a better ripple current rating than the one above, at 200ma: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UKW1V101MED/493-15506-ND/1964242
100uF 35V 85degC 200ma ripple (6.3mm x 11mm x 2.5mm spacing).
It looks like it's for the low level input.
I'm using the low level inputs on the dual Storm IIIs in my main system, because I route the subwoofer signals (only) through a DSpeaker 'Anti-Mode 2.0' unit.
So I'll try to service the input/control PCBs too.
Okay, this Nichicon 100uF is 35V, and also happens to have a better ripple current rating than the one above, at 200ma: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nichicon/UKW1V101MED/493-15506-ND/1964242
100uF 35V 85degC 200ma ripple (6.3mm x 11mm x 2.5mm spacing).
Okay, so I'm a little bit slow, but here's another Storm III board that I just serviced.
- Recapped all electrolytics with Nichicon UKW1V101MED 100uf 35v and Nichicon LKS1K103MESC 10,000uf 80v, including the hidden 100uf on the preamp PCB.
- Changed Q4, Q5 to MJE350, and Q9, Q10 to MJE340. Added Aavid 577102B00000G heatsinks to Q5 & Q10 (I also changed Q13 to MJE340 and Q14 to MJE350 while I was at it)
- Changed R6 (SMD 10k) to 22K, 1/4 Watt, 1%
- Changed R8 (12k, 2 Watt) to Caddock MP925 15k 1% 25W TO-220 resistor with Aavid 504222B00000G heat sink (Snap off one leg to clear Q7 if necessary. Notch a nylon spacer and glue between heatsink and pcb with epoxy or neutral cure silicone RTV)
Temps with music playing (all measured in open air)
- Q5 & Q10 80-85F (up to 135F previously)
- R8 100-110F (up to 160F previously)
- Recapped all electrolytics with Nichicon UKW1V101MED 100uf 35v and Nichicon LKS1K103MESC 10,000uf 80v, including the hidden 100uf on the preamp PCB.
- Changed Q4, Q5 to MJE350, and Q9, Q10 to MJE340. Added Aavid 577102B00000G heatsinks to Q5 & Q10 (I also changed Q13 to MJE340 and Q14 to MJE350 while I was at it)
- Changed R6 (SMD 10k) to 22K, 1/4 Watt, 1%
- Changed R8 (12k, 2 Watt) to Caddock MP925 15k 1% 25W TO-220 resistor with Aavid 504222B00000G heat sink (Snap off one leg to clear Q7 if necessary. Notch a nylon spacer and glue between heatsink and pcb with epoxy or neutral cure silicone RTV)
Temps with music playing (all measured in open air)
- Q5 & Q10 80-85F (up to 135F previously)
- R8 100-110F (up to 160F previously)
Attachments
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Q3, Q6 & Q7 are the TO-92's near the LED. I don't know about about Q8. I don't see it.
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Btw, Q3, Q6 & Q7 appear to be KSP92's. The SMD version of the plate amp uses MMBTA56'
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Great Thread and very timely since one of my Storm III's has developed a Hum.
It does not Hum when I initially turn it on but after I play some Music it will sit there with a small hum.
I am looking for a Service Tech to rebuild both of my Storm III Amp's but I have struck out with two recommendations from an Audiogon Post.
These Recommendations are both 6 Month's out;
The Audio Wizard in Arizona
EBC Electronics in NJ
I would really like to keep these due to the Size, Beautiful Cherry Cabinet, and I am the Original Owner since New.
If anyone can steer me to a good Technician then please contact me and this would be much appreciated.
It does not Hum when I initially turn it on but after I play some Music it will sit there with a small hum.
I am looking for a Service Tech to rebuild both of my Storm III Amp's but I have struck out with two recommendations from an Audiogon Post.
These Recommendations are both 6 Month's out;
The Audio Wizard in Arizona
EBC Electronics in NJ
I would really like to keep these due to the Size, Beautiful Cherry Cabinet, and I am the Original Owner since New.
If anyone can steer me to a good Technician then please contact me and this would be much appreciated.
Hum
I have a faint hum on one of my Strata III's.
Hums when turned on even without any input connected.
Any idea?
I have a faint hum on one of my Strata III's.
Hums when turned on even without any input connected.
Any idea?
I was getting a Hum also so with the Sub turned off I rocked the Power Switch back and forth several times.
Magically, the Hum went away but who knows how long the Switch will last now.
Magically, the Hum went away but who knows how long the Switch will last now.
Just found R8 was dead. Would not measure on my multi-meter. Trying to get a replacement and hoping this is the cause of the hum.
Hi everyone, thanks so much for all the helpful information in this thread.
I have a Strata III that was beginning to show signs of age -- whooshing, weak signal, crackling. I had the amp out and on a shelf for about 10 years (!) and I finally got around to thoroughly cleaning the power switch and replacing R8 with a 12K 3W 2% Dale resistor. Mounted it WAY off the board (like about an inch) and am hoping this helps keep it cool. May do the whole rework and cap replacement later.
Unfortunately I can't figure out where I put the screws to secure the amp to the enclosure. Would anyone happen to have specifications on those? I am very particular on using the proper fasteners -- just not so good at remembering where I put them...
I have a Strata III that was beginning to show signs of age -- whooshing, weak signal, crackling. I had the amp out and on a shelf for about 10 years (!) and I finally got around to thoroughly cleaning the power switch and replacing R8 with a 12K 3W 2% Dale resistor. Mounted it WAY off the board (like about an inch) and am hoping this helps keep it cool. May do the whole rework and cap replacement later.
Unfortunately I can't figure out where I put the screws to secure the amp to the enclosure. Would anyone happen to have specifications on those? I am very particular on using the proper fasteners -- just not so good at remembering where I put them...
Fantastic info here. Gosh, some years ago I paid to send my Stadium amp to UK for repair LOL. Looks like that was not money or time well spent.
Seems this thread is kind of old but I'll give a shot at resurrecting. I'm going to try to repair a Strata III. I see a few mentions throughout the thread but most are discussing Storm III. Even great parts lists and instructions but they're for the Storm. Does anyone know how many differences there are between the Storm and Strata?
Seems this thread is kind of old but I'll give a shot at resurrecting. I'm going to try to repair a Strata III. I see a few mentions throughout the thread but most are discussing Storm III. Even great parts lists and instructions but they're for the Storm. Does anyone know how many differences there are between the Storm and Strata?
It's classic euro product. Designed with flaws and then premium demanded to sort out all that pile of **** inside that was supposed to be perfect in the first place.
I sold rel to some rel fanatic. Convenient to have such fools around to dump junk electronics.
I have been happy with Dayton audio spa 250 and 500 watt plate amps. Run pretty cool. And no issues. Havent found complaints or long threads of people trying to fix engineering mistakes or "optimisations".
I mounted it on 15" velodyne sub I found for free. Good driver but junk amp on velodynes.
Or just get a hsu sub and call it a day.
Fixing rell is like fixing a bmw. Problems never end
I sold rel to some rel fanatic. Convenient to have such fools around to dump junk electronics.
I have been happy with Dayton audio spa 250 and 500 watt plate amps. Run pretty cool. And no issues. Havent found complaints or long threads of people trying to fix engineering mistakes or "optimisations".
I mounted it on 15" velodyne sub I found for free. Good driver but junk amp on velodynes.
Or just get a hsu sub and call it a day.
Fixing rell is like fixing a bmw. Problems never end
I just did my Storm III. Interestingly it must be an older variant as it had no SMT resistors, everything TH. Values are the same though.