I thought that contact cement was the way to go with veneer on loudspeakers, but it would seem that PVA glues can also be used with a press. Towards the end of this video, they show how.
Basically, a PVA glue with a long set up time is applied to the backer of the veneer. The glue is allowed to "skim over" and then applied to the substrate (MDF). A household iron, set to a "medium temperature" is then used as a platten to set the veneer. The author notes that kraft paper should be used between the iron and veneer so as to not discolor the veneer.
Basically, a PVA glue with a long set up time is applied to the backer of the veneer. The glue is allowed to "skim over" and then applied to the substrate (MDF). A household iron, set to a "medium temperature" is then used as a platten to set the veneer. The author notes that kraft paper should be used between the iron and veneer so as to not discolor the veneer.
it can be done, but I strongly recommend using specific iron on veneer glue. Much better adhesion and better to work.
Contact cement sets faster, that is the only advantage, particularly on curved surfaces.
It is used here in that situation, not otherwise.
Here, they use PVA glue, and spread it using a piece of scrap laminate with edge cut like a comb (!)
The veneer is put in place, edges held using masking tape, and left overnight to set.
There is no need for Kraft paper or heating for ordinary PVA emulsion, which is the standard glue here, but of course our ambient temperature is higher.
The contact cement of choice is SR998, fast setting, and SR505, slower setting, both are sold by the company 'Pidilite' here.
I have no ties to the sellers of those products.
It is used here in that situation, not otherwise.
Here, they use PVA glue, and spread it using a piece of scrap laminate with edge cut like a comb (!)
The veneer is put in place, edges held using masking tape, and left overnight to set.
There is no need for Kraft paper or heating for ordinary PVA emulsion, which is the standard glue here, but of course our ambient temperature is higher.
The contact cement of choice is SR998, fast setting, and SR505, slower setting, both are sold by the company 'Pidilite' here.
I have no ties to the sellers of those products.
I've used aliphatic resin wood glue on veneer and a vacuum bag to press it on. Works well for me. Also, I've done it with 3m 90 contact cement with thinner veneers. I like the vacuum bag technique better because the glue sets very well and bonds "as one" more with the substrate, especially if its mdf. It also complies better over time with harder veneers on uneven surfaces and resists chipping better when routing edges.
Also don't overlook hot hide glue / hammer veneering. It's a traditional method with a number of advantages, which has stood the test of time over millennia of use. Very very durable (centuries), reworkable, thin bond line, stain & finish compatibility... There are many woodworkers today who swear by it.
I prefer contact cement but in a pinch have used PVA.
Main problem is avoiding any trapped air, not having tackiness at all means you can´t solve problems later.
I use a rounded edge spatula to avoid scratching surface and I brush/comb surface from center to edges in all directions to sweep trapped air away, then let it dry under even pressure.
I use a large softish EVA rubber mat with a piece of chipboard on top and some added weights (old transformers 😉 ) and it always comes out fine.
Only problem: the whole deal is way slower than contact cement but if you are not in a hurry .....
or, say, working in an appartment where solvent fumes are unacceptable.
Main problem is avoiding any trapped air, not having tackiness at all means you can´t solve problems later.
I use a rounded edge spatula to avoid scratching surface and I brush/comb surface from center to edges in all directions to sweep trapped air away, then let it dry under even pressure.
I use a large softish EVA rubber mat with a piece of chipboard on top and some added weights (old transformers 😉 ) and it always comes out fine.
Only problem: the whole deal is way slower than contact cement but if you are not in a hurry .....
or, say, working in an appartment where solvent fumes are unacceptable.
To smooth out and disperse trapped air bubbles I use a rolling pin modified with a rubber coating to avoid splitting the veneer from excess trapped glue that can build up in the rolling process.
I wound up using the chloropene based contact cement -- reason being that I also used a veneer which was phenolic-backed. It's about $0.60/sq foot more expensive. It cuts beautifully, even without a veneer saw (I did find my veneer saw!). Also bought a new laminate trimming bit which worked very "cleanly".
Probably best what you used. I have used PVA with thin paper backed veneer without issue but prefer heat lock as I think it bonds better ( letting glue dry then using iron to bond). For natural veneer PVA and vacuum bagging is premium but got tired of the equipments being in the way so went back to paperbacked and heat lock, great results every time.
Almost all of the myriad enclosures Chris built used paper backed veneer, PVA, and an iron.
dave
dave
