Does anyone know what is required to get the back panel on this amplifier to swivel down? Let me explain further. I have the top panel removed and there are two screws at the top and back that if removed I think will allow the swivel down to occur. But they have built-in washers that I cannot remove due to the side wood panels obstructing them. The side wood panels are each held on by two screws but these are very difficult to get to without removing other parts. This has been a weakness of me as part-time DIYer - getting this stuff apart. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Don
Thank you. I have the service manual and I did not realize how simple it was to get the wood panels off once the top panel was removed. Was staring at the interior.
Side wood panels removed and back panel swiveled down after removing two phillips head screws from each back panel side and three phillips head screws from the underside of the back panel that attach the back panel to the chassis. Ready for replacement of speaker terminal strips and other work. I fabricated the terminal strips from scratch using 1/16" thick acrylic board and binding posts from Amazon.
Attachments
Two questions now re: TA-8650 refurb:
1) What needs to be done to remove the wires from plastic connector so that I can replace the connector. I've seen pictures of the new connectors but have not found a reference to remove the old ones.
2) The power supply caps are discharged. I am going to measure the capacitance and maybe other parameters (ESR?). If they still measure good, would you replace them?
Thanks, Don
1) What needs to be done to remove the wires from plastic connector so that I can replace the connector. I've seen pictures of the new connectors but have not found a reference to remove the old ones.
2) The power supply caps are discharged. I am going to measure the capacitance and maybe other parameters (ESR?). If they still measure good, would you replace them?
Thanks, Don
That requires an extraction tool. Normally you must use the exact one intended for the specific connector and pins.
An example: https://www.amazon.com/JRready-Extractor-Removal-Connectors-Connector/dp/B0B6FMZMH4/ref=asc_df_B0B6FMZMH4/
This unit is 50 years old, so if you can find quality capacitors from a well known mfr that properly fit, replacing them may be worthwhile.
Otherwise, test them for condition.
An example: https://www.amazon.com/JRready-Extractor-Removal-Connectors-Connector/dp/B0B6FMZMH4/ref=asc_df_B0B6FMZMH4/
This unit is 50 years old, so if you can find quality capacitors from a well known mfr that properly fit, replacing them may be worthwhile.
Otherwise, test them for condition.
I still need to know how to pull the connectors themselves off. I am used to latched multi-wire computer connectors.
And for the double 10000 and 3000 microfarad caps, I assume they are connected in parallel to make 20,000 microfarad (power amp) and 6000 microfarad (pre-amp) totals, respectively. Is there a picture somewhere showing the connections for replacement using two 10,000 microfarad and two 3000 microfarad caps?
And for the double 10000 and 3000 microfarad caps, I assume they are connected in parallel to make 20,000 microfarad (power amp) and 6000 microfarad (pre-amp) totals, respectively. Is there a picture somewhere showing the connections for replacement using two 10,000 microfarad and two 3000 microfarad caps?
The connectors should just pull off. But they aren't. So will have to figure it out. I will review Prime HiFi's video on the TAN-8550 for more info regarding replacement for double caps.