#12-12-007 4 Eminesence 12" vintage subwoofers

They look the part. But how would they perform with home A/V?
 

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Stick 'em in a box, find out how they perform ;^).

The surround looks like they probably have no more than 8mm Xmax.
Appears to be an OEM variant using the Eminence Kappa Pro-12 frame, which weighs 16.60 lbs (7.53 kg).
Cone looks heavier, surround may be more compliant, so may be considerably lower Fs than the Pro-12.
 
Use your PC, a copy of Room EQ Wizard and a simple impedance jig to get Fs, Re, Qes, Qms and Le. Then use a bucket, saucepan, whatever as a temporary enclosure to derive Vas. Finally, run a test signal at Fs through it until the sound noticeably changes and estimate usable Xmax from the excursion that you're seeing. Beats building a box for the drivers and then finding out that the box size and tuning is unsuitable for them.
 
Use your PC, a copy of Room EQ Wizard and a simple impedance jig to get Fs, Re, Qes, Qms and Le. Then use a bucket, saucepan, whatever as a temporary enclosure to derive Vas. Finally, run a test signal at Fs through it until the sound noticeably changes and estimate usable Xmax from the excursion that you're seeing. Beats building a box for the drivers and then finding out that the box size and tuning is unsuitable for them.

Agreed, doing it once is plenty enough work.

For my own personal project I had been looking in jbl domains. This company TRansparence is getting more of my attention.

Possibly this driver http://www.tr.ca/2006/english/produ...06/english/products/loudspeakers/15b-1200.htm

How good would that big 15 work sealed? I will by a program so I can quit asking ;( The "free" ones only always seem dodgy.

I am most curious where and what country they ship out of.
 
15b-1200

Prosound horn, reflex driver specs with only high power/Xmax to offset it, so overall a poor choice for true subwoofer apps unless a tapped horn (TH) and with a ~40 Hz Fs/0.31 Qts no sealed unless trade its high efficiency for a much wider BW using DSP.
 
Its one of the 18's I will confirm at the next chance (waiting for detailed specs via email). Apparently it will do 25 hz accurately without an eq. In a 10ft box. Theres another one I like, thats said to work in sealed boxes. A 15" sub in a sealed box. That sounds right along my alley.
 
I can't seem to settle on one, because I really like the B 380 too. I'm nearly certain and settled on the B380 for my very first JBL build this summer.

This is non related, these go back a bit. I thought they might be interesting for younger guys who aren't as familiar with Lancing and JBL. Admittingly with so many cheap boxes riding on the name I was sort of put off of them myself.

With the modern software available in the computer age has all that much changed?

Bracing is the only thing that stands out to me. Those old ways of bracing look a bit shaky, are they very effective? And 3/4" walls, adequate? There's an awful lot of energy passing through those up close to clipping. If thats how you like to rock them.

http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/jbl/plans/jbl-plans.htm
http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/altec/plans/1974-enc-manual.htm
http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/jbl/reference/technical/1983-subs.htm

If you have any other factory JBL plans and helpful literature from them and feel like sharing that would be nice of you.
 
B380??

Radiated box sound was part n' parcel to the stage sonic 'experience' in HIFI, small/medium cinema/PA apps plus cost/weight ratio has always been a major design goal regardless of the app, though nowadays there's so much power handling capability + $$$$ liability insurance that everything needs to be bullet-proofed, as energy efficient as practical.

Regardless, my first high end speakers were a pair of DIY Altec A7-500 and being trained by artisans, my cabs were so 'solid'/'tight'/'sharp' that the neighbor's factory cabs in comparison were basically unlistenable at anything above Muzak levels, so ultimately he bought them when I upgraded to A4s a few years later.

Yes, 3/4" (18-19 mm) marine no void I used, baltic, birch, apple ply no void or similar is fine for small cabs with no bracing, though ideally need mass loading, i.e. basically any material with a > ~1.8 mil psi MOE.

Right, the bracing back then was based on HE systems at low power, though as I proved with the A7's 825 horn cabs it was woefully inadequate, especially since they were made with packing crate quality 5/8" plywood that tended to delaminate over time if not repainted regularly.
 
B380??

Radiated box sound was part n' parcel to the stage sonic 'experience' in HIFI, small/medium cinema/PA apps plus cost/weight ratio has always been a major design goal regardless of the app, though nowadays there's so much power handling capability + $$$$ liability insurance that everything needs to be bullet-proofed, as energy efficient as practical.

Regardless, my first high end speakers were a pair of DIY Altec A7-500 and being trained by artisans, my cabs were so 'solid'/'tight'/'sharp' that the neighbor's factory cabs in comparison were basically unlistenable at anything above Muzak levels, so ultimately he bought them when I upgraded to A4s a few years later.

Yes, 3/4" (18-19 mm) marine no void I used, baltic, birch, apple ply no void or similar is fine for small cabs with no bracing, though ideally need mass loading, i.e. basically any material with a > ~1.8 mil psi MOE.

Right, the bracing back then was based on HE systems at low power, though as I proved with the A7's 825 horn cabs it was woefully inadequate, especially since they were made with packing crate quality 5/8" plywoo30d that tended to delaminate over time if not repainted regularly.

Not to mention some of them see more vigorous treatment. On the road doing gigs.

So far I am interested in modelling a 2235h after a B380, one that seems to be one of the go to jbl's for home hifi use.

Depending how close on the money reviewers are about them. I have little to no experience with subs 15 and up. My conscious mind has trouble believing those large subs can be very articulate fast and controlled as people say, combined with gut punching db's.
 
Can you narrow down the best 5 jbl suitable for subwoofer duty? Theres so many out there, new or re-coned second hand, isn't what's most important. Large hard hitting articulate subs are.

How would a 2240h work? This seller said he can get me pretty much any jbl I want...

JBL 2240H - 18" Low Frequency Driver - price is firm $299.95 (pic 1-3)
JBL E-130-8 - 15"Low Frequency Driver - price is firm $249.95 (pic 5,6)
JBL E-140-8 - 15"Low Frequency Driver - price is firm $249.95 (pic 6,7)
JBL 2278H - 18" Low Frequency Driver - price is firm $479.95 (pic 8)
JBL M110-4 10" Low Frequency Driver - price is firm $179.95 (pic 9)

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At the moment the jbl 2242h is going to be the one, unless theres a better choice option in standard ported bass reflex boxes.
 
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I post then read a bunch, then find answers I'm after and thats ok, I think I love jbl now. I decided to make these instead.

The 2240 H it will be. Big 4 FT flat black ported cabs. With long and shorty changeable ports. Long ones for ultra low bass the others for full range set up.

There doesn't seem to be a shortage of good looking jbl parts, for decent costs. It can be a nice expansion to the hobby.