I have a volvo s80 2004. I am going to install a Soundqubed hdx315d1 in the trunk. I would like to have as much sound as possible, but still have it playing down to the 20s and up to the 80s-100s.
I am going to make a new trunk floor from plywood, and build a ported box from plywood with a slot port tuned to maybe 29hz?
I do have an 8" aeroport, but it is too short.
The trunk is quite small and i could barely fit a rear firing box.
Should i make it rear firing, both sub and port. Side firing port. Sealed off firing forward. Or firing up?
I am going to make a new trunk floor from plywood, and build a ported box from plywood with a slot port tuned to maybe 29hz?
I do have an 8" aeroport, but it is too short.
The trunk is quite small and i could barely fit a rear firing box.
Should i make it rear firing, both sub and port. Side firing port. Sealed off firing forward. Or firing up?
After looking up a HDX-315 on their website (Not the HDX-315D1)...is this to be used as a competition set-up?
If not, there are far better choices for a sub-woofer...your intended driver is only rated at 87.41 decibels worth of sensitivity...this consumes lots of power to even get it going, let alone making it rattle things.
Likely to tune an enclosure to reach way down...it is going to consume the entirety of the trunk...& forward firing is always better, dust dirt & crap accumulates too easily if it is pointing straight up...& there is always the errant hard object bouncing along on the cone..
--------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
If not, there are far better choices for a sub-woofer...your intended driver is only rated at 87.41 decibels worth of sensitivity...this consumes lots of power to even get it going, let alone making it rattle things.
Likely to tune an enclosure to reach way down...it is going to consume the entirety of the trunk...& forward firing is always better, dust dirt & crap accumulates too easily if it is pointing straight up...& there is always the errant hard object bouncing along on the cone..
--------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick.........
I too looked at the sensitivity, but coming from an alpine typ r 12,with sensitivity of 85db, i knew it would not be such a problem. Im not looking to compete, except with my friends, but i do like my music to hurt a little.
Right now i have a 1000w rms @2ohms on the subwoofer in a box i got for free. It does play alot louder than the type r.
The t/s oarameters are for the d1 version. If you model the subwoofer in winisd, with 1000w or more and compare to other subs, it will play louder than an ultimax 15 for example.
Right now i have a 1000w rms @2ohms on the subwoofer in a box i got for free. It does play alot louder than the type r.
The t/s oarameters are for the d1 version. If you model the subwoofer in winisd, with 1000w or more and compare to other subs, it will play louder than an ultimax 15 for example.
I was planning on buying an alpine type r 15, but the soundqubed modelled to play louder. I got the soundqubed for 200€, unused. That is really why i bought it.
I am planning on upgrading to 1500-3000w rms, maybe running 0,5ohm. The soundqubed also takes alot more power than an alpine or anything from dayton.
I thought that if i port it to about 29hz in 120-160l, it would play down to 25hz, with cabin gain. That would be enough for me.
The 80-100hz may be harder. That depends more on the orientation?
I would have liked to build a 6th order box, but i dont have the room. I might go for 3-way fronts to get better kick-bass.
I am planning on upgrading to 1500-3000w rms, maybe running 0,5ohm. The soundqubed also takes alot more power than an alpine or anything from dayton.
I thought that if i port it to about 29hz in 120-160l, it would play down to 25hz, with cabin gain. That would be enough for me.
The 80-100hz may be harder. That depends more on the orientation?
I would have liked to build a 6th order box, but i dont have the room. I might go for 3-way fronts to get better kick-bass.
I would not be worried about crap etc. The cone is very rigid, and im not planning on using the trunk for much else. I can use the whole trunk for audio equipment.
I also need to fit an amp rack for 3 amplifiers though.
I have heard that forward facing has better sound quality, but i used my alpine rear firing, and the added decibells did make up for the minimal loss of sound quality. If the 15" sub played loud enough, forward facing would be my best option, but i havent tested sealing the trunk before. I have a rather big ski-pass hole, would i port through it then?
I think i would need the extra cabin gain to make it loud enough.
Im prob. Going with 3-way fronts on 600w. Mids have a sensitivity of 92-94db/m. And i like my bass to be louder than my music.
I also need to fit an amp rack for 3 amplifiers though.
I have heard that forward facing has better sound quality, but i used my alpine rear firing, and the added decibells did make up for the minimal loss of sound quality. If the 15" sub played loud enough, forward facing would be my best option, but i havent tested sealing the trunk before. I have a rather big ski-pass hole, would i port through it then?
I think i would need the extra cabin gain to make it loud enough.
Im prob. Going with 3-way fronts on 600w. Mids have a sensitivity of 92-94db/m. And i like my bass to be louder than my music.
I've always seen firing into a relatively close barrier to make stronger bass.
I think that tuning is a bit too low. You generally get about 20dB of cabin gain from the vehicle at the lowest frequencies. I'd tune it higher. Maybe others could help with suggestions here.
If you're using PVC, you can easily adjust. If you're using a slot, make the slot in a removable panel to allow its removal to adjust the length. The vehicle and the enclosure will determine the proper tuning if you're looking for the most bass possible.
Have you looked into the recommended enclosure from the manufacturer?
Sensitivity doesn't tell the whole story with low frequency drivers unless you're using very limited power. The xmax and power handling will make a great difference. If sensitivity were important, a PA woofer with a sensitivity of 104dB would be king in car audio but they are not.
I think that tuning is a bit too low. You generally get about 20dB of cabin gain from the vehicle at the lowest frequencies. I'd tune it higher. Maybe others could help with suggestions here.
If you're using PVC, you can easily adjust. If you're using a slot, make the slot in a removable panel to allow its removal to adjust the length. The vehicle and the enclosure will determine the proper tuning if you're looking for the most bass possible.
Have you looked into the recommended enclosure from the manufacturer?
Sensitivity doesn't tell the whole story with low frequency drivers unless you're using very limited power. The xmax and power handling will make a great difference. If sensitivity were important, a PA woofer with a sensitivity of 104dB would be king in car audio but they are not.
The tuning would be low for SPL use, but I want pretty good sound quality, and i would like to hear the whole spectrum. I don't know how much lower than tuning frequency is going to be heard with cabin gain.
I have a 15" Ultimax in my room tuned to 22hz and it is usable to 17hz. So I know i like the really low notes.
Also, tuning higher would make the peak at the tuning much higher, which would be good, but it's going to be boosted alot by cabin gain anyway, and thus higher frequencies won't sound as good as lows.
The manufacturer makes only SPL products, so their box recommendation is a tuning of about 40hz or higher, which is too high for me. The Fs of the driver is 26hz, so it can play really low, with a correct box.
As I said earlier, I do have an 8" Aeroport, but it's too short for a tuning of 29hz. And I would have to bend it for it to fit if it was longer. So a slot port it is. But it will be massive because of the big subwoofer and upwards of 1000wrms.
Subwoofer Box for SoundQubed HDX315D1 | Ported Box | Slot
Here is a sketch of a box that would maybe fit in my Volvo.
How exactly would I make the slot port movable?
I have a 15" Ultimax in my room tuned to 22hz and it is usable to 17hz. So I know i like the really low notes.
Also, tuning higher would make the peak at the tuning much higher, which would be good, but it's going to be boosted alot by cabin gain anyway, and thus higher frequencies won't sound as good as lows.
The manufacturer makes only SPL products, so their box recommendation is a tuning of about 40hz or higher, which is too high for me. The Fs of the driver is 26hz, so it can play really low, with a correct box.
As I said earlier, I do have an 8" Aeroport, but it's too short for a tuning of 29hz. And I would have to bend it for it to fit if it was longer. So a slot port it is. But it will be massive because of the big subwoofer and upwards of 1000wrms.
Subwoofer Box for SoundQubed HDX315D1 | Ported Box | Slot
Here is a sketch of a box that would maybe fit in my Volvo.
How exactly would I make the slot port movable?