Hi again,
Made a post yesterday with a crossover design i was messing with trying to understand it abit. It was obviously a horrific setup as people explained and have tried again.
I'm just wondering if this would be a sensible setup or not?
I've most likely made some stupid mistake again so all go crazy at me haha
I don't actually have any of the speakers or anything it's just a hypothetical senario for me to get the grasp of things, i've included the specification sheets for the speakers too in case that is any help.
Thanks
Made a post yesterday with a crossover design i was messing with trying to understand it abit. It was obviously a horrific setup as people explained and have tried again.
I'm just wondering if this would be a sensible setup or not?
I've most likely made some stupid mistake again so all go crazy at me haha
I don't actually have any of the speakers or anything it's just a hypothetical senario for me to get the grasp of things, i've included the specification sheets for the speakers too in case that is any help.
Thanks
Attachments
There's already a published design for the TCP115 and a slightly different Dayton ND tweeter(ND25, yours is the ND16) , why not use that as a model to play around with?
It's linked in a thread in this section - I can't post the link as it reproduces the whole thing.
Geoff
It's linked in a thread in this section - I can't post the link as it reproduces the whole thing.
Geoff
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For speakers that sit on the front of a stage, or in the middle of a room, bass wraps around the back and sides of the speaker and is lost to listeners in front. Bass wavelength is longer than the width and height of the cabinet. "Baffle step" in crossover boosts bass 3 db or more for those situations. Allen B and most moderators are obsessed with stage performance speakers. Of course most speaker tests are done with an omni mike in the middle of a room. The middle eats bass.
Personally, I back my speakers up to a hard 2.5 cm plaster wall to reflect the bass out at me. + 3 db. Drywall (sheet rock) on hollow wall does not reflect as well, so some bass boost in crossover is useful for most rooms even if the speaker is backed up to one wall.
Bass boost in the speaker 50-100 hz is kind of expensive. Bigger box than flat, more excursion in the bass driver required with low distortion. I try for flat bass, then if the speaker is in the middle and bass is wimpy, boost with tone control in the mixer or preamp. My TV speaker is under a coffee table 2.5 m from the wall, ie in the middle. Tone controls are cheap these days.
Most cheap consumer speakers boost 100-250 hz for the illusion of plenty of bass. Q = 1.2 instead of 0.7 which is flat. You can do the same, but I play piano and organ, and like to hear the real thing.
Personally, I back my speakers up to a hard 2.5 cm plaster wall to reflect the bass out at me. + 3 db. Drywall (sheet rock) on hollow wall does not reflect as well, so some bass boost in crossover is useful for most rooms even if the speaker is backed up to one wall.
Bass boost in the speaker 50-100 hz is kind of expensive. Bigger box than flat, more excursion in the bass driver required with low distortion. I try for flat bass, then if the speaker is in the middle and bass is wimpy, boost with tone control in the mixer or preamp. My TV speaker is under a coffee table 2.5 m from the wall, ie in the middle. Tone controls are cheap these days.
Most cheap consumer speakers boost 100-250 hz for the illusion of plenty of bass. Q = 1.2 instead of 0.7 which is flat. You can do the same, but I play piano and organ, and like to hear the real thing.
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Baffle step article with some good pictures - when you simulate woofer response (and tweeter response to match it), you can't use the woofer's datasheet SPL curves as is cause then you'd be ignoring the diffraction and relative losses in the lower frequencies based on the cabinet's front baffle dimensions. The datasheet measurements are taken on a standardized infinite baffle so that one can compare apples to apples, so one needs to manipulate it further to do rough sims, assuming it's going into a box/baffle.
A user here wrote a great guide on how you can account for this approximately using vituixcad https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/n6/jt1s30xp6enf.pdf
Another option when just playing around is to use Seas' datasheets as they're the only manufacturer whose graphs are shown with measurements taken in a test box of a given size based on the diameter of the driver, so the baffle effect is already in play, but obviously they won't help if not planning to use a Seas woofer or very different dimensions from their test box.
* edit * I was curious one time, and found the dimensions of the Seas test boxes, then some infinite baffle measurements of a given Seas driver, and then used the approximation guide above to compare vs the datasheet. It's not 100% identical, but the SPL trend is not far off (say 1-2db error margin), and the levels are close enough in the low-end that you can start off a far better simulation than if not accounting for the baffle step.
A user here wrote a great guide on how you can account for this approximately using vituixcad https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/n6/jt1s30xp6enf.pdf
Another option when just playing around is to use Seas' datasheets as they're the only manufacturer whose graphs are shown with measurements taken in a test box of a given size based on the diameter of the driver, so the baffle effect is already in play, but obviously they won't help if not planning to use a Seas woofer or very different dimensions from their test box.
* edit * I was curious one time, and found the dimensions of the Seas test boxes, then some infinite baffle measurements of a given Seas driver, and then used the approximation guide above to compare vs the datasheet. It's not 100% identical, but the SPL trend is not far off (say 1-2db error margin), and the levels are close enough in the low-end that you can start off a far better simulation than if not accounting for the baffle step.
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Here's the link to which I referred above, thank you AllenB:
- https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...sound-small-2-ways-with-cnc-enclosure.420689/
Geoff
- https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...sound-small-2-ways-with-cnc-enclosure.420689/
Geoff