I plan on building @mabat's ce360 out of wood because I have access to cnc machines and I prefer horns/waveguides out of wood 🙂
My proposed crossover is at 800hz because the directivities would match with a 15" and ce360 plus cp380m can play that low and could still extend to highs. I think I will need to go for a bass reflex box to get some bass out of this setup. I like slots so most probably I will have the 15" in its own bass reflex box with slot on the lower front side and add the ce360 waveguide as a self standing unit on top.
I have access to B&C and Beyma 15" woofers. I think 40hz tuning could work with a suitable one . I am open to suggestions, I never played woofers up to 800hz, so I do not exactly know which ones to go for. Do lighter cones have an advantage?
I plan on doing it passive, a LR 24db filter would be ok, I guess.
Any suggestions, pointers or criticisms are welcome.
ps. I have rew and dats and will measure when I build the boxes and waveguides with the drivers to finalize the crossovers.
My proposed crossover is at 800hz because the directivities would match with a 15" and ce360 plus cp380m can play that low and could still extend to highs. I think I will need to go for a bass reflex box to get some bass out of this setup. I like slots so most probably I will have the 15" in its own bass reflex box with slot on the lower front side and add the ce360 waveguide as a self standing unit on top.
I have access to B&C and Beyma 15" woofers. I think 40hz tuning could work with a suitable one . I am open to suggestions, I never played woofers up to 800hz, so I do not exactly know which ones to go for. Do lighter cones have an advantage?
I plan on doing it passive, a LR 24db filter would be ok, I guess.
Any suggestions, pointers or criticisms are welcome.
ps. I have rew and dats and will measure when I build the boxes and waveguides with the drivers to finalize the crossovers.
What do you mean by access to B&C and Beyma woofers ? Do you mean you may have them for trying or you have to purchse them ? If the former I would test more than one. If the latter you will definitely have to make a choice before the build starts.
I myself use two Beyma 15LX60v2 per side in 280 Liters tuned to 30 Hz. But I cross at 650 Hz. 800 Hz might be a little high for this one, considering it has no shorting ring(s). With two per side they never make significant excursions and so IMD stays low. But with only one per side you are probably better off with a driver that has shorting rings.
Earl Geddes used the B&C 15NBX100 IIRC.
Regards
Charles
I myself use two Beyma 15LX60v2 per side in 280 Liters tuned to 30 Hz. But I cross at 650 Hz. 800 Hz might be a little high for this one, considering it has no shorting ring(s). With two per side they never make significant excursions and so IMD stays low. But with only one per side you are probably better off with a driver that has shorting rings.
Earl Geddes used the B&C 15NBX100 IIRC.
Regards
Charles
The original Summa used the 15TBX1000, not sure about the later ones
Woofer is a beast and really heavy
Woofer is a beast and really heavy
In my part of the world, it just means I can go out and buy them, I can not say that for a lot of brands. So, I agree with you, I have to choose before I build.What do you mean by access to B&C and Beyma woofers ? Do you mean you may have them for trying or you have to purchse them ? If the former I would test more than one. If the latter you will definitely have to make a choice before the build starts.
I myself use two Beyma 15LX60v2 per side in 280 Liters tuned to 30 Hz. But I cross at 650 Hz. 800 Hz might be a little high for this one, considering it has no shorting ring(s). With two per side they never make significant excursions and so IMD stays low. But with only one per side you are probably better off with a driver that has shorting rings.
Earl Geddes used the B&C 15NBX100 IIRC.
Regards
Charles
Two per side is great and it would also make the speaker more efficient but it also gets more expensive, so for now I will try and stick to a single 15". I will keep that in mind about the shorting rings, thank you.
I have found 15tbx100, is that what it is? When I model it, I can see that it would be good for mid bass and upper bass but I would surely need subwoofers for lacking the last two octaves. I think that would be the right approach for the best quality but with this project, I have to stick to a 2 way with no subwoofers. In the future, I can make another pair but make it sealed and use with active subwoofers distributed around the room.The original Summa used the 15TBX1000, not sure about the later ones
Woofer is a beast and really heavy
I have already got the beyma cp380m drivers. I am waiting for @mabat to contact me so I can get the right file of ce360 that matches the exit angles of my cd.
So, has anyone tried the Beyma 15lw30? It is quite linear on axis for over an octave above my crossover point, which I believe makes it a good candidate. It can work in a roughly 160lt ported cabinet but I do not think it has shorting rings.
Hello sir,
I'm new here, I've just been "virused" like many here with the so-called sindrom "horn speakers".
Looking for information on the net, I came across a few of your posts and I really liked them.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/full-range-5-way-horn-project.266064/page-15
http://romythecat.com/Forums/PrintPost.aspx?PostID=21984
May I ask you at this time what else you have added to your beautiful system ?
I apologize if I missed any posts on this topic.
Thanks.
I'm new here, I've just been "virused" like many here with the so-called sindrom "horn speakers".
Looking for information on the net, I came across a few of your posts and I really liked them.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/full-range-5-way-horn-project.266064/page-15
http://romythecat.com/Forums/PrintPost.aspx?PostID=21984
May I ask you at this time what else you have added to your beautiful system ?
I apologize if I missed any posts on this topic.
Thanks.