Hello guys, i decide to make my first speakers, and i hope some one will help me with the crossover!
Currently I have amplifier Nad C370, which i love it, and i have two subwoofers with Peerless XLS10 , which is used for movies or just for extra bass, with separate amp and Behringer DCX2496.
I don't like bookshelf speakers and for that i want to make big tower speakers!
The speakers will run in 50 squares room!
This is the drivers wich I decide to use!
Peerless 830668 SLS-263 10
Seas ER18RNX H1456-08
Scanspeak D2608/913000
Currently I have amplifier Nad C370, which i love it, and i have two subwoofers with Peerless XLS10 , which is used for movies or just for extra bass, with separate amp and Behringer DCX2496.
I don't like bookshelf speakers and for that i want to make big tower speakers!
The speakers will run in 50 squares room!
This is the drivers wich I decide to use!
Peerless 830668 SLS-263 10
Seas ER18RNX H1456-08
Scanspeak D2608/913000
A reason they are not all used together, despite their individual merits, is that the sizes are incompatible for a good sounding system. The selection of the large mid, in comparison, brings problems. I suggest you read this Zaph|Audio - ZA-SR71 to find out why this driver was crossed at 1,750Hz.
A more common, and more easily integrated, mid would be 4 to 5 inches.
OK, I see that is not easy to select the best drivers for the project, for that i'm not order the drivers yet!
In the moment i have 4 drivers Peerless XLS10, i make two of them in subwoofers but if we can use them for new project this will be good for me! I see Linkwitz use them i some open project. If i can use this Peerless XLS10, i will have more money for better mid and tweeters.
Can you help me, to select best drivers for 3 way speakers?
The budget is 500-600 euro!
In the moment i have 4 drivers Peerless XLS10, i make two of them in subwoofers but if we can use them for new project this will be good for me! I see Linkwitz use them i some open project. If i can use this Peerless XLS10, i will have more money for better mid and tweeters.
Can you help me, to select best drivers for 3 way speakers?
The budget is 500-600 euro!
I always object to start designing the first speaker with a 3-way.
Besides that, there is a full described project using the Peerless woofer, the Tarkus. See here: Tarkus - undefinition
Ralf
Besides that, there is a full described project using the Peerless woofer, the Tarkus. See here: Tarkus - undefinition
Ralf
If it were me (big IF), I would use two XLS10s in an isobaric configuration, Isobaric loudspeaker - Wikipedia. This gives better bass and halves the cabinet size required for one driver, allowing for more volume for the second driver, of course.
You could then use the 7" SEAS driver as a lower midrange and use something like this, H1304-08 MCA12RC, as the upper midrange. Your choice of tweeter is expensive and other comparable tweeters can be had for half of that cost.
You can experiment with crossover points but starting with, say, 120Hz, 1kHz and 4kHz.
Given you have the active crossover already, it only makes sense you use it for this build. Get some Class D amps, like these, http://store3.sure-electronics.com/audio/audio-amplifier-board-output-power-classification?cat=80&limit=25, and you will be playing music fairly soon.
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oppaaa, A horn tweeter which removes early wall and floor reflections could be desirable. Read Earl Geddes "Directivity in Loudspeaker Systems"
www.gedlee.com/Papers/directivity.pdf
========
You are lucky to have a large home theater room. You will get the best design information if you sketch out your room, speaker locations, and normal seating locations. You can overlay horn directivity patterns like 90degrees x 40d, and 60d x 40d, to observe any benefits at the listners from removing early off-wall reflections.
1) I agree that "full range" front speakers are important, and you should only impulse-tune the front speakers to optimize the sound at the main listening location, and not to ALSO attempt to reduce room bass modes. You should use your subwoofers to smooth out room bass modes. Read Todd Welti and Earl Geddes research on multi-woofer placement.
2) If you still favor using a dome tweeter for broad polar dispersion of the high frequencies in your room layout, your selection of 1"+6"+10" is one good combination. You could use a ported 10" woofer, or for your large room select a 12" woofer with T/S parameters optimzed for tight transient sealed bass. Bass from well designed sealed box woofers just sounds better than from ported box designs. Your subwoofer can cover the final 20-40Hz octave.
----in you budget----
Peerless SLS 830669 - 12" Woofer - Coated Paper Cone $77
Sealed Box; 3 cubic feet, F3 of 40Hz
Vented Box; 4.5 cubic feet, 3" vent by 5" long, F3 of 30Hz. Larger vented box sizes are possible.
-----
Dayton DSA315*8 12" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Woofer 8 Ohm $85
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Get prices for the 6" aluminum cone SB_Acoustics SB17NAC35-8 midrange, and soft cone SB26STC 1" dome, and aluminum cone SB26ADC 1" dome tweeter.
www.gedlee.com/Papers/directivity.pdf
========
You are lucky to have a large home theater room. You will get the best design information if you sketch out your room, speaker locations, and normal seating locations. You can overlay horn directivity patterns like 90degrees x 40d, and 60d x 40d, to observe any benefits at the listners from removing early off-wall reflections.
1) I agree that "full range" front speakers are important, and you should only impulse-tune the front speakers to optimize the sound at the main listening location, and not to ALSO attempt to reduce room bass modes. You should use your subwoofers to smooth out room bass modes. Read Todd Welti and Earl Geddes research on multi-woofer placement.
2) If you still favor using a dome tweeter for broad polar dispersion of the high frequencies in your room layout, your selection of 1"+6"+10" is one good combination. You could use a ported 10" woofer, or for your large room select a 12" woofer with T/S parameters optimzed for tight transient sealed bass. Bass from well designed sealed box woofers just sounds better than from ported box designs. Your subwoofer can cover the final 20-40Hz octave.
----in you budget----
Peerless SLS 830669 - 12" Woofer - Coated Paper Cone $77
Sealed Box; 3 cubic feet, F3 of 40Hz
Vented Box; 4.5 cubic feet, 3" vent by 5" long, F3 of 30Hz. Larger vented box sizes are possible.
-----
Dayton DSA315*8 12" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Woofer 8 Ohm $85
--------
Get prices for the 6" aluminum cone SB_Acoustics SB17NAC35-8 midrange, and soft cone SB26STC 1" dome, and aluminum cone SB26ADC 1" dome tweeter.
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What will be the sound, if i make this project in one,I mean, tweeter, mid and two XLS, like tower speakers?
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The ER18 is a clean, uncoloured driver, the XLS woofers should give you plenty of low bass and deal with BSC if crossed over skillfully. You'd need to keep the baffle width the same as Zaph's design, at least for the upper drivers.
However, as has been hinted at, you'll get better sound stage with a smaller mid driver, say 4" or 5".
However, as has been hinted at, you'll get better sound stage with a smaller mid driver, say 4" or 5".
Are you designing this yourself out of interest or because you can't find a design with the qualities you're looking for. There are many three ways similar to what you describe. The tarkus, mentioned earlier is one, but there are many others. What are you hoping to achieve from this project.
Jeff Bagby designed a woofer to add onto a couple of his two ways. It is somewhat generic in design allowing it to be used with different speakers. If you go down the path above, you might find some useful information. The peerless 10 inch MIGHT work with his design. If you go to meniscus and find the kit it will provide a link to the discussion.
oppaaa, A horn tweeter which removes early wall and floor reflection could be the best solution for listeners in your large room
Attached a 3-way design with a horn tweeter for controlled directivity. $220-$260 parts cost/speaker at PartsExpress USA.
1) uses your four Peerless XLS10 subwoofers in the front speakers
___side-side counter-force woofers = no cabinet vibration
___uses your subwoofer amps with the Behringer DCX2496 active crossovers to Bi-Amp with passive crossovers on the midrange and tweeter
___You would require more extensive DSP power for complex room-mode bass equalization, SO put the XLS10 woofers in the front stereo pair.
2) 12" midrange Eminence DeltaPro 12A is $130 at PartsExpress
___passive crossover circuit available for use with your active LR2/LR4 crossover
3) Peerless 1" compression driver Peerless model DFM-2544R00-08 $65 at PartsExpress
___proven passive crossover ckt available
4) $14 at PartsExpress. B-52 PHRN-1014 1" is 10" x 14" waveguide 90-degreeH x 40-degreeV which can support a 1.2kHz crossover between the 12" midrange
5) cabinet size 46"Hx18"Wx17"D
___18"W will blend well into your large room
Attached a 3-way design with a horn tweeter for controlled directivity. $220-$260 parts cost/speaker at PartsExpress USA.
1) uses your four Peerless XLS10 subwoofers in the front speakers
___side-side counter-force woofers = no cabinet vibration
___uses your subwoofer amps with the Behringer DCX2496 active crossovers to Bi-Amp with passive crossovers on the midrange and tweeter
___You would require more extensive DSP power for complex room-mode bass equalization, SO put the XLS10 woofers in the front stereo pair.
2) 12" midrange Eminence DeltaPro 12A is $130 at PartsExpress
___passive crossover circuit available for use with your active LR2/LR4 crossover
3) Peerless 1" compression driver Peerless model DFM-2544R00-08 $65 at PartsExpress
___proven passive crossover ckt available
4) $14 at PartsExpress. B-52 PHRN-1014 1" is 10" x 14" waveguide 90-degreeH x 40-degreeV which can support a 1.2kHz crossover between the 12" midrange
5) cabinet size 46"Hx18"Wx17"D
___18"W will blend well into your large room
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I'm confused, because someone says better will be smaller 5 inch driver for midrange, and now this Eminence 12 inch midrange driver!
I know this Eminence from this project below, but i dont like the vision-design.
I listen music very loud, and i want my couch to shake when i watch good movies, but i prefer smaller drivers for midrange 6 or 8 inch maximum.
I think you are all like me, you want to listen good music but also to like the speakers. LinenSource probably this will be best speaker configuration for my room , for which i want to thank you, but i want smaller midrange speaker if it posible!
I know this Eminence from this project below, but i dont like the vision-design.
I listen music very loud, and i want my couch to shake when i watch good movies, but i prefer smaller drivers for midrange 6 or 8 inch maximum.
I think you are all like me, you want to listen good music but also to like the speakers. LinenSource probably this will be best speaker configuration for my room , for which i want to thank you, but i want smaller midrange speaker if it posible!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Similar to Tromperie suggestion, you could build a tower with the passive crossover Zaph|Audio - ZA-SR71 in a top sealed volume, and your XLS10's in a bottom sealed volume using your Behringer DCX2496 active crossovers to Bi-Amp. If you build a cabinet wide enough for the XLS10, you can use 45-degree bevels around the top TM baffle section to mimic the physical dimensions of the SR71 cabinet.
You will also find passive crossovers for the popular 6" aluminum cone SB_Acoustics SB17NAC35 midrange and aluminum cone SB26ADC 1" dome tweeter which you can Bi-amp with your XLS10's in one tower. Read a couple reviews to determine if the high detail sound interests you. Your ears have options.
You will also find passive crossovers for the popular 6" aluminum cone SB_Acoustics SB17NAC35 midrange and aluminum cone SB26ADC 1" dome tweeter which you can Bi-amp with your XLS10's in one tower. Read a couple reviews to determine if the high detail sound interests you. Your ears have options.
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