I am starting to collect parts for a 6l6 pp amp build.
Looking for input on experiences with current production tubes ( for cost reasons. )
Both sound quality and tube life/quality.
Looking for input on experiences with current production tubes ( for cost reasons. )
Both sound quality and tube life/quality.
I will certainly recommend the 6L6, any and all types.
🙂 🙂 🙂
🙂 🙂 🙂
JJ makes a good tube. If you buy NOS / used / etc... I'd strongly suggest getting a lifetime supply from the start.
Being I am pursuing the WE design amp I will have to take that into consideration.Do you need the voltage and dissipation ratings of the 6L6GC or would older types be ok? Sometimes there are some good deals on the early versions.
If you are going to make an amp around the 6l6 as opposed to the 6l6gc there are no better deals than than the metal 6l6 tubes. They are the original and sound amazing. You could also look into the 6bg6, an 807 with an octal base. The 807 is essentially a 6l6 with a top cap. The 6bg6 is still a super cheap tube, even cheaper than the 807 and a super deal.I am starting to collect parts for a 6l6 pp amp build.
Looking for input on experiences with current production tubes ( for cost reasons. )
Both sound quality and tube life/quality.
If you want current production 6l6gc I think the Tung Sol branded 7581a are very good as well as the new Golden Lion KT66.
Lots of options, thanks for the input. Metal 6l6 look interesting as dose the 807.
I need to study these a bit more
I need to study these a bit more
If you’re leaning towards the 807 I would probably use the 6bg6. It uses a regular octal base and so would be easier to use other 6l6 types in the future. The base for the 807 is a lot more limiting.
The 1625 is an interesting and less expensive alternative to the 807. Different base yet again and 12.6V filament. I'm thinking of an all 12V WE124 as I have enough tubes and sockets. Also have an decent power transformer with a 12.6V winding.
I agree that the 6BG6 is a fun choice too, especially the "G" version in the ST shape.
I agree that the 6BG6 is a fun choice too, especially the "G" version in the ST shape.
Sylvania 6BG6GA, AKA Super 6BG6. Power dissipation 30W, same as 6L6GC, and 350 V screen rating. Not all Sylvania 6BG6GA are Super. Super (bottom on the attached picture) is taller, has wide plate and big screen cooling flags.
+1 on the Soviet-era 6P3S-E. There's a Romanian guy on eBay selling NOS, NIB quads for $90US + shipping. Bought a few quads from him and the check out OK. Don't be put off by the store name: Soviet Electronic Parts. That's assuming you can live with 6L6GA or GB specs, NOT GC specs.
I would second the 1625. Yes, they need 12.6v for heaters and a special (but easily available) socket, and have a plate cap. These are the kisses of death for commercial products (especially guitar amps), so NOS examples are everywhere, and used ones almost free. Built to ride around in jeeps for WW2, so insanely rugged. Curves of the 6L6/807 family. Buy a couple and hold them in your hand and you'll see what I mean. But don't tell anybody.
All good fortune,
Chris
All good fortune,
Chris
I would second the 1625. Yes, they need 12.6v for heaters and a special (but easily available) socket, and have a plate cap. These are the kisses of death for commercial products (especially guitar amps), so NOS examples are everywhere, and used ones almost free. Built to ride around in jeeps for WW2, so insanely rugged. Curves of the 6L6/807 family. Buy a couple and hold them in your hand and you'll see what I mean. But don't tell anybody.
Thanks for the tip 🙂
Definitely interested in these for a SE build
I'm going to stick to 6l6 tubes for this PP project, trying to stay as faithful to the original design as I can.
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