Hi Thanks for reading. Can i please have a recommendation for a good quality 8" subwoofer.
I purchased an BK electronics bpv500 plate amp, unfortunatly it has a high current output, which is good for bass, but my cheap wharfedale driver could not handle that much current and is distorting all over the place.
So i need an 8" driver, specalised for bass only response, power handling of 200 watts, crossover frequency is 100hz, enclosure volume is 1.8 cubic feet. A driver that is rugged and can take a beating. Budget is £125. Preferably 8 ohms.
Many thanks
I purchased an BK electronics bpv500 plate amp, unfortunatly it has a high current output, which is good for bass, but my cheap wharfedale driver could not handle that much current and is distorting all over the place.
So i need an 8" driver, specalised for bass only response, power handling of 200 watts, crossover frequency is 100hz, enclosure volume is 1.8 cubic feet. A driver that is rugged and can take a beating. Budget is £125. Preferably 8 ohms.
Many thanks
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I guess the cabinet is sealed? A Dayton RSS210HF-4 could fit that space. F6 (what counts for sealed) is 28Hz that way.
Thanks. Do you have a uk supplier for this, close to the £125 budget.
Anyone else have a sub recommnedation. Speak now or forever hold your thing.
Anyone else have a sub recommnedation. Speak now or forever hold your thing.
Wel, i live in the EU (Belgium) so i don't know any UK shops. But you could buy it here (NL) for 149€ which will be more or less at your budget in £.
Looking for a Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 woofer? - SoundImports
Or import it from the US from Parts Express if that is cheaper in the UK after the Brexit:
Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 8" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Looking for a Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 woofer? - SoundImports
Or import it from the US from Parts Express if that is cheaper in the UK after the Brexit:
Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 8" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Wall of Sound list Dayton in their "Our Brands" list but don't have them in their actual webshop, so you may need to contact them to find out more.
No affiliation BTW, just came across them in a google search IIRC.
No affiliation BTW, just came across them in a google search IIRC.
never build this but my car audio friends really like it, good in sealed too.
Visaton TIW 200 XS 8 inch 20.32 cm Subwoofer 120 W 8 Ω | Conrad.com
Visaton TIW 200 XS 8 inch 20.32 cm Subwoofer 120 W 8 Ω | Conrad.com
Thanks for the visaton recommendation, the power handling is a little low, i have used 100 watt subwoofers before and they do struggle, need more like 200 watts.
Any more recommendations please. Are there any good suwoofers out there, good bang for your buck.
Thanks.
Any more recommendations please. Are there any good suwoofers out there, good bang for your buck.
Thanks.
8W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio
higher price but capable of high power, but exceed your budget
with limited budget then you have limited option, why not going bigger like 10 or 12", 1.8cuft is something in that range. there are more option out there
8" is basically a woofer, commonly used in HT package or pc speaker 2.1. go bigger
higher price but capable of high power, but exceed your budget
with limited budget then you have limited option, why not going bigger like 10 or 12", 1.8cuft is something in that range. there are more option out there
8" is basically a woofer, commonly used in HT package or pc speaker 2.1. go bigger
1.8 cu.ft. is pretty large for an 8" driver. Is it a sealed or vented cabinet?
The Dayton Audio DCS208-4 will handle up to 160W linearly in a vented cabinet that's half that size. The driver itself is rated 150W RMS, 300W max. It's a 4 ohm driver however.
The Dayton Audio DCS208-4 will handle up to 160W linearly in a vented cabinet that's half that size. The driver itself is rated 150W RMS, 300W max. It's a 4 ohm driver however.
Thanks.
Unfortunatly i am limited to 8" drivers, these are going to fit into a polk audio enclosure which has the front baffle board already cut for two 8" drivers.
The theory is that large drivers have a large heavy cone, which because of its sheer mass moves more slowly that a smaller cone.
So small cones generally give a fast bass, and heavy cones give a lower but slower bass, that is the general idea not so sure of the actual science.
Polk audio use two 8" subs to give the speed of smaller subs, and with two drivers this gives increased cone area.
I am getting some distortion at high volumes using 4 ohm subs, maybe the amplifer panel does not like low impedance, so am going to try 8 ohms and listen if that distortion goes away.
Will report back. Can't find any information on the dayton audio sub, have you got the right model number.
The box is sealed but i do have a few bass ports in storage so should not be difficult to adjust. Just need to find an on-line calculator for the port dimensions.
Any more sub recommendations please.
Unfortunatly i am limited to 8" drivers, these are going to fit into a polk audio enclosure which has the front baffle board already cut for two 8" drivers.
The theory is that large drivers have a large heavy cone, which because of its sheer mass moves more slowly that a smaller cone.
So small cones generally give a fast bass, and heavy cones give a lower but slower bass, that is the general idea not so sure of the actual science.
Polk audio use two 8" subs to give the speed of smaller subs, and with two drivers this gives increased cone area.
I am getting some distortion at high volumes using 4 ohm subs, maybe the amplifer panel does not like low impedance, so am going to try 8 ohms and listen if that distortion goes away.
Will report back. Can't find any information on the dayton audio sub, have you got the right model number.
The box is sealed but i do have a few bass ports in storage so should not be difficult to adjust. Just need to find an on-line calculator for the port dimensions.
Any more sub recommendations please.
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That makes no sense. Amps do not "urge" speakers. They provide whatever signal you signify according to the volume control setting.
Lots of reasons for bad sound ("distorting all over the place"???). But if the Wharfdale is otherwise in good condition, it is because it is being fed too much signal for its little self to handle. It is possible that the Wharfdale is just inadequate to the loudness you require at the low freq of interest - not that the plate amp is at fault for urging it.
That can arise from you setting the volume too high, some EQ pushing it, or if the driver is ill-matched to the crossover (if any is in place). I'd listen to what the Wharfdale is emitting with other drivers silent.
B.
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If you can swing a pair of the RSS210HO-8 in that volume, run in parallel to 4 ohms, I think you would be very happy!
Wolf
Wolf
Just one last thing, should the panel amp go into the same enclosure as the sub, or should the amp be placed into a seperate enclosure to protect it from the subs air pressure. I have two miller and kreisler subs and the amp panel is placed into the same enclosure as the sub
Benefit of placing the amp directly "in" the box is tat it saves volume. If you make a separate enclosure part this will take up volume which could otherwise have benefitted the drivers to make an overall more optimized outer size.
But ensure the plate amp is fully sealed especially if it has pot meter controls (other wise you'll get whistling)
This is essential in a closed or PR design especially for high output small size where the pressure in the box will be substantial
But ensure the plate amp is fully sealed especially if it has pot meter controls (other wise you'll get whistling)
This is essential in a closed or PR design especially for high output small size where the pressure in the box will be substantial
If you can go up to 1.8 cubic feet of box volume, I really do not see why you would settle for an 8". 1.8 cubic feet is 50 liters ... that is quite a big box and would easily accommodate at least a 12".
But maybe I'm missing something.
Could you state the box measurements you are targeting?