Hi to Everyone
The test is the following in Spanish
https://www.matrixhifi.com/contenedor_ppec.htm
can this test be dependable ?
after reading this my main interest has moved to speakers technology
also because i have one a500 already 😉
The test is the following in Spanish
https://www.matrixhifi.com/contenedor_ppec.htm
can this test be dependable ?
after reading this my main interest has moved to speakers technology
also because i have one a500 already 😉
I think I will share with everyone here in this forum a video-recorded comparison of two transistors, one type, two batches, quite soon;-)
Small fullrange, small SE, laptop, youtube music video and an old small digital camera;-)
... here are so many who write that they have been building and repairing amplifiers for > 50 years, but have never dealt with audio
- the remaining days of live are not getting any longer;-)
Small fullrange, small SE, laptop, youtube music video and an old small digital camera;-)
... here are so many who write that they have been building and repairing amplifiers for > 50 years, but have never dealt with audio
- the remaining days of live are not getting any longer;-)
Hi thank you very much for your valuable advice
I think that the main issue emerging from the test mentioned is that the impact of speakers on the overall sound is more decisive than swapping source and amplification
Could it be that the speakers used were not resolving enough ? i really do not know
they were from Atc A good brand
I think that the main issue emerging from the test mentioned is that the impact of speakers on the overall sound is more decisive than swapping source and amplification
Could it be that the speakers used were not resolving enough ? i really do not know
they were from Atc A good brand
They do not ask a) whether a difference (between the devices) can be heard, and b) how this difference is to be described. They only ask (description) of what they liked more.
A VRDS drive can be regularly cleaned from the dirt on the plate;-)
A lot is lost because of these bridges between the two connections of the speakers (3rd picture in link). Anyone who builds something like this should be flogged with the cables they recommend;-)
I would change a lot about this test. But I'm also not surprised that the cheaper version doesn't perform worse;-)
https://www.hifido.co.jp/sold/?KW=&G=0201&LNG=E&O=9870&L=10&C=10-52481-68299-00
A VRDS drive can be regularly cleaned from the dirt on the plate;-)
A lot is lost because of these bridges between the two connections of the speakers (3rd picture in link). Anyone who builds something like this should be flogged with the cables they recommend;-)
I would change a lot about this test. But I'm also not surprised that the cheaper version doesn't perform worse;-)
https://www.hifido.co.jp/sold/?KW=&G=0201&LNG=E&O=9870&L=10&C=10-52481-68299-00
Thank you very much and honestly i cannot believe the outcome from this test
I find weird that even such expensive speakers use rigid jumpers instead of pieces of speaker wires
Anyway a bad speaker for sure will not be able to reveal the smaller details in sound
I am leaning towards a 3 ways solution these days coming from small bookshelves I think i have narrowed down my requirements
I would love a great playback of voices I will run some checks with recordings with great vocals
I find weird that even such expensive speakers use rigid jumpers instead of pieces of speaker wires
Anyway a bad speaker for sure will not be able to reveal the smaller details in sound
I am leaning towards a 3 ways solution these days coming from small bookshelves I think i have narrowed down my requirements
I would love a great playback of voices I will run some checks with recordings with great vocals
It doesn't look like a double blind test. Only single blind. But I could be mistaken as I don't understand the text. If anyone in the room knew what was under the cover while the test was being conducted this would have been a single blind test. That type of test wouldn't pass muster in any scientific paper. But audio doesn't always have to be science.
Tom
Tom
in the end i am more convinced now that i have to focus speakers and room quite more than source and amp
If we except both systems sounded quite similar, we have to look at the components used.
The cheap one is simple: A CD (or good sounding DVD player like the Sony) directly feeding an neutral pro-amp. IMO you will get the best out of both components by just using such a minimalized combination. Even the cruel cinch cable could not ruin this combo. Objectivly seen, the 15' are just a small resitor.
System 2 is a combination of so called "Hiend" components.
Even the strange connection cable could be enough to ruin the sound. There is nothing that beats a straight, clean wire... Personaly I would never use such nonsense.
Wadia is a controversal Guru, trying to be different. The other components may have some "special" sound signature as well.
If only one of these components sounds wrong, the rest may even be the world best and 100% neutral, the sound will not recover.
So I'm not really surprised of this outcome. Too much "maybe".
The cheap one is simple: A CD (or good sounding DVD player like the Sony) directly feeding an neutral pro-amp. IMO you will get the best out of both components by just using such a minimalized combination. Even the cruel cinch cable could not ruin this combo. Objectivly seen, the 15' are just a small resitor.
System 2 is a combination of so called "Hiend" components.
Even the strange connection cable could be enough to ruin the sound. There is nothing that beats a straight, clean wire... Personaly I would never use such nonsense.
Wadia is a controversal Guru, trying to be different. The other components may have some "special" sound signature as well.
If only one of these components sounds wrong, the rest may even be the world best and 100% neutral, the sound will not recover.
So I'm not really surprised of this outcome. Too much "maybe".
I love the picture of the fancy power cord, about the thickness of a garden hose, plugged into a $5 power strip. 🤣
Similarly, I find it laughable at hifi shows when power cords thicker than my forearms are said to make a huge difference when plugged into a plain NEMA 15 outlet fed by a few hundred meters of standard 12 AWG Romex wire.
Tom
Similarly, I find it laughable at hifi shows when power cords thicker than my forearms are said to make a huge difference when plugged into a plain NEMA 15 outlet fed by a few hundred meters of standard 12 AWG Romex wire.
Tom
Good morning thank you All very much for the very valuable advice
I have a humble personal experience about the fact that speakers over impose their character on all the system
I have a pair of speakers 2 ways with a woofer with Qts close to 1
Changing different amps didn't cure their sluggish bass
Looking at it I could see a very small magnet for its size
I am fighting with space presently but when I will be able to work more easily I will dedicate myself to speakers design for sure
I have a humble personal experience about the fact that speakers over impose their character on all the system
I have a pair of speakers 2 ways with a woofer with Qts close to 1
Changing different amps didn't cure their sluggish bass
Looking at it I could see a very small magnet for its size
I am fighting with space presently but when I will be able to work more easily I will dedicate myself to speakers design for sure
a pair of old Dynaudio msp 110 The woofer is a 24w75
https://www.fanutza.net/Images/24W75-spec-150pp.jpg
i bought them only looking at the brand name and the coil size I love immensely drivers with big coils coming from some destroyed tiny coils
but i will not surrender The idea is to add externally a fast midwoofer in a new cabinet working as a sat that will cover the range from 200 to at least 3kHz Or a full range for the same range and use the original d28 of the msp 110 on the range from 3kHz up
And save also the original enclosure for now to be used as cabinet for the woofer
Fwiu the ear is much less sensitive to low bass that could be sluggish and slow by its nature
The good woofer was the 24w100 Bigger coil diameter bigger magnet lower Qts and much higher cost I guess it is discontinued
That must be a really great solution for bass
I should have checked first Knowing what to look at and i did not know at the time
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😳 i do not understand Sorry The concept i have in mind is quite common for commercial monitor
a head for mid high above a bass cabinet Nothing exotic
It always depends on what you make of it;-)
Here are a few more mechanical, physical facts about loudspeakers in diy audio;-)
If you have compacts, then I would advise you to use such stands. Even then the bass will bubble less.
The woofer should be decoupled and installed clamped. A whole lot can be tuned here in terms of sound, including the treble and mids! A minimal version is shown here. Don't forget to seal the woofer then;-)
Thirdly, a small board on the inside is enough to damp the woofer almost completely. Simply clamp it in a wedge shape. A few attempts can lead to an ideal tuning. Then not much will bounce back onto the woofer cone too.
These are three short and sweet tips that will help this woofer achieve a clean sound. But you have to do it first: diy audio;-) And no experience without doing;-)
Oh: not even mechanical physics is known and respected in audio and hifi)-;
Then you can still get to the electronics: an amplifier with clean bass - but there is almost none here. Head scratching;-)
Power supply unit can be made "bigger".
The usual emitter resistors of the output stages can be used as tuning.
Cables and such are also possible.
And other little things;-)
Here are a few more mechanical, physical facts about loudspeakers in diy audio;-)
If you have compacts, then I would advise you to use such stands. Even then the bass will bubble less.
The woofer should be decoupled and installed clamped. A whole lot can be tuned here in terms of sound, including the treble and mids! A minimal version is shown here. Don't forget to seal the woofer then;-)
Thirdly, a small board on the inside is enough to damp the woofer almost completely. Simply clamp it in a wedge shape. A few attempts can lead to an ideal tuning. Then not much will bounce back onto the woofer cone too.
These are three short and sweet tips that will help this woofer achieve a clean sound. But you have to do it first: diy audio;-) And no experience without doing;-)
Oh: not even mechanical physics is known and respected in audio and hifi)-;
Then you can still get to the electronics: an amplifier with clean bass - but there is almost none here. Head scratching;-)
Power supply unit can be made "bigger".
The usual emitter resistors of the output stages can be used as tuning.
Cables and such are also possible.
And other little things;-)
Attachments
If your present loudspeakers sound good except for a boomy bass, you could try to equalize them with an active filter somewhere between the preamplifier and main amplifier. One (for a closed box loudspeaker) or two (for bass reflex) biquadratic filter stages should do the trick. A Linkwitz transform circuit is a popular type of biquadratic filter stage. You can read all about it on the late Siegfried Linkwitz's website.
If there is more wrong with your present loudspeakers, trying to construct Linkwitz transform circuits would be a waste of time.
And always remember: People, who are able to afford highend equipment, are usually somewhat older. However, starting from age 20 or so, the hearing bandwidth decreases. A lot. At age of retirement, you are almost limited to 12kHz or so - so your super duper DSD audio running at hundreds of kHz is only good for bats in your garden.
Remember (2): Most modern hardware is in the range of "good enough", with the speaker being the by far most influential part of the musical reproduction chain. So to determine a difference in amplifier, or CD-player, you need to try again with way better speakers. And so it is mainly matter, of how much money you want to spend on your speakers. A 100 EUR CD-player will likely sound as good as a 500 EUR CD-player in a standard setup.
That being said, there is no reason, not to go highend though. Going for the technical possible maximum is a fun sport, I like it. However I still stick to "good enough for me" for most parts.
Remember (2): Most modern hardware is in the range of "good enough", with the speaker being the by far most influential part of the musical reproduction chain. So to determine a difference in amplifier, or CD-player, you need to try again with way better speakers. And so it is mainly matter, of how much money you want to spend on your speakers. A 100 EUR CD-player will likely sound as good as a 500 EUR CD-player in a standard setup.
That being said, there is no reason, not to go highend though. Going for the technical possible maximum is a fun sport, I like it. However I still stick to "good enough for me" for most parts.
they are very bad at the so called PRAT I use some disco tracks to test this behaviour The good speakers at PRAT makes me want to dance
These ones sound lazy Not involving Now the woofer covers up to 2kHz A very big portion of the audio range
The fast bass is at around 100-200 Hz So the idea is to use another faster smaller midwoofer to cover the mid bass and the mid Like a driver with a paper cone
But looking at the datasheet i see the very high Qts I guess that this could provide some info about the mechanical behaviour of the driver ?
Like low Qts fast cone High Qts slow cone Just i did not know this
Instead the distortion looks quite low They have saved too much on the magnet And the magnet strength is very important
Thank you very much for your kind and valuable advice
Working inside the cabinet full of lead will be a little unsafe I want to limit the rework to a minimum
Just a new inductor wiring connectors and stop Usually very low bass are also slow They hang in space for seconds
But fast bass provides the PRAT A very important thing in loudspeakers
A speaker bad at PRAT is a failed speaker imho