A quick double check on Crossover value with experienced members

[decommo]

Hello,

I am novice in building DIY speakers and started trying to build a DIY 3way speakers with following drivers.

• Woofer: McCauley Sound 15" Woofer B1560 - 350W RMS, 35 Hz to 1.2 kHz at 8 ohm
• Mid-Range: Faital Pro 6FE200 - 260W RMS, 85 Hz to 6 kHz at 8ohm at 95dB
• Tweeter: JBL Super Tweeter Selenium ST200 - 70W RMS, 2 kHz to 20 kHz at 8 ohm at 105db

I entered values into Crossover calculator and got this outcome.

Can anyone help me if I entered the correct value and is the ideal crossover value on caps, inductors and resistors?

I guess that the ideal way is to get a measuring microphone and measure the actual impedance and build a crossover but I do not have measuring microphone at this stage so would like to go with driver specs if possible.

Any feedback would be hugely appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[giralfino]

Crossover calculators are useless. They work on the assumption of a flat Frequency Response (FR), and a flat impedance. A real speaker driver has none of those qualities over a wide range of frequencies, and more often than not the nominal impedance is different from the real one at the chosen crossover frequency. So you can think that choosing a crossover frequency where the FR and impedance of the driver is flat, and inputting the real impedance into the calculator will do the trick. The answer is maybe, but then only for a in-wall speaker, because speakers placed into a room suffer from the baffle step effect, and if not taken into account will lead to a bass thin speaker.
The best method for designing a crossover is to measure. If you can't you have to simulate the effect of the baffle and use a simulator for the crossover design. Have a look at this sticky thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...igning-crossovers-without-measurement.189847/

Ralf

 

[decommo]

Crossover calculators are useless. They work on the assumption of a flat Frequency Response (FR), and a flat impedance. A real speaker driver has none of those qualities over a wide range of frequencies, and more often than not the nominal impedance is different from the real one at the chosen crossover frequency. So you can think that choosing a crossover frequency where the FR and impedance of the driver is flat, and inputting the real impedance into the calculator will do the trick. The answer is maybe, but then only for a in-wall speaker, because speakers placed into a room suffer from the baffle step effect, and if not taken into account will lead to a bass thin speaker.
The best method for designing a crossover is to measure. If you can't you have to simulate the effect of the baffle and use a simulator for the crossover design. Have a look at this sticky thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...igning-crossovers-without-measurement.189847/

Ralf

Thank you so much, Ralf. I will definitely check the sticky thread that you referred. It looks like very thorougly explained the steps and lots of goodies in there.

 

[Keats]

Crossover calculators are useless. They work on the assumption of a flat Frequency Response (FR), and a flat impedance. A real speaker driver has none of those qualities over a wide range of frequencies, and more often than not the nominal impedance is different from the real one at the chosen crossover frequency. So you can think that choosing a crossover frequency where the FR and impedance of the driver is flat, and inputting the real impedance into the calculator will do the trick. The answer is maybe, but then only for a in-wall speaker, because speakers placed into a room suffer from the baffle step effect, and if not taken into account will lead to a bass thin speaker.
The best method for designing a crossover is to measure. If you can't you have to simulate the effect of the baffle and use a simulator for the crossover design. Have a look at this sticky thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...igning-crossovers-without-measurement.189847/

Ralf

You sound like a man who knows a thing or two re crossovers. Would a crossover from a celestion 44 work in a pair of the lesser power handling celestion ditton 15XR? or could components from both make a as good or better one? Please excuse my ignorance in advance