So Dv247 have let me down on the 4 tins of warnex that I will be using to paint some new subs. I'd ordered these nearly 2 weeks ago and should have been delivered last week but the tracking says they are still somewhere in Germany (at a guess). fail!
Assuming these arent going to turn up before thursday I need an alternative which I can just go and buy in somewhere like B&Q or even a specialist paint centre. any ideas? Would furniture paint be any good?
Assuming these arent going to turn up before thursday I need an alternative which I can just go and buy in somewhere like B&Q or even a specialist paint centre. any ideas? Would furniture paint be any good?
In an emergency I would buy water based car/truck underside cover paint.
Typically available in black only (at least in an "average" shop), surface is not bright but somewhat dull, but hey, it works, texture and all (either by a custom spray gun or foam/wool roller) , it will save you this weekend and when Warnex arrives, you can add a nicer extra coat.
You can do the job today, and then let it dry a couple days until the party/show, every day it dries it gets better, not too strong for the first 24 hours so don´t waste time.
Plan B: absolute worst case, paint cabinet with black "outdoors" acrylic paint, I always use Sherwin Williams Loxon; no texture at all, dull black finish, but it will save the day, definitely better than going with exposed bare wood surfaces and it will work as a base/sealer for a later Warnex surface.
Last Month I had to supply a 4 x 12" Bass Guitar cabinet on a HURRY!!!! 😉 for a show and I did that, no time for a Tolexing job.
From close up you can see it´s just black paint; on stage and from any seat, "as good as Tolex"
Being water based, it dries in less than an hour.
Typically available in black only (at least in an "average" shop), surface is not bright but somewhat dull, but hey, it works, texture and all (either by a custom spray gun or foam/wool roller) , it will save you this weekend and when Warnex arrives, you can add a nicer extra coat.
You can do the job today, and then let it dry a couple days until the party/show, every day it dries it gets better, not too strong for the first 24 hours so don´t waste time.
Plan B: absolute worst case, paint cabinet with black "outdoors" acrylic paint, I always use Sherwin Williams Loxon; no texture at all, dull black finish, but it will save the day, definitely better than going with exposed bare wood surfaces and it will work as a base/sealer for a later Warnex surface.
Last Month I had to supply a 4 x 12" Bass Guitar cabinet on a HURRY!!!! 😉 for a show and I did that, no time for a Tolexing job.
From close up you can see it´s just black paint; on stage and from any seat, "as good as Tolex"
Being water based, it dries in less than an hour.
Last edited:
Halfrauds do Hammerite underbody seal (with added waxoyl whatever that is). Any good? The reviews suggests its gloopy horrible stuff that's more or less impossible to get off clothing etc. Sounds like it might work, then 🙂
how about this stuff (roof sealing paint))?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/thompsons-10-year-roof-seal-black-2-5ltr/46708
https://www.screwfix.com/p/thompsons-10-year-roof-seal-black-2-5ltr/46708
It will work to solve this week´s problem and that´s good enough.
Practically same as my suggested "Loxon" paint.
Just paint, no texture, no voids filling or blemishes hiding, but I doubt Party goers will notice or care, and later you fully finish with the German product.
Just out of curiosity, show us your black Acrylic painted cabinets 🙂
Practically same as my suggested "Loxon" paint.
Just paint, no texture, no voids filling or blemishes hiding, but I doubt Party goers will notice or care, and later you fully finish with the German product.
Just out of curiosity, show us your black Acrylic painted cabinets 🙂
I use white spray-on Rust-O-Leum flat. It isn't quite as pretty as a perfect mirror gloss, but it hides minor imperfections and looks like a classy matte plastic speaker material. It's also a suitable undercoat for later experimentation.
I'll be trying this https://www.raptorcoatings.com/uk/en-uk/products#.YsSLVuzTVkw
When I finally get my current PA build finished.
When I finally get my current PA build finished.
I used to use Black Hammerite (hammered finish) for speakers years ago and it was veery good and had a really nice textured finish but the modern stuff isn't anywhere near as good.
I also tried garage floor paint for my workshop worktop sufaces and it been really good too ... 🙂
I also tried garage floor paint for my workshop worktop sufaces and it been really good too ... 🙂
Yes, I couldnt find Loxon for pick up so hunted for something similar. Thanks for the tip. That roofing repair paint seems by far the best option but the data sheet looked a bit toxic and the drying time wasnt great either. Perhaps another day that stuff might work assuming plenty of drying time and good ventilation in a work shop, or something.
I will post a picture once done.
Yes i looked at floor paints, and step paint. They were long drying times between coats, and time is a luxury I don't have on this occasion 🙁
Probably too late, but have you considered wrinkle paint?? Available at any big box store or auto paint store. Dries with a wrinkle finish and is very tough. Painted the transmission on my old Pan Head Harley several years ago and still looks good. can get it in rattle cans or by the pint. Would look nice on a PA system imho. good luck with whatever you choose. Regards, J.D.
When I first started putting this stuff on (Barn Paint) I thought it was just warnex at 40% of the price, but slightly less gloopy. result. It behaved the same in terms of drying time (not quite as fast) and how it created a bit of texture with the form roller. However, once dried it was obviously different. A much more matt finish with no texture so it doesn't hide imperfections. There are a lot in my cabinets as I havent had time to really prep them properly along with running out of decent sanding belts. It goes on very nicely and seems happy sticking to filler. However, it does have the same characteristic of Warnex that when painting it over glue it allows some discolouration / greying / whitening of the paint to bleed through.
Its a decent enough finish in its own right and will do for now, but I'd say this stuff would make a cheap alternative for doing several undercoats before applying a final few coats of Warnex.
Thanks.
Not bad at all, quite usable for a rental/own use cabinet finish; one advantage is that when it ends up scratched after a few weekends you can easily apply a single cot over and not everywhere, just in the scratched area, and it´s s good s new.
At least as good as you show here.
Obviously, it´s a "paint", yet it differs from Warnex and others only in degree.
* Basic paint such as this one, is a water based acrylic base, almost transparent by itself, which in fact you will see if you open cans after a long time undisturbed on a shelf: a "transparent glue" layer on top, solids and pigments at the bottom, which you have to re-mix.
* Undercarriage sealer is almost same, but with lots of solids added, so it is thicker and keeps sprayer or roller texture when it dries, is not self leveling (which paint is).
* Duracoat, Warnex, etc, same thing even more solids, but also additives which make it harden more, and surface stay/become "shiny"
Something I did sometimes, not suggested here because you have the real thing coming anyway, I applied undercoat with a roller,let it dry (dull, grayish) and sprayed a top coat of black car type paint, which I also use on my front panels, and some speaker frames.
"Almost" like the real thing in a pinch, but not cheaper, "not the same" and takes longer overall, but it saved some weekend or two.
Please post final result when you apply warnex 🙂
Not bad at all, quite usable for a rental/own use cabinet finish; one advantage is that when it ends up scratched after a few weekends you can easily apply a single cot over and not everywhere, just in the scratched area, and it´s s good s new.
At least as good as you show here.
Obviously, it´s a "paint", yet it differs from Warnex and others only in degree.
* Basic paint such as this one, is a water based acrylic base, almost transparent by itself, which in fact you will see if you open cans after a long time undisturbed on a shelf: a "transparent glue" layer on top, solids and pigments at the bottom, which you have to re-mix.
* Undercarriage sealer is almost same, but with lots of solids added, so it is thicker and keeps sprayer or roller texture when it dries, is not self leveling (which paint is).
* Duracoat, Warnex, etc, same thing even more solids, but also additives which make it harden more, and surface stay/become "shiny"
Something I did sometimes, not suggested here because you have the real thing coming anyway, I applied undercoat with a roller,let it dry (dull, grayish) and sprayed a top coat of black car type paint, which I also use on my front panels, and some speaker frames.
"Almost" like the real thing in a pinch, but not cheaper, "not the same" and takes longer overall, but it saved some weekend or two.
Please post final result when you apply warnex 🙂
Mids / Tops are Warnex painted, subs not. Certainly from a distance / in dubious lighting you cant really tell the difference
I tried Benjamin Moore Command "waterborne acrylic urethane enamel."
Dries to touch in 15 mins. Super durable.
Thin coverage, I needed primer + 3 coats using semi-gloss white.
You will get a light textured "orange peel" finish with a fleece roller.
I like it.
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/contractors/corotech-high-performance-coatings/corotech-command
Dries to touch in 15 mins. Super durable.
Thin coverage, I needed primer + 3 coats using semi-gloss white.
You will get a light textured "orange peel" finish with a fleece roller.
I like it.
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/contractors/corotech-high-performance-coatings/corotech-command
That reminds me of Hammerite (hammered finish) from decades ago ... I remember having to pour it straight from the can onto the surface and trying to spread it as quickly as possible as it dried and it had a really aesthetically nice textured finish when dry (wood or metal).
Modern hammerite is made from kiddies food safe play paint ... 🙁