Hi guys, it's funny how our interests come and go and then come back as years pass by, and I've been on many journeys since I last posted on this forum.
Any hoo, I hope I'm posting in the right place here.
I purchased a pair of pre loved Sony SS-S9 6 ohm 120 watt speakers cheep $20 for the purpose of setting up a class D blue tooth sound system for my Daughter and Son in law.
I use the same amp on my old floor standing Sansui 3 way speakers and they sound wonderful, however I was very disappointed in the performance of the Sony speakers.
There is no brightness to them at any volume. very little high's and mids. These speaker had some good reviews in the past so I expected a little better. I disassembled one of them to find no crossover at all. I'd like to see if I can bring some life into them in a minimalist sort of way. I have to admit that I'm struggling with the whole crossover design thing. I can understand how a crossover can be designed around speakers with known values, but I don't get how one can work around a 3 way speaker system with no data. In fact I don't even get how one can purchase a generic crossover to work on un known speakers. I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to answer these questions for myself with no satisfaction.
The Sansui speakers I use are 40 year old S-915 8ohm 120 watt. They kick ***.
Any input would be greatly appreciated,
regards to all,
Walt.
Any hoo, I hope I'm posting in the right place here.
I purchased a pair of pre loved Sony SS-S9 6 ohm 120 watt speakers cheep $20 for the purpose of setting up a class D blue tooth sound system for my Daughter and Son in law.
I use the same amp on my old floor standing Sansui 3 way speakers and they sound wonderful, however I was very disappointed in the performance of the Sony speakers.
There is no brightness to them at any volume. very little high's and mids. These speaker had some good reviews in the past so I expected a little better. I disassembled one of them to find no crossover at all. I'd like to see if I can bring some life into them in a minimalist sort of way. I have to admit that I'm struggling with the whole crossover design thing. I can understand how a crossover can be designed around speakers with known values, but I don't get how one can work around a 3 way speaker system with no data. In fact I don't even get how one can purchase a generic crossover to work on un known speakers. I've spent the last couple of weeks trying to answer these questions for myself with no satisfaction.
The Sansui speakers I use are 40 year old S-915 8ohm 120 watt. They kick ***.
Any input would be greatly appreciated,
regards to all,
Walt.
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The capacitors are the crossover, but yes I see your point.
So they aren't being attenuated by resistance, if you are to get more out of the tweeters you'll either have to open up their frequency range, and in addition find they perform better if you move to second order filters.. and then consider low passing the lower drivers to suit.. or maybe replace them with something else?
So they aren't being attenuated by resistance, if you are to get more out of the tweeters you'll either have to open up their frequency range, and in addition find they perform better if you move to second order filters.. and then consider low passing the lower drivers to suit.. or maybe replace them with something else?
I think that possibly the previous owner had removed the original crossover... As an improvement ! 😆🤔
Did you searched the web about your SONY loudspeaker model for the schematic of the crossover - or any info about it ?
Did you traced the schematic of the actual (simplistic) crossover of your loudspeakers ?
T
Did you searched the web about your SONY loudspeaker model for the schematic of the crossover - or any info about it ?
Did you traced the schematic of the actual (simplistic) crossover of your loudspeakers ?
T
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No one removed anything, that's how they were made at the factory, like many others. One or two capacitors, that's all. Pure improvisation.
Midbass works full range as much as it can, then a tweeter with one capacitor is added, and finally a super tweeter again with one capacitor.
Due to the natural increase in impedance of these speakers with frequency, it is feasible that way, so the total impedance does not drop too low.
I don't think it's worth any investment, making a proper crossover and the like.
This cannot be done without measuring equipment. It takes a lot of effort and time.
Midbass works full range as much as it can, then a tweeter with one capacitor is added, and finally a super tweeter again with one capacitor.
Due to the natural increase in impedance of these speakers with frequency, it is feasible that way, so the total impedance does not drop too low.
I don't think it's worth any investment, making a proper crossover and the like.
This cannot be done without measuring equipment. It takes a lot of effort and time.
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OK, I see.
So I would not loose my time too much. The Tweeter and Midrange are rather here for "decorative pupose"; if I can say so... Yes, there were a great numbers of speakers build that way. Put 1µF with the tweeter, 4.7µF for the midrange, nothing else and hear how it sounds...
T
Yep they are factory, I think I'll go back to my original idea and purchase some decant driver and build my own from scratch in stead of being a cheapskate.
Buy some decent speakers, that play solidly, and then upgrade them by replacing the internal wiring, speaker connectors and capacitors in the crossover.
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But first do the following, replace that bipolar electrolytic cap in the Sony, it is responsible for reproducing part of the mid and high frequencies. Bypass it with a 1uF polypropylene cap.
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Fun low cost speaker.
Would need measurements on the baffle.
To create a predictable response, that would make the components needed
to make it worth it.
Could be done.
But there is established designs, with already designed
crossovers to remove that process for starters.
But still require DIY.
Plenty of suggestions im sure offered by members, could look Here
for a wide range of projects where you buy drivers
and crossover parts and build the enclosure.
Would need measurements on the baffle.
To create a predictable response, that would make the components needed
to make it worth it.
Could be done.
But there is established designs, with already designed
crossovers to remove that process for starters.
But still require DIY.
Plenty of suggestions im sure offered by members, could look Here
for a wide range of projects where you buy drivers
and crossover parts and build the enclosure.
Not sure which driver is base and mid, they look almost identical, one has a slightly wider coil? any clues?
I imagine the convex dustcap to be the midbass, and concave dustcap to be the woofer. At least that seems to be the norm for something like this.
The speakers are 8 ohm, mid is closer to 10 ohms, they are all connected in parallel and there are 2 caps on the in put in series with the po +
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Yes. Changing the tille will not affect the sound. It will still suck. All will be well.