Hi my friends .. someone have a service manual or schematic diagram of Analogue Audio Aria 2.0 ??
https://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/aria_e.html I have saw probably this manual in "hifi engine forum" but the registration is closed 🙁
I have one of this, power led go on and sometimes off to interval, but at the output no signal
Thanky you for your help
https://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/aria_e.html I have saw probably this manual in "hifi engine forum" but the registration is closed 🙁
I have one of this, power led go on and sometimes off to interval, but at the output no signal
Thanky you for your help
Chech those 5V relay to see if they are exited or not. And the voltage at the opamps. I see a switching converter near the midle of the board, upside as it is posted (There is a drum core inductor). Peehaps it's failed.
Thank you Osvaldo, I'm posting another photo to see better,
I hope that some good soul post the service manual. I have taken out one capacitor because it looked bloated.. but no.
the middle relays not have the 5 V the other yes, there is the 24 V there is +12 and -12 there is 5 V
without manual isn't too easy
I hope that some good soul post the service manual. I have taken out one capacitor because it looked bloated.. but no.
the middle relays not have the 5 V the other yes, there is the 24 V there is +12 and -12 there is 5 V
without manual isn't too easy
The big cap near the top-left hand looks ugly. Is it infled?
Check the components and proper job of the buck rugulator around L301.
Check the components and proper job of the buck rugulator around L301.
without manual isn't too easy
Actually it is. Such a simple circuit. Any minimally competent technician will sort this out in less than ten minutes. The only issue is the silly little pcbs covering the pins of the input opamps.
Yep, big caps are not the usual suspects and this one also caught my eyeThe big cap near the top-left hand looks ugly. Is it infled?
Check the components and proper job of the buck rugulator around L301.
Also, does T301 even touches the heatsink ? Looks like something like a nylon screw insulator gets in the way.
My strategy woulb be: voltages of all regulators and signal after the first set of OPAs. First suspect small electrolytics especially near hot elements.
Naah, twelve minutes most certainly, take in account the time being froustrated for not having a burnt part screaming 'it's me, it's me'.Actually it is. Such a simple circuit. Any minimally competent technician will sort this out in less than ten minutes. The only issue is the silly little pcbs covering the pins of the input opamps.
yes it is inflate, but I don't think that's the problemThe big cap near the top-left hand looks ugly. Is it infled?
yes sure ... is strange that the power led go off to interval, and the voltage +24 +12 -12 and 5 V are present.. but never go on the relay RL301Check the components and proper job of the buck rugulator around L301.
it is not isolated from heatsinkAlso, does T301 even touches the heatsink ? Looks like something like a nylon screw insulator gets in the way.
Usually I don't even remove the screws that repair themselves in 4 minutes.. but this is worse.. do you at least know how this type of power supply works?? VIRTUAL BATTERY tells you anything??Actually it is. Such a simple circuit. Any minimally competent technician will sort this out in less than ten minutes. The only issue is the silly little pcbs covering the pins of the input opamps.
The power supply is the only slightly complicated bit here, but wasn't it already established the power rails were all ok? Why even mention it if it works?
Replaced the swollen capacitor but the defect persisted, the voltages are there but there is no output signal. After also replacing a transistor that drives the rl302 relay now you can hear it clicking, but I tested a few times, the relay is powered by 5 volts you can hear the click but no signal comes out, it could be the damaged relay. Tomorrow.. other test..
The power supply is particular, there are two banks of capacitors, each bank is 117,000 uF and they are charged alternately. The bank that is being charged, during charging is disconnected from the preamp, during that time the other bank powers the preamp so the bank that powers the preamplifier is never connected to the power supply. It is not easy... there are two comparators... and an X-bridge interconnect between the two banks of capacitors, the preamp and the power supply.The power supply is the only slightly complicated bit here, but wasn't it already established the power rails were all ok? Why even mention it if it works?
Again, why bring this up if it works? Nothing new or original there either. Using a really crappy dc power source and wondering how to extract a reasonable sound. Trichord did the the same 20+ years ago, not sure how AA did not infringe upon their patent.
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/f2/ca/da/4ade4ae3377484/US20040008529A1.pdf
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/f2/ca/da/4ade4ae3377484/US20040008529A1.pdf
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