I want to glue wood plate to metal plate and would like to know if someone had similar thoughts and experiences what
does work best and what not...Any ideas????
Thanks....
does work best and what not...Any ideas????
Thanks....
I used Pattex classic contact adhesive by Henkel. The solvent should be able to diffuse into the wood and eventually dry out.
https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/patt...hesive-pcl4c-125-g-pattex-cl-125-p227551.html
https://www.reichelt.com/de/en/patt...hesive-pcl4c-125-g-pattex-cl-125-p227551.html
You could try J-P Weld, two pot glue. messy but works really well. Long qure thime though.
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^^^…and rough up the surface of the metal, and blow/vacuum all the dust out of the wood.
Or use the construction adhesive from hardware stores, beats nails, etc. That stuff takes a while to set up though.
Or use the construction adhesive from hardware stores, beats nails, etc. That stuff takes a while to set up though.
Epoxy: check West Systems for good information on how to bond metal & wood (they've been doing it for boats for years).
Urethane glues, whether construction adhesive or Gorilla.
And as stated above, abrade the metal to enhance the mechanical grip. Also, don't clamp hard because you'll force the adhesive out of the joint and starve it.
Urethane glues, whether construction adhesive or Gorilla.
And as stated above, abrade the metal to enhance the mechanical grip. Also, don't clamp hard because you'll force the adhesive out of the joint and starve it.
If the joint is going to see force, or flexing, use screws and / or bolts also.
Wood does dry out over a period of time, so select a durable variety.
Avoid woods like pine and eucalyptus, they give off resin.
I would use epoxy applied to clean dry surfaces after using abrasion, as above. Clamp / support while setting.
The other glues ...no experience, never tried them.
Wood does dry out over a period of time, so select a durable variety.
Avoid woods like pine and eucalyptus, they give off resin.
I would use epoxy applied to clean dry surfaces after using abrasion, as above. Clamp / support while setting.
The other glues ...no experience, never tried them.
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Frankly, I do not understand the need to glue them together, maybe a cabinet?
In the old radios, the chassis was fastened using screws to the wooden cabinet. No adhesive was used, IIRC.
So, if possible, enlighten us about the project.
In the old radios, the chassis was fastened using screws to the wooden cabinet. No adhesive was used, IIRC.
So, if possible, enlighten us about the project.
Thank you for all the info! I should be more specific about my task. So I want to
glue panzerholz to steinless steel plates. This is for a turntable project. I dont want to use screws and bolts as
the material should damp and insolate!
glue panzerholz to steinless steel plates. This is for a turntable project. I dont want to use screws and bolts as
the material should damp and insolate!
Gravity is already your friend in this application.
I think an elastic bonding sealant would be most suitable for your purpose.
Like this stuff here: https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-c...Seal/31083005041106.cyid/3108.cgid/en/GB/GBP/
Use a solvent based adhesive, not water based. Something like "construction adhesive" which does not require clamping
Epoxy is used on flex surfaces like fibreglass, carbon fibre, ply....fishing rods, just get a suitable one man. If you are worried about flex, just pour some on paper and when set, bend the paper. Nice easy test, most epoxy will bend like plastic first
But I use a clear, non-expanding PU glue to attach small bits of metal to other things. Like a disc of metal to the end of a wooden handle for trim
Don't rough up, just take the shine off with genuine scotchbrite. This does sciencey things that I am too slow to understand to electron alignment things for a better grip, then just roughened up. It's called water break free surface. Spray some water on the prepared surface and if it clings in a film, you are ready with the best possible painting and gluing surface. This isn't exactly secret knowledge, and I am aware of a number of professionals in the boat building who will advise roughening up but use water break free themselves
Prepare wood to a clean surface using sanding sealer and do a final light wet sand followed by some brite on it too
But don't stop thinking, regular epoxy is easily cooked by heat. Metals make great heat absorbers. If it's going to get hot, than use PU. I have done boil tests on both and most PU that I have access to handle 100 degrees Celsius easy. I do boil larger items to dismantle an epoxy joint 😉
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As I stated previously, surface area is a factor. Epoxy will work but considering that it's a turntable chassis, mixing enough epoxy to cover the entire area seems a bit cumbersome. 1 tube of solvent based adhesive will be easier to apply and less expensive. Keep it simple.
Here is one example but there are many other brands......
https://www.liquidnails.com/
Here is one example but there are many other brands......
https://www.liquidnails.com/
My apologies for contradicting both you and I. In this application, epoxy is an easier and better solution. Why, think again. Epoxy is designed to be machine spreadable e.g. a rod lathe. The turntable is a natural lathe and will make the task of applying epoxy easier. Use a stiff brush and clean up with white vinegar
Epoxy?
I wonder how many kilos are used in a 787 airplane, which is largely composite...a good choice for bonding.
The quick setting ones may not be as strong as the regular 24 hour curing varieties.
In a turntable, I would calculate the mass of the screws, and the damping factor distortion, then make my choice.
You do need a gasket, to fill the gaps.
Now, the material used for the wood, there are many choices.
A heavy steel platter, with a cork mat may be better, if well supported on elastic rubber bearings.
Those will be good for isolation.
I wonder how many kilos are used in a 787 airplane, which is largely composite...a good choice for bonding.
The quick setting ones may not be as strong as the regular 24 hour curing varieties.
In a turntable, I would calculate the mass of the screws, and the damping factor distortion, then make my choice.
You do need a gasket, to fill the gaps.
Now, the material used for the wood, there are many choices.
A heavy steel platter, with a cork mat may be better, if well supported on elastic rubber bearings.
Those will be good for isolation.