Apparently it's Yamaha's answer to the tripath 2024 class d chip.
Yamaha YDA138 E Class D Power Amplifier Board | eBay
IMO, the 2024 is the best sounding tripath chip, tho it,s low power and has a few minor sonic drawbacks. I.m curious to know how Yamaha stacks up here.
Back in the 80,s and 90,s Yamaha made good performing audio, and it was the only Japanese speakers that I thought sounded pretty good.
Yamaha YDA138 E Class D Power Amplifier Board | eBay
IMO, the 2024 is the best sounding tripath chip, tho it,s low power and has a few minor sonic drawbacks. I.m curious to know how Yamaha stacks up here.
Back in the 80,s and 90,s Yamaha made good performing audio, and it was the only Japanese speakers that I thought sounded pretty good.
Back in the 80,s and 90,s Yamaha made good performing audio
If that chip sounds anything like the Class AB "Natural Sound" crap that Yamaha made back then, then I think it's pretty safe to assume that the term "bright" won't even begin to describe the sound.
Sprinkle in a little Class D brightness of it own and I think it will be pretty much unlistenable.😱
Looks like that chip has been discussed before here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/122266-scythe-kama-bay-amp.html
Thanks for the link...odd in that I did a search of the chip in the forums b4 posting and nothing came up.
Too bad the results of the listening test never made it onto a post.
I,ve never noticed the overly bright character you describe, either in Yamaha,s AB amps or in class D chips, maybe I just prefer forward highs.
The ta2024 surprised me when I first heard it, to me it has a smooth, detailed sound with good stage and non-fatiguing character. The bass is a little subdued, the power less than I,d like, but all in all a sweet sounding (and cheap) amp to my ears.
If the Yamaha chip sounds better than the tripath, I'll happily order one.
Too bad the results of the listening test never made it onto a post.
I,ve never noticed the overly bright character you describe, either in Yamaha,s AB amps or in class D chips, maybe I just prefer forward highs.
The ta2024 surprised me when I first heard it, to me it has a smooth, detailed sound with good stage and non-fatiguing character. The bass is a little subdued, the power less than I,d like, but all in all a sweet sounding (and cheap) amp to my ears.
If the Yamaha chip sounds better than the tripath, I'll happily order one.
I've heard the 2024 and think it sounds pretty good. From what I've read it's classified as a Class T chip, not Class D.
Personally, I think if the Yamaha chip was so great or comparable to the 2024, there would be a LOT information more about it here on the ole' interweb.
Personally, I think if the Yamaha chip was so great or comparable to the 2024, there would be a LOT information more about it here on the ole' interweb.
Don't know anything about their D chips, but I am familiar with some Yamaha products. The word "bright" would be the last term I would use to describe them. If anything, I always found them pretty laid back. I owned NS1000M's way back, then Yamaha tuners, then a receiver for a second system, then a couple CD/SACD players at different price points. Never heard brightness come from any of them. In fact, I frequently used ancillary equipment (IC's, speaker cables, replaced coupling caps) to try to liven them up. I now use a Yamaha pro amp for bass duties in my actively crossed speakers. I have tried it full range, and it sounded somewhat veiled, lacking finer detail in the highs, certainly not bright. It does work well for bass, however.
Can you cite a specific example of bright sounding equipment from Yamaha?
Peace,
Tom E
Can you cite a specific example of bright sounding equipment from Yamaha?
Peace,
Tom E
I remember back in the early 80,s I was an engineer at a TV station and a Sony rep came to our engineers meeting to demo a new technology called a CD player. He had a Sony amp to hook the large thing up to.
My immediate impression was that the music was very, very bright, sibilant, jarring. Sure, it showed great clarity and low noise floor, but that wincingly sharp upper register...obviously they,ve come a long way.
My immediate impression was that the music was very, very bright, sibilant, jarring. Sure, it showed great clarity and low noise floor, but that wincingly sharp upper register...obviously they,ve come a long way.
mastering allso has a lot to do with it.
when cd-s came popular for some lunatic reason i have faild yet to find out,
records simply got a boost in treble, making everything ever since far too bright for my taste.
with some eq it can be cured, i just don't know why on earth do they have to hammer eq on treble with absoholutely no darn good reason to do so.
when cd-s came popular for some lunatic reason i have faild yet to find out,
records simply got a boost in treble, making everything ever since far too bright for my taste.
with some eq it can be cured, i just don't know why on earth do they have to hammer eq on treble with absoholutely no darn good reason to do so.
My guess is that they were trying to compensate for the fact that many who listened to music in their cars and the acoustic environment that presented would benefit from boosted highs, ironic that it has been the bass that,s been chosen as the holy grail for car audio in the past several decades. More beat, less lyrics.
Just as an aside, when I worked the master control board the tv spots were almost always recorded HOT, I mean they would come from the ad agencies that produced the spots so hot that the needle nearly bent over the peg. I would manually ride the levels during the commercials to throttle back the level. 30 yrs later, I think the practice still dominates.
Just as an aside, when I worked the master control board the tv spots were almost always recorded HOT, I mean they would come from the ad agencies that produced the spots so hot that the needle nearly bent over the peg. I would manually ride the levels during the commercials to throttle back the level. 30 yrs later, I think the practice still dominates.
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Hi
its allways the same: when a chip is hyped as good, more and more People buy it an "hear" the difference.
I took the YDA138 board out of a Scythe and modified it with better Input Caps, Air Core coils an so on, supplied by a Lead Acid Battery, buffered with Caps.
I have compared with Class A amps (Hiraga), F5, Tripath2021b, 2020, 2024, even to TPA 3116.
The Sound differences between all of them are hard to distinguish, when used high efficient Speakers- in my System.
May be there are more differences with small, inefficient Speakers - but the Sound of all of them is remarkable good.
best...
its allways the same: when a chip is hyped as good, more and more People buy it an "hear" the difference.
I took the YDA138 board out of a Scythe and modified it with better Input Caps, Air Core coils an so on, supplied by a Lead Acid Battery, buffered with Caps.
I have compared with Class A amps (Hiraga), F5, Tripath2021b, 2020, 2024, even to TPA 3116.
The Sound differences between all of them are hard to distinguish, when used high efficient Speakers- in my System.
May be there are more differences with small, inefficient Speakers - but the Sound of all of them is remarkable good.
best...
ru.aliexpress.com/item/XH-M531-Yamaha-digital-amplifier-board-dual-core-chipset-high-resolution-HD-Class-D-audio-amplifier/32681965385.html
Apparently it,s Yamaha,s answer to the tripath 2024 class d chip.
Yamaha YDA138 E Class D Power Amplifier Board | eBay
IMO, the 2024 is the best sounding tripath chip, tho it,s low power and has a few minor sonic drawbacks. I.m curious to know how Yamaha stacks up here.
Back in the 80,s and 90,s Yamaha made good performing audio, and it was the only Japanese speakers that I thought sounded pretty good.
I have the Yamaha 2024 amp posted on u-tube, looks little different though, also has a headphone jack, similar price, here is the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZVKIQY9w2U
to me it sounds very good..
I remember back in the early 80,s I was an engineer at a TV station and a Sony rep came to our engineers meeting to demo a new technology called a CD player. He had a Sony amp to hook the large thing up to.
My immediate impression was that the music was very, very bright, sibilant, jarring. Sure, it showed great clarity and low noise floor, but that wincingly sharp upper register...obviously they,ve come a long way.
The first CDs were unlistenable. They sounded terrible.
Don't the sound engineers dirty up the sound now so it sounds more natural? Modern CDs all sound different but many of them sound good, or very good.
I tested one module with YDA138-E and I was very disapointed .
Sound like crap, no use for this module.
Sound like crap, no use for this module.
I hate to drag an old thread out of the dust, but there isn't much out there on this amp, and I can answer the OP's question for those who come looking.
I have several Class D and chip amps and picked up one of these for $3.85 USD from eBay. It has a red board and has MK145 written on it..
To start with, I already have: Lepai 2020A+ amps (x3) this is what started it all, TPA3116D2 - 4 different variations, PAM8403 - a couple different types, PAM8610, TDA7297, and TDA7492P, and a Kentiger HY-V10 bluetooth amp that I haven't taken apart, but saw one review that said it was a TDA7297 as well.
With the exception of the PAM8403, this Yamaha is the weakest of the bunch. For general testing, I use the same 12V, 5A power supply (not on the PAM8403), and an old set of Axiom AX-1.5 8 ohm bookshelf speakers, and my cell phone as the music source.
Bass is somewhat lacking, and I have to turn it to near full volume to get it loud enough to fill a mid-sized room. The good news is that even at about 80% volume I don't hear any noticeable distortion, but it definitely has a less than perfect, almost tinny sound. Turned up full it sounds completely awful.
Running it for 10+ minutes at a fairly loud volume, the bare chip didn't feel warm to the touch.
Hooked up to a cheap pair of speakers it would be fine in a small room or out in a shop where it could be used for background music. Considering the TDA7297 costs about the same, and the PAM8610 costs less and both sound better, I would not recommend this amplifier.
I have several Class D and chip amps and picked up one of these for $3.85 USD from eBay. It has a red board and has MK145 written on it..
To start with, I already have: Lepai 2020A+ amps (x3) this is what started it all, TPA3116D2 - 4 different variations, PAM8403 - a couple different types, PAM8610, TDA7297, and TDA7492P, and a Kentiger HY-V10 bluetooth amp that I haven't taken apart, but saw one review that said it was a TDA7297 as well.
With the exception of the PAM8403, this Yamaha is the weakest of the bunch. For general testing, I use the same 12V, 5A power supply (not on the PAM8403), and an old set of Axiom AX-1.5 8 ohm bookshelf speakers, and my cell phone as the music source.
Bass is somewhat lacking, and I have to turn it to near full volume to get it loud enough to fill a mid-sized room. The good news is that even at about 80% volume I don't hear any noticeable distortion, but it definitely has a less than perfect, almost tinny sound. Turned up full it sounds completely awful.
Running it for 10+ minutes at a fairly loud volume, the bare chip didn't feel warm to the touch.
Hooked up to a cheap pair of speakers it would be fine in a small room or out in a shop where it could be used for background music. Considering the TDA7297 costs about the same, and the PAM8610 costs less and both sound better, I would not recommend this amplifier.
I have revised my opinion. Amazing module, very good sound, zero noise or pops-up and very strange too.
Paired with 8 ohms real speakers, filters are very sensitive, with 4 ohms sound is crap.
Put a good switching psu, much better sound compared with linear psu with transformer.
Input level is very tricky. With Sansa player or cell phone sound was bad and pot turned to max.
With old CD player or DAC (runeaudio softvolume set to 95/100) sound is very good and pot stay to left.
So, I guess that for this board you need high level input (~2V), second thing is to modify on board to reduce gain and finally the values on output filters must be like in the datasheet.
Paired with 8 ohms real speakers, filters are very sensitive, with 4 ohms sound is crap.
Put a good switching psu, much better sound compared with linear psu with transformer.
Input level is very tricky. With Sansa player or cell phone sound was bad and pot turned to max.
With old CD player or DAC (runeaudio softvolume set to 95/100) sound is very good and pot stay to left.
So, I guess that for this board you need high level input (~2V), second thing is to modify on board to reduce gain and finally the values on output filters must be like in the datasheet.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/YDA...lgo_pvid=028f6fa8-e4a0-46d4-bb7c-56f53d0795fa
Ordered this one, just because it is cheap. I plan to use it in a camper van, where it will power 11cm 8Ohm cheapshit speakers. Anyone tried how the bluetooth on these works?
At the moment, there is a tpa3116 red amp inside, but 12V from the battery seem to be too little (at a bit higher volume, the amp switches on and off), so I picked this one and hope it works better.
Ordered this one, just because it is cheap. I plan to use it in a camper van, where it will power 11cm 8Ohm cheapshit speakers. Anyone tried how the bluetooth on these works?
At the moment, there is a tpa3116 red amp inside, but 12V from the battery seem to be too little (at a bit higher volume, the amp switches on and off), so I picked this one and hope it works better.
I have revised my opinion. Amazing module, very good sound, zero noise or pops-up and very strange too.
Paired with 8 ohms real speakers, filters are very sensitive, with 4 ohms sound is crap.
Put a good switching psu, much better sound compared with linear psu with transformer.
Input level is very tricky. With Sansa player or cell phone sound was bad and pot turned to max.
With old CD player or DAC (runeaudio softvolume set to 95/100) sound is very good and pot stay to left.
So, I guess that for this board you need high level input (~2V), second thing is to modify on board to reduce gain and finally the values on output filters must be like in the datasheet.
am running it with 12V switching PS to listen music and to my sounds very good, was somewhat surprised by your initial comment.
Thread is old, but adding another opinion on this YDA chip, because it is being still sold...
It sound similar to TDA 2030, with lower distortion on lower volumes. It has less bass, you will always feel you like more. Anyway, bass is not that stable, so I expect it has somewhat low damping factor.
Sounds is quite neutral, not bright and even not any extensive high frequencies. Feels like you want to add some shine over 10kHz.
It has quite low sensitivity, so phone will never energize it to full power, even not a half. Measuring on 4ohm speakers it was barelly on 5-6Watts average (12V 4A p.s.). When I connected BT module to it, it comes quite close to maximum and a distortion appears. But it is not harsh anyway. To do so I had to connect DJ mix.
Has quite high efficiency, hence low power consumption. Running full power from mobile, it plays cca 4h on cheap Ali battery 8000mAh pack (but it is not a real 8Ah, but 5Ah max., just 3xpair of 18650)
It sound similar to TDA 2030, with lower distortion on lower volumes. It has less bass, you will always feel you like more. Anyway, bass is not that stable, so I expect it has somewhat low damping factor.
Sounds is quite neutral, not bright and even not any extensive high frequencies. Feels like you want to add some shine over 10kHz.
It has quite low sensitivity, so phone will never energize it to full power, even not a half. Measuring on 4ohm speakers it was barelly on 5-6Watts average (12V 4A p.s.). When I connected BT module to it, it comes quite close to maximum and a distortion appears. But it is not harsh anyway. To do so I had to connect DJ mix.
Has quite high efficiency, hence low power consumption. Running full power from mobile, it plays cca 4h on cheap Ali battery 8000mAh pack (but it is not a real 8Ah, but 5Ah max., just 3xpair of 18650)
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