Hello everyone!
I have CD player ATOLL CD 200 first generation. The player is upgrated with better capacitors, sockets etc. I bought it like this from Germany.
The sound is beautiful, the job is very well done. It outperforms the new Atoll CD200 signature.
Unfortunately few days ago a strange noise appear in the right channel. The left channel is clean.The quality of the sound is not affected in any way, but in the low passages of the music the noise can be heard,
Here is a link where it can be heard :
I connected external DAC to the coaxial exit. Everything works fine, no noise.
I need help where might be the problem.
I have CD player ATOLL CD 200 first generation. The player is upgrated with better capacitors, sockets etc. I bought it like this from Germany.
The sound is beautiful, the job is very well done. It outperforms the new Atoll CD200 signature.
Unfortunately few days ago a strange noise appear in the right channel. The left channel is clean.The quality of the sound is not affected in any way, but in the low passages of the music the noise can be heard,
Here is a link where it can be heard :
I connected external DAC to the coaxial exit. Everything works fine, no noise.
I need help where might be the problem.
Good morning! Here I upload some pictures. If something more detailed is needed please tell me and I will do.
There is a PCB board under the CD tray but it is not possible to make pictures. It has to be removed the CD tray.
There is a PCB board under the CD tray but it is not possible to make pictures. It has to be removed the CD tray.
Attachments
That is not a job well done electrically. First you will need solve the ridiculous mains connections and use crimp faston connectors, the right size wires in the right colors and a sturdy connector on the PCB. Try to find out what they have done with PE as there are 2 intertwined wires with the wrong colors going somewhere. Normally the casing/chassis is connected to PE. Then you will need to resolder or crimp connections and solder electrolytic caps as they should be so directly to the PCB. The transformers connections are done badly and need to be redone with no bare copper visible.
If things are done like here then transport/shipping of such a device is a serious risk. Dangling boutique caps and excess wiring may come loose or have bad contact. Especially the situation at the outputs with the large Jensen caps and the blue caps is asking for trouble. If you have a schematic please check what their purpose is. If they are output caps one might not even need them.
Possibly solving matters is a risk too as PCB tracks have endured mechanical stress and have been soldered a few times already, they may come loose etc. If devices need a special disassembly sequence because of the extreme changes I refuse such repairs. It is better done by the craftsman that did the changes.
If things are done like here then transport/shipping of such a device is a serious risk. Dangling boutique caps and excess wiring may come loose or have bad contact. Especially the situation at the outputs with the large Jensen caps and the blue caps is asking for trouble. If you have a schematic please check what their purpose is. If they are output caps one might not even need them.
Possibly solving matters is a risk too as PCB tracks have endured mechanical stress and have been soldered a few times already, they may come loose etc. If devices need a special disassembly sequence because of the extreme changes I refuse such repairs. It is better done by the craftsman that did the changes.
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Good morning Jean- Paul!
Thank you for your reply!
1. I checked the intertwined wires from the ground pin of the main socket- it goes nowhere. It is insulated and not connected to any point.
2. Unfortunately I can not find any schematic of ATOL CD200. What I found out is:
When I touch the wires of big yellow Jensen capacitors with a finger a noise appears ,and according their position on the PCB they are probably input capacitors of the output analog part.
On the blue capacitors I measured : N1 = +46 V, N2= -46 V, N3= +46 V, N4 = -46 V. I have no idea what might be their purpose.
The blue capacitor seems to be possible to be soldered directly on the board, but the big yellow Jensen I do not see options.
I found in internet a picture of the original ATOLL CD 200. I send it as an attachment.
What can be seen is that Jensen capacitors are on the place of smaller grey capacitors. The blue capacitors replace much smaller other capacitors.
I think all capacitors in the power supply part are replaced as well.
3. I see some changes done around PIC 16F87-I/P. - the red capacitors with long legs. I do not know how that can improve the sound because PIC 16F87-I/P is the controller but may be I am wrong and this capacitors are part of something else.
4. I tried to remove CD tray but I could not. I do not know how. On the front of the tray there is an aluminum panel glued very hard which does not allow to take away the whole tray. May be there is other option to be removed ? The CD mechanism is Philips.
Under the CD tray there is an other PCB.
This is all for now what I found out.
Thank you for your reply!
1. I checked the intertwined wires from the ground pin of the main socket- it goes nowhere. It is insulated and not connected to any point.
2. Unfortunately I can not find any schematic of ATOL CD200. What I found out is:
When I touch the wires of big yellow Jensen capacitors with a finger a noise appears ,and according their position on the PCB they are probably input capacitors of the output analog part.
On the blue capacitors I measured : N1 = +46 V, N2= -46 V, N3= +46 V, N4 = -46 V. I have no idea what might be their purpose.
The blue capacitor seems to be possible to be soldered directly on the board, but the big yellow Jensen I do not see options.
I found in internet a picture of the original ATOLL CD 200. I send it as an attachment.
What can be seen is that Jensen capacitors are on the place of smaller grey capacitors. The blue capacitors replace much smaller other capacitors.
I think all capacitors in the power supply part are replaced as well.
3. I see some changes done around PIC 16F87-I/P. - the red capacitors with long legs. I do not know how that can improve the sound because PIC 16F87-I/P is the controller but may be I am wrong and this capacitors are part of something else.
4. I tried to remove CD tray but I could not. I do not know how. On the front of the tray there is an aluminum panel glued very hard which does not allow to take away the whole tray. May be there is other option to be removed ? The CD mechanism is Philips.
Under the CD tray there is an other PCB.
This is all for now what I found out.
Attachments
If the PE wire is there but hanging in the air then one knows someone incompetent worked on it.
Unless you are capable yourself this will likely cost a lot of time and effort.
Bravo for the numbering of issues! Lack of time right now so maybe I wil react later on ok?!
Unless you are capable yourself this will likely cost a lot of time and effort.
Bravo for the numbering of issues! Lack of time right now so maybe I wil react later on ok?!
Thank you very much Jean-Paul!
With your help when you have time I think I might be able to fix it. At least I will try. The player sounds very beautiful.
For now if you can just to tell me what to do with the hanging ground wire:
Should I connect it to the metal box of the player or somewhere else ?
With your help when you have time I think I might be able to fix it. At least I will try. The player sounds very beautiful.
For now if you can just to tell me what to do with the hanging ground wire:
Should I connect it to the metal box of the player or somewhere else ?
Hi , about C82 I was told that the long legs are left to be easy to manually select the best capacitor in that position. I do not have any idea what C82 does , I can not find any electronic schematic of the Atoll CD200. May be somebody from France could help?
I connected the PE wire to where it should be according the picture of the original CD 200. The noise lower the level just a little bit but it is still there.
I connected the PE wire to where it should be according the picture of the original CD 200. The noise lower the level just a little bit but it is still there.
Attachments
That picture says more than a thousand words 🙂 I already advised what to do with 230V connections. Also use old fashioned 60/40 solder and crimping sleeve when soldering such connections. Crimping the ends at the IEC onnector side is better. There must be something done to the ridiculous connections of mains voltage to the PCB in the form of a Phoenix connector.
I found out something else :
When I look at the display I saw blinking of the digits . May be something like 5-10 Hz ,
The noise that is coming from the right channel has the same pace like the blinking of the display. It can be heard on the video on the first post I made.
The blinking of the display on the video is almost not possible to be seen. In reality is more visible but nothing serious.
When I look at the display I saw blinking of the digits . May be something like 5-10 Hz ,
The noise that is coming from the right channel has the same pace like the blinking of the display. It can be heard on the video on the first post I made.
The blinking of the display on the video is almost not possible to be seen. In reality is more visible but nothing serious.
It is for instance also a car that looked OK but turns out to be a lot or work as things are not right.
It seems the idea for the mode is very good because the player sound really amazing but unfortunately the electrical work is done bad
and obviously the risk something to go wrong is high.
and obviously the risk something to go wrong is high.
It is a question of belief indeed. I believe the craftsman that has done this job should bring the device into an electrically safe state and preferably without the noise and flickering display. In short: in a good state.
I have brand new Atoll CD 200 Signature ( price range 1750 Euro)
The one with the mode is much better. Atoll CD 200 Signature is excellent player but the one with mode just plays more natural and it is very obvious.
When I received the player from Germany it was working fine but after a while that noise appear. May be something happened during the shipping I do not know. I can listen it like this , the sound is still amazing but you know how it is : always will have bitter taste because of that noise.
The one with the mode is much better. Atoll CD 200 Signature is excellent player but the one with mode just plays more natural and it is very obvious.
When I received the player from Germany it was working fine but after a while that noise appear. May be something happened during the shipping I do not know. I can listen it like this , the sound is still amazing but you know how it is : always will have bitter taste because of that noise.
Of course the only honest comparison is with the very same model from the same year but then unmodded. Anyway it is sad. Good luck, I hope that you can repair it.
The noise on the right channel with the same pace as the flickering can be oscillation of a regulator probably because of adding too low ESR caps at the output of a regulator. Or it can be stray in noise by the ridiculously large capacitors with too long lead wires that function as antennas being too close to emitting electronics.
You possibly are listening to distortion and you like it 🙂 If the CD player will be without complaints chances may be that you will think it has lost its magic. Not my cup of tea, I like tidy and good quality work. I repaired such disaster jobs and nearly always the owner is then not satisfied (with solved complaints!) as he got used to the sound with complaints often paired with strong convictions so it is not rewarding do so.
The noise on the right channel with the same pace as the flickering can be oscillation of a regulator probably because of adding too low ESR caps at the output of a regulator. Or it can be stray in noise by the ridiculously large capacitors with too long lead wires that function as antennas being too close to emitting electronics.
You possibly are listening to distortion and you like it 🙂 If the CD player will be without complaints chances may be that you will think it has lost its magic. Not my cup of tea, I like tidy and good quality work. I repaired such disaster jobs and nearly always the owner is then not satisfied (with solved complaints!) as he got used to the sound with complaints often paired with strong convictions so it is not rewarding do so.
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No more Atoll schematics in France than on Neptune or in Bulgaria.
it's real idiots at Atoll, nothing ever came out of them apart from an schematic on their infamous IN amps.
I did not know that the expression was also used in Germany, here we say merguez . 🙂