Audyn True copper caps.

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M Gregg

M Gregg

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Joined 2010
#1
Just thought I would mention this,

I removed a couple of Audyn True copper caps to do a mod when I put them back in the sound had changed..LOL yes imagination and the snake again😀

I noticed the lead outs from the caps had unwound (become loose).
I disconnected them and twisted the lead outs tighter and yes different..
OK its just the snake again..however I thought I would mention it.
The change was loss of depth and bass..YMMV.
If nothing else its worth making sure they are well twisted when you put them in. (Obviously don't damage the cap)🙂

Regards
M. Gregg
 

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#3
😀 from the manufacturers site..

Quote (I have no connection)
_____________________________________________
True Copper Cap
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A very high end capacitor should be absolutely neutral and should pass signals undistorted. The Audyn True Copper Cap does not have a seperate sound or sound picture. Absolutely exact, accurate and honest reproduction of the signals that enter.
This capacitor is not an Equalizier, not pointed, not emphazised, not warmer, not fresher, not brighter, not deeper, not wider. It simply does what it should. Do not buy, if your audio devices are not of high quality.

Full OFC copper-foil polypropylene capacitor for exacting and high quality audio applications. No contamination by strange mixture of various metals and fairylike oils.

It is True Copper
__________________________________________________________
Apparently no Fairies or kipper oil, no snake oil...LMAO

Regards
M. Gregg
 
#5
DF96 said:
All well-designed capacitors in well-designed circuits are absolutely neutral and do pass signals undistorted.
Click to expand...

Well valve circuits MUST be badly designed by your statement because you certainly can hear a substantial difference when changing the coupling capacitors.
Or is it that ALL CAPACITORS are poorly designed?

Prehaps our mistake has been BUILDING amplifiers and listening to them, rather than running simulations and measuring every milliwatt.:cuss:
 
#6
If you change a cap with a 5% tolerance with another cap 5% tolerance they theoretically could be 10% different from each other......so unless you measure the cap coming out and match the new cap to the exact value going in then you will never no if the sound difference was the brand cap or the value change.

Even still I have really good ears for I have been playing and studying music for over 20 years and I never hear cap change difference unless the cap coming out was grossly faulty.
 
#7
Certainly some valve circuits are badly desgned. Some capacitors (mainly the expensive ones) are badly built. Some are just badly chosen.

For example, it may be a bad idea to use a polyester/Mylar cap as the cap which sets the LF rolloff late in a valve amp: polyester is slightly non-linear so is fine early in an amp where signal voltages are low or fine late in an amp provided that it is large enough not to set the LF rolloff. If used wrongly then swapping it for a polypropylene may cause a small change in sound. This does not mean that polypropylene is superior to polyester, just different. Polypropylene caps may be inappropriate for use in early stages as they tend to be big and so can pick up more hum and interference. Making these choices is called design; making them correctly is good design.
 
#9
I have the Audyn true Copper and their new Max which is slightly better these are the best
Cap per dollar on the market right up there with the basic Duelund , slightly better
As good as Jupiters Copper which is richer ,and Mundorfs s go caps which are more tipped up . These caps are 300 hours plus to fully runin . Any time taken out of the system
They may take a day or two to re settle in . The wires I always hear schrink them before installing and tin the ends.
One secret I learned from a company that specializes in vibration get some blue Permatex
RTV. You can puta thin coat on these wires , and for sure around where the wires come out
And a bead on the body and use this to secure the caps takes 24 hours to fully dry .
Vibration on legs of all resistors will guarantee better focus .every little bit counts . We have done as well as others many hours of testing. Also VH audio OIMP caps are very nice
Especially if you use their CU teflon bypass caps . I use them and use the Audyn true Copper .22uf as a much cheaper bypass with Excellent results .these are Big caps .
 
#11
davidsrsb said:
This is a two year old thread.
Parts that come unwound are like this are badly made
Click to expand...

What a silly comment. Who cares how old the thread is?

The part itself did not come unwound, but only some of the stranded lead wire. It was probably abused by the OP, who doesn't seem entirely too bright anyway.

I have used the True Copper in line level duties as AC coupler at amp input, and crossover duties in the tweeter leg, and I believe there is no finer cap available for the price, or nearly double the price. This is compared to Mundorf, Rel, Sonicap, Clarity, etc at many different price levels. In my experience, only the Jupiter copper foil cap sounds better, but not by much. There is absolutely nothing about them that is badly made.

Peace,
Tom E
 
#13
davidsrsb said:
This is a two year old thread.
Parts that come unwound are like this are badly made
Click to expand...

All audiophool parts are badly made. These companies have no expertise, no experience, and are only out to trick any potential customer. There is a reason the only people buying these parts completely lack any sort of relevant education (or do, but are too stupid to actually understand it).

Get parts from reputable, or should I say real, manufacturers of components instead. If you want better quality than consumer grade, then go industrial. That is literally the best there is.
 
#14
Nice welcome, there. Perhaps you should try to resolve your anger issues before posting here. Little of what you wrote has any basis in fact, but consists mostly of your own generalized projection and speculation. You are certainly no authority on Audyn capacitors. Any person with an unlocked mind will disregard your advice, which is too bad because it does contain a kernel of truth. It's a shame that "education" can destroy one's ability to wonder and learn.

Peace,
Tom E
 
#15
They are pretty straightforward with their description of the cap and its usage, in-fact refreshingly honest for an audiophile component... They are for speaker crossover use only so the use of stranded leads can almost be forgiven🙂. stranded leads into PCBs are a pain, hence solid leads on most components, these caps would need some other form of mechanical fixing in any case. As they say for speaker crossovers only due to their construction, which makes me wonder about how they are wound, cant find a site for them, but this caveat in their use makes me curious about there manufacture. They do quote IEC60384-1 and EN130000, both of which do involve teste, though I couldn't find a full reference without buying the full spec so could not say what they are tested to, but one would hope breakdown voltages etc. So I would say they are fit for their specified purpose, passive crossovers. I would not use them for anything else, especially PSU's.

Audyn True Copper Caps | Hifi Collective

Actually Industrial is not the best their is, these days automotive grade components have the best specs, good enough that we use some of them for Mill/aerospace designs as we can get them to pass the requirements and bespoke mil components are not readily available these days...
 
#16
Marce, thanks for your thoughtful evaluation. I only want to mention again that this cap CAN be used in line level applications, although it requires a lot of room on a PCB (or creative mounting) and some fidgeting with the leads to fit them into the typical drilled pad hole. It can be done, and the reward of sound is quite worth the trouble. This is a genuine polypro film and copper foil cap, not some lightweight aluminized plastic crap.

Unless one has heard it in a circuit, the uninformed should probably refrain from consigning it to the snake oil sin bin.

Peace,
Tom E
 
#17
Its always best to look at things with an open mind, even if you don't have the same views. There are some very dodgy audiophile parts out there, but can soon be spotted as they are usually surrounded by extreme marketing claims, these aren't. Personally I have moved away from passive crossovers with my speaker builds as I found it cheaper to buy a Berhinger active crossover than good quality components for a passive crossover...
I wish I still had access to test and measurement gear (all my own got sent mistakenly to the tip during a house move!) and as I now work in a design bureau I don't have access to a test department and gear as I use to have when I worked full time for an company (Cobham being the last one, I now work as a contractor for them! such is the world of PCB designers), so its hard for me to evaluate any designs I do these days so I tend to stick to building speakers, when time permits...
 
#19
I am hoping one day to create a set up with a decent sound card and possible some USB based scope, at the moment my PC is used exclusively for Photo-editing, I don't seem to have the time to devote to everything I would like to do... It is one of the things on my list of things to do, especially as many many years ago before I got drafted into PCB design I initially worked in the test dept. of NCL and then Syntel Microsystems. when I was a lot younger and optimistic...
 
#20
I know this is an old thread, but..... Does anyone know the true coppers max's 'outer foil' side, there is no markings on the cap. I emailed Audyns mother company several times about the issue, i eventually had a reply from an engineer in India telling me it was on the marked side... He clearly did not read the mail : s

Any help would be well received.

BR

Shertzy
 
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