I have sony xplode 4 ohm 2 x 4 ch 800, 4 ch 1000, and 2 ch 1300w set of amps all rated at peak. 4 amps but i dont need to use all. I have a 1973 opel gt that I'm replacing the drivetrain and redoing the interior as well before repainting the body.
First i want your opinion on what to use for the low bass in the back of the car. 4th, 6th, 8th order are all saying they are better than ported or sealed. What is better for something using lower watts?
Looking at how newer generation boxes look, I'm guessing i should build the inside like 2 ported boxes, smaller cubic inches behind sub 60hz, front bigger cubic inches 30hz, if 8th order 45hz for last port? Am I way off? Would they cancel each other out at the end?
Is it better to use a 6th order with 60hz in smaller side and 35hz for bigger side? Would the bigger side have louder base and smaller be quieter like how a normal ported works?
I'm going to use a fiberglass box inside another fiberglass box on outside because the inner box needs to be stronger than the outside that's just used for resonance. I might use 1/4 mdf on the inside of the inner fiberglass box to make it easier to bolt together.
2nd question
I guess I should start with what size sub? single or dual? I can run a pair of dvc subs bridged 800w amps giving me 1600w. A single sub 1300w bridged would allow me a bigger box for a higher order design.
Note:
there is no usable space in back as a truck because there is no tailgate, so I can use the entire area for a box. 36x36x30 and I have space behind the seat to where the rear box is from floor to roof as well.
2nd note:
I want one 4 ch amp for 2 pairs of 6.5 component speakers that will be for midrange and 4 tweeters will use the 10.1 touch screen built in amp. The stereo has a great speaker, surround, and subwoofer equalizer for each output
3rd question:
1st option:
I was thinking of making ported fiberglass boxes for the doors to have 6.5 midbass subs for a 4 ch amp bridged or run each channel if they are dvc.
Second option:
Put all speakers in front and use a pair of 8 inch behind the seats on the sides sealed infront of rear sub(s).
Conclusion:
I want good bass and think separating the rear being most powerful 1300 watt, second smaller subs using 500x2 watt, speakers 200x4, 4 tweeters 45x4 will blend for good sound.
Since all are in their own boxes, they shouldn't create distortion with each other but that's a guess based on setups I've seen for the last 25 years.
I know lots of tweaking will be needed.
First i want your opinion on what to use for the low bass in the back of the car. 4th, 6th, 8th order are all saying they are better than ported or sealed. What is better for something using lower watts?
Looking at how newer generation boxes look, I'm guessing i should build the inside like 2 ported boxes, smaller cubic inches behind sub 60hz, front bigger cubic inches 30hz, if 8th order 45hz for last port? Am I way off? Would they cancel each other out at the end?
Is it better to use a 6th order with 60hz in smaller side and 35hz for bigger side? Would the bigger side have louder base and smaller be quieter like how a normal ported works?
I'm going to use a fiberglass box inside another fiberglass box on outside because the inner box needs to be stronger than the outside that's just used for resonance. I might use 1/4 mdf on the inside of the inner fiberglass box to make it easier to bolt together.
2nd question
I guess I should start with what size sub? single or dual? I can run a pair of dvc subs bridged 800w amps giving me 1600w. A single sub 1300w bridged would allow me a bigger box for a higher order design.
Note:
there is no usable space in back as a truck because there is no tailgate, so I can use the entire area for a box. 36x36x30 and I have space behind the seat to where the rear box is from floor to roof as well.
2nd note:
I want one 4 ch amp for 2 pairs of 6.5 component speakers that will be for midrange and 4 tweeters will use the 10.1 touch screen built in amp. The stereo has a great speaker, surround, and subwoofer equalizer for each output
3rd question:
1st option:
I was thinking of making ported fiberglass boxes for the doors to have 6.5 midbass subs for a 4 ch amp bridged or run each channel if they are dvc.
Second option:
Put all speakers in front and use a pair of 8 inch behind the seats on the sides sealed infront of rear sub(s).
Conclusion:
I want good bass and think separating the rear being most powerful 1300 watt, second smaller subs using 500x2 watt, speakers 200x4, 4 tweeters 45x4 will blend for good sound.
Since all are in their own boxes, they shouldn't create distortion with each other but that's a guess based on setups I've seen for the last 25 years.
I know lots of tweaking will be needed.
Have you tried to find a forum that is specifically for your vehicle where you might get real-world solutions that have been proven to work.
You seem to want bandpass but they can be problematic. The worst is trying to get the absolute most SPL. They are not magic. To gain at one point, you have to lose at another. For high gain enclosures, you generally make a system that is a 'one note wonder'.
Tuning is another issue but to get them just right, you have to test and adjust. The calculators won't get it perfect. anything beyond 4th order is impractical. Someone like Bose can do it but to get it close to right, you'd have to build with all walls movable all ports adjustable and test, test, test until you got it close to right.
What does the transfer function of the vehicle need? If there is a huge boost at the lowest frequencies, you may be able to tune a bit higher to get a better response.
You seem to want bandpass but they can be problematic. The worst is trying to get the absolute most SPL. They are not magic. To gain at one point, you have to lose at another. For high gain enclosures, you generally make a system that is a 'one note wonder'.
Tuning is another issue but to get them just right, you have to test and adjust. The calculators won't get it perfect. anything beyond 4th order is impractical. Someone like Bose can do it but to get it close to right, you'd have to build with all walls movable all ports adjustable and test, test, test until you got it close to right.
What does the transfer function of the vehicle need? If there is a huge boost at the lowest frequencies, you may be able to tune a bit higher to get a better response.
You haven't addressed what you are trying to do with the system, but I'm going to assume you're just trying to build a nice stereo and don't have insane SPL expectations, aren't competing, etc., because those are a whole other ballgame on multiple fronts.
Woofer selection and count is where I would start. You seem to have roughly 22 cubic feet for the subwoofer enclosure. Given the limited power, I would stay away from many modern car audio subwoofers that are designed for extreme power and excursion, but also typically have low sensitivity. Look for drivers that have moderate power handling and excursion but have higher sensitivity. How many woofers is really up to you. If you shoot for 200 watts per woofer (both in what your amp can deliver and what the driver is rated for), you could likely do something like six 15's if you wanted to and are careful when choosing a driver. I've been involved with builds using this approach, and they tend to play loud and clean without trouble for years. It's the opposite of what many do today with extreme power and the issues that can create.
Given the experience level you seem to have, I would also suggest staying away from any complex enclosure designs. Sealed boxes are safe and easy. They don't unload the drivers at very low frequencies and you can hear when things are straining. With enough EQ you can make them sound like whatever you want, and enough drivers more than make up for the base sensitivity you'd lose by not doing something like a bandpass or even ported box.
Similarly, I would also stick with normal 3/4 inch MDF/particle board/birch plywood for the bulk of the enclosure construction. Save the fancy fiberglass for a beauty panel that integrates the box into the interior.
Anyway, just one person's opinion. Ultimately it's your system and whatever amuses you matters. Since this idea is far away from what you were thinking, thought it was worth suggesting.
And I'm not completely clear on what exactly you're trying to do in general. Your thread title says "small subs", but then your post says
I don't know if you already have a subwoofer box in the car, if you're just asking about essentially midbass woofers with this thread, if you're referring to a part of the car as "the rear box," or if I'm misreading everything.
I assumed that was inches because other units you used seemed to indicate that.
I don't know if you already have a subwoofer box in the car, if you're just asking about essentially midbass woofers with this thread, if you're referring to a part of the car as "the rear box," or if I'm misreading everything.
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