Yes you can do a very interesting project.
The T34B can tolerate a lower crossover than most tweeters. This makes it a good match for the MW19. You could add a waveguide to the T34B to manage the directivity... or you can use it as-is if the baffle around the tweeter is made small and well rounded. Another option would be a very wide baffle which presents the tweeter with an infinite baffle.
The Satori MW19TX would benefit from a subwoofer, and ideally, you would use stereo subwoofers.
There are a lot of options for you.
Do you want this to be an active crossover, or passive crossover?
Do you have the tools and skills to construct a complicated cabinet? something more complicated than a simple rectangular box for instance?
What size cabinet are you envisioning?
The T34B can tolerate a lower crossover than most tweeters. This makes it a good match for the MW19. You could add a waveguide to the T34B to manage the directivity... or you can use it as-is if the baffle around the tweeter is made small and well rounded. Another option would be a very wide baffle which presents the tweeter with an infinite baffle.
The Satori MW19TX would benefit from a subwoofer, and ideally, you would use stereo subwoofers.
There are a lot of options for you.
Do you want this to be an active crossover, or passive crossover?
Do you have the tools and skills to construct a complicated cabinet? something more complicated than a simple rectangular box for instance?
What size cabinet are you envisioning?
If you are not going to use a waveguide, then I recommend designing the baffle around the tweeter to be as small as possible. I have used tapered bevels to do this, and it works well.
It is important to get this aspect of the design thought-out at the very start, because deep bevels like this affect all the other cabinet design decisions.
A trapezoid cabinet with uniform round-over edges would also work equally well, and I may build this kind of cabinet in the future. The point is that the flat area around the tweeter should be small, and there should be no 90 degree hard edges around the tweeter.
Another option would be to make a small cabinet for the tweeter with a baffle that is just large enough, and put it on top of a separate cabinet with the MW16TX driver. This would be similar to the B&W approach.
If you are going to apply a waveguide to the T34B, you can use a more traditional rectangular cabinet with large round-over or beveled edges, something like the March Sointuva:
The waveguide mitigates the baffle gain in the lower treble region, so that big flat baffle around the tweeter does not cause problems. If this same cabinet had a normal "flat faced" dome tweeter, then the directivity would be uneven in the crossover region. The March Audio speaker has nearly perfect directivity performance.
It sounds like this project will be a 2-way speaker with a possible subwoofer added in the future. You will need to decide if you want this to be a sealed box, vented box, or passive radiator, or something else. Many people have a strong preference for one style over the others. I prefer the way sealed box speakers sound, but a single 7" woofer in a sealed box is not going to dig deep into the bass, and it is not going to play at high SPL. So for this kind of project, you may want to consider a vented or PR.
It is difficult to define the crossover frequency and crossover slopes at this stage of a project. The best we can do is make an estimate. After you build the cabinet and make polar frequency response measurements of each driver, then you can start designing the crossover. For now, a reasonable estimate is 2 kHz, but the actual value could turn out to be anywhere from 1.5k to 3k. It all depends on how the measurements turn out.
j.
It is important to get this aspect of the design thought-out at the very start, because deep bevels like this affect all the other cabinet design decisions.
A trapezoid cabinet with uniform round-over edges would also work equally well, and I may build this kind of cabinet in the future. The point is that the flat area around the tweeter should be small, and there should be no 90 degree hard edges around the tweeter.
Another option would be to make a small cabinet for the tweeter with a baffle that is just large enough, and put it on top of a separate cabinet with the MW16TX driver. This would be similar to the B&W approach.
If you are going to apply a waveguide to the T34B, you can use a more traditional rectangular cabinet with large round-over or beveled edges, something like the March Sointuva:
The waveguide mitigates the baffle gain in the lower treble region, so that big flat baffle around the tweeter does not cause problems. If this same cabinet had a normal "flat faced" dome tweeter, then the directivity would be uneven in the crossover region. The March Audio speaker has nearly perfect directivity performance.
It sounds like this project will be a 2-way speaker with a possible subwoofer added in the future. You will need to decide if you want this to be a sealed box, vented box, or passive radiator, or something else. Many people have a strong preference for one style over the others. I prefer the way sealed box speakers sound, but a single 7" woofer in a sealed box is not going to dig deep into the bass, and it is not going to play at high SPL. So for this kind of project, you may want to consider a vented or PR.
It is difficult to define the crossover frequency and crossover slopes at this stage of a project. The best we can do is make an estimate. After you build the cabinet and make polar frequency response measurements of each driver, then you can start designing the crossover. For now, a reasonable estimate is 2 kHz, but the actual value could turn out to be anywhere from 1.5k to 3k. It all depends on how the measurements turn out.
j.
A rectangular baffle will probably result in a dip in the power response near the crossover frequency, which means a positive peak in the directivity index (two ways of saying the same thing). This is not necessarily a problem. One of my favorite speakers has exactly this kind of directivity.
A speaker with a smooth even directivity index tends to sound good in any room, and it is very forgiving of speaker and listener placement. A speaker with an uneven directivity is more demanding. More care and attention is needed when locating it in the room. However, if you are willing to move the speaker to a good spot, and put your chair in the right spot, the uneven directivity will become unimportant.
The Troels SBA MW19 has hard-edges around the tweeter. That is one thing I feel is important to avoid. A 20 mm wide bevel on both sides and along the top edge would improve imaging and spatial performance in my opinion. I like to use a 35 degree bevel angle (relative to the baffle), but any angle between 30 degrees and 45 degrees will work well. A 20 mm radius round-over will also work well.
The Pharaoh speaker design has the potential of a smooth directivity curve because the flat area around the tweeter is minimized.
j.
A speaker with a smooth even directivity index tends to sound good in any room, and it is very forgiving of speaker and listener placement. A speaker with an uneven directivity is more demanding. More care and attention is needed when locating it in the room. However, if you are willing to move the speaker to a good spot, and put your chair in the right spot, the uneven directivity will become unimportant.
The Troels SBA MW19 has hard-edges around the tweeter. That is one thing I feel is important to avoid. A 20 mm wide bevel on both sides and along the top edge would improve imaging and spatial performance in my opinion. I like to use a 35 degree bevel angle (relative to the baffle), but any angle between 30 degrees and 45 degrees will work well. A 20 mm radius round-over will also work well.
The Pharaoh speaker design has the potential of a smooth directivity curve because the flat area around the tweeter is minimized.
j.
Something like this:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ile-city-of-22m-laid-flat.393338/post-7267848
I tried the middle 1.5m tapered/stepped transmission line design with 2cm and (better) 3cm slots; I think the simplified shorter TL on the right with 3cm slot would have worked better with the MW19TX-8, boosting by quarterwave resonance 50hz where it had a significant dip (that I heard, in agreement with factory chart; 40hz was actually better).
(edit)
Series XO:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sb-acoustics-textreme.343831/post-7481666
TLonken cab with offset nude tweeter looked like this, different combo:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-return-of-the-cone-tweeter.397213/post-7394836
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ile-city-of-22m-laid-flat.393338/post-7267848
I tried the middle 1.5m tapered/stepped transmission line design with 2cm and (better) 3cm slots; I think the simplified shorter TL on the right with 3cm slot would have worked better with the MW19TX-8, boosting by quarterwave resonance 50hz where it had a significant dip (that I heard, in agreement with factory chart; 40hz was actually better).
(edit)
Series XO:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sb-acoustics-textreme.343831/post-7481666
TLonken cab with offset nude tweeter looked like this, different combo:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-return-of-the-cone-tweeter.397213/post-7394836
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