Hello all, i think this question could also be answered by people who use the older CSR6xxxx chips as well, i like to use the QCC3003 bt amplifiers as for their size and ability to quickly hook up to a USB/SPI and modify the EQ settings they make great lowfi portable options.
My last project i used the same amp, 3d printed my version of an 80's ghettoblaster and had a great time using it with a nice combo of DMA45's and ND90-PR's. One thing that let me down as that i used about 4-5 3v LED Diodes and significantly slashed the run time of the singular 18650 battery.
As i need to fix up the voltage step up module as i think it failed, it made me think if i could save some of the battery life by attempting to solder 2 LED bulbs directly onto the chip itself, so then they actually have some purpose when the button is activated. Watching a video using the CSR6xxxx chip variant, it looks like a guys managed to do this as it uses 5v (apparently), so was hoping that as it was already pulling down some mA's that i could save by utilising the same. Has anyone done this with any of the variants and is it possible?
I would still like to know if anyone has managed to upload an audio/wav/mp3 to these chips to use as the intiation/bootup sounds, as i beleive it can be done, but might be a little tricky.
My last project i used the same amp, 3d printed my version of an 80's ghettoblaster and had a great time using it with a nice combo of DMA45's and ND90-PR's. One thing that let me down as that i used about 4-5 3v LED Diodes and significantly slashed the run time of the singular 18650 battery.
As i need to fix up the voltage step up module as i think it failed, it made me think if i could save some of the battery life by attempting to solder 2 LED bulbs directly onto the chip itself, so then they actually have some purpose when the button is activated. Watching a video using the CSR6xxxx chip variant, it looks like a guys managed to do this as it uses 5v (apparently), so was hoping that as it was already pulling down some mA's that i could save by utilising the same. Has anyone done this with any of the variants and is it possible?
I would still like to know if anyone has managed to upload an audio/wav/mp3 to these chips to use as the intiation/bootup sounds, as i beleive it can be done, but might be a little tricky.
That is hilarious. So silly that it's cool. Now you just need to change the power source to something like 12 D-cell batteries so you can get the same heft as the original. 🙂
Note that blue LEDs didn't really enter mainstream until the 1990s, so if you want to stay true to the original, red, green, and yellow are your options.
Anyway. There's no such thing as a "3 V LED". LEDs require current to work. At the specified forward current they'll exhibit some voltage (bandgap voltage) across them. If you just hook up an LED with a 3 V forward drop to a 3 V battery you'll fry the LED. You may get lucky that it doesn't fry right away, but you really do need to limit the current with a resistor. This could explain why your battery drains so fast with the LEDs in place.
If you want to move the two surface mounted LEDs to the front panel you could just remove the LEDs from the board and connect to the board with thin wires going to the LEDs. I'd secure the wires with hot glue once you're satisfied that everything works.
The manufacturer of that bluetooth module would be able to tell you how to use the various pins.
Tom
Note that blue LEDs didn't really enter mainstream until the 1990s, so if you want to stay true to the original, red, green, and yellow are your options.
Anyway. There's no such thing as a "3 V LED". LEDs require current to work. At the specified forward current they'll exhibit some voltage (bandgap voltage) across them. If you just hook up an LED with a 3 V forward drop to a 3 V battery you'll fry the LED. You may get lucky that it doesn't fry right away, but you really do need to limit the current with a resistor. This could explain why your battery drains so fast with the LEDs in place.
If you want to move the two surface mounted LEDs to the front panel you could just remove the LEDs from the board and connect to the board with thin wires going to the LEDs. I'd secure the wires with hot glue once you're satisfied that everything works.
The manufacturer of that bluetooth module would be able to tell you how to use the various pins.
Tom
Thanks Tom, i get about 9 hours run time from the one 18650 battery, which i reckon would have been other double if i didnt run so many bulbs in parallel. I had a similar build that i used a 18350 battery 1100mah and got the same run time, just didnt have the same amount of LED's as the only one i had blew because i didnt realise i didnt have a resistor on it.
I'm building a 12v version using a KAB amp and ND65's, then going to try a full size one with a small sub, but for this one you may laugh but it goes pretty good for a 1.5inch full range in 0.015cuft enclosures. I would say gets some bass as well 🙂 I'm rebuilding my white one based on experience building one for a mate and i have a ESP32 module with TFT display that has a animated gif of tape spinning and a few other things, so expect some crazy coming soon
I'm building a 12v version using a KAB amp and ND65's, then going to try a full size one with a small sub, but for this one you may laugh but it goes pretty good for a 1.5inch full range in 0.015cuft enclosures. I would say gets some bass as well 🙂 I'm rebuilding my white one based on experience building one for a mate and i have a ESP32 module with TFT display that has a animated gif of tape spinning and a few other things, so expect some crazy coming soon
I have no idea what a "18650 battery" is so I can't advise whether that's a reasonable run time. But getting 9 hours on a battery charge certainly seems beyond the runtime that could be expected from the original ghettoblaster loaded with about 1 kg of D-cell batteries. 🙂
Note that the perceived brightness of LEDs is only a weak function of the current through them. You can buy yourself some runtime by starving the LEDs a bit. You can also get high-efficiency LEDs that require very little current to produce blinding levels of light output. This is especially true of the blue and white LEDs.
Tom
Note that the perceived brightness of LEDs is only a weak function of the current through them. You can buy yourself some runtime by starving the LEDs a bit. You can also get high-efficiency LEDs that require very little current to produce blinding levels of light output. This is especially true of the blue and white LEDs.
Tom
A 18650 is a lithium ion battery which is used in most of the cordless tools etc. it stands for 18mm in diameter and 65mm long. Very common cells and often paired in series and parallel to get 12-18v and a decent Mah's. I've been messing around with ESP boards and small low powered displays and got my tape cassette playing which looks cool, just have to try remove parts to get it back to the internal volume that sounds good 🙂