I have a blown sub sitting around and would like to try to do something with it.
Any tips on for a begginer? or just a good web page or book I can look up?
First time trying this obviously and I would like to do it right.
Cant find anything on the web.
Any tips on for a begginer? or just a good web page or book I can look up?
First time trying this obviously and I would like to do it right.
Cant find anything on the web.
Is it passive or amplified? The woofer itself is blown? Or just something about the whole thing makes it not work?
If the woofer itself is burnt out, look for a speaker reconer in your area, or send it to someone who does recones.
If the woofer itself is burnt out, look for a speaker reconer in your area, or send it to someone who does recones.
not sure if its passive or amplified really(Guessing passive) Just a cheap 10" car subwoofer a friend gave it to me.
I believe the voice coil is burnt it smells burn the surround was also busted so I went ahead and took it apart and the coil looked burnt.
For lack of money right now I was wanting to do it myself, I assumed it would be cheaper.
also Just wanting to do it for experience sake and a lil fun. not really gonna push it hard at all.
Know any good adhesives for winding the voice coil?
I believe the voice coil is burnt it smells burn the surround was also busted so I went ahead and took it apart and the coil looked burnt.
For lack of money right now I was wanting to do it myself, I assumed it would be cheaper.
also Just wanting to do it for experience sake and a lil fun. not really gonna push it hard at all.
Know any good adhesives for winding the voice coil?
For the price of some special high-temperature adhesive and a replacement surround, you could very likely buy a working used subwoofer.
But, attempting to wind a voice coil would be a great learning experience.
But, attempting to wind a voice coil would be a great learning experience.
Hi.
here i list the materials to fix your problem.
1. Voice coil former(Aluminium or Til- must know ID of existing coil)
2. Winding Wire (copper- you shoul know the thickness of the wire which is used your existing burnt coil)
3. Need IPA to fix the wire with former.
4. Adhesive to fix the coil to cone and spider and fix the surround to frame.
And also you should calculate the no of turns required best you count the exisint burnt coil turns.
Remove the burnt coil from cone and fix your coil with cone and spider.
Position is important.
Finally it is a little challenging task.
here i list the materials to fix your problem.
1. Voice coil former(Aluminium or Til- must know ID of existing coil)
2. Winding Wire (copper- you shoul know the thickness of the wire which is used your existing burnt coil)
3. Need IPA to fix the wire with former.
4. Adhesive to fix the coil to cone and spider and fix the surround to frame.
And also you should calculate the no of turns required best you count the exisint burnt coil turns.
Remove the burnt coil from cone and fix your coil with cone and spider.
Position is important.
Finally it is a little challenging task.
isopropyl alcohol-- IPA it is used to paste coated copper wire to the former.
Til- it is a type of voice coil former.
acrylic adhesive is best to hold voice coil, cone and spider.
Does the Iso P alcohol dissolve the coating of the enameled copper wire?
How else would it form a paste?
How else would it form a paste?
ya it disolve the coating of copper wire and also coating in former so that copper wire pasting with former.
I would never use a solvent that dissolves the enamel of the insulated copper wires.
Too much risk of a turn to turn short.
And if the former is conductive (as in aluminium) then a turn to former short can also be a risk.
I recommend a glue that does NOT dissolve the enamel of the copper wire.
Too much risk of a turn to turn short.
And if the former is conductive (as in aluminium) then a turn to former short can also be a risk.
I recommend a glue that does NOT dissolve the enamel of the copper wire.
Agreed. I recommend the adhesive be a two part epoxy with a high transition temperature. The intended environment is supposed to get hot, and it doesn't pay to have the epoxy go into the plastic state while the wires are trying to shear off.
Also, if at all possible, go square or rectangular copper. It gives lower resistance so slightly lower temperatures.
I recommend as well, a mandrel to support the vc former. A wood dowel just large enough in diameter to keep the former round and un-crushed. Make it slightly undersized, and wrap it with Teflon plumbers tape to bring the size close to the vc. Take care not to wind too tight, or you'll lock the former onto the support structure.
You may want to look into one of those round sanding drum mandrels. They are made of hard rubber, two big end washers, and a threaded rod. They work by you loosening the nuts, slide the cylindrical sanding drum over the rubber, then tighten the nuts to expand the hard rubber cylinder. Use Teflon tape over one of those also, that way the epoxy doesn't adhere.
When cured, just back the nuts and remove the drum.
jn
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