Most of the amps and preamps that I own have the same textured or "spattered" paint finish on the exterior chassis surfaces. I have tried flat black, satin black, hammered black, etc. Not good. Does anyone know the secret to matching this very common but hard to duplicate lightly textured finish?
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wrinkle finish? think VHT make it, and I think VHT stuff is available in the states. have heardt he way to go is pre-warm the part before you spray it.
I used Krylon "Make It Stone" black granite spray paint. This is a nice coarse finish with a almost real stone feel to it. After it cured for a day I sprayed Krylon flat black indoor/outdoor over top. This melted the coarseness of the stone-like finish into a nice rich pebbly finish. The amount of the I/O paint used determines the final finish.
I also used it on our ugly brass finished gas fireplace. It can take the heat.
With paint the prep work of the work surface is as important as the finishing work.E
I also used it on our ugly brass finished gas fireplace. It can take the heat.
With paint the prep work of the work surface is as important as the finishing work.E
For no tools real homemade you will have to apply the above suggestion, you'll have to rely on spray cans ... what else?
The ones mentioned above are specially thick paints which keep their 3D structure until they dry.
Standard synthetic/oil paints (the ones that take at least overnight to dry and have a pungent smell for a couple days) are self-levelling, which normally is good, of course, to hide and even out brush strokes if applied by hand.
I do it at home but I have a compressor and spray gun.
I also use Nitro or Acrylic car type paints, which being thinner based dry very fast ... fast enough to thicken in the air before reaching the panel I'm painting.
So I first paint as many base coats as I want (these paints are very thin and cover little, so 4 coats is minimum ... which are applied in minutes anyway) .
I let it partially dry , say 10/15 minutes and then apply the "grain" which is the same paint, through a thicker nozzle, somewhat thicker, (use little thinner) applied from far away (say 2/3 feet) and with the regulator set to very low pressure, so it sputters.
You can make drops as thick as you want.
That's what the Pros do, only they use oven cured Epoxy paint ... but the idea is the same , a smooth base coat and sputtering to give grain.
Talk to your neighbourhood car paint shop, they might help you.
Or some car restore friend.
You can do it also with one of thos cheap electrical paint guns, which by the way are hard not to sputter.
There your only variable is paint thinning.
Later I'll post some picture of the surface which can be achieved.
The ones mentioned above are specially thick paints which keep their 3D structure until they dry.
Standard synthetic/oil paints (the ones that take at least overnight to dry and have a pungent smell for a couple days) are self-levelling, which normally is good, of course, to hide and even out brush strokes if applied by hand.
I do it at home but I have a compressor and spray gun.
I also use Nitro or Acrylic car type paints, which being thinner based dry very fast ... fast enough to thicken in the air before reaching the panel I'm painting.
So I first paint as many base coats as I want (these paints are very thin and cover little, so 4 coats is minimum ... which are applied in minutes anyway) .
I let it partially dry , say 10/15 minutes and then apply the "grain" which is the same paint, through a thicker nozzle, somewhat thicker, (use little thinner) applied from far away (say 2/3 feet) and with the regulator set to very low pressure, so it sputters.
You can make drops as thick as you want.
That's what the Pros do, only they use oven cured Epoxy paint ... but the idea is the same , a smooth base coat and sputtering to give grain.
Talk to your neighbourhood car paint shop, they might help you.
Or some car restore friend.
You can do it also with one of thos cheap electrical paint guns, which by the way are hard not to sputter.
There your only variable is paint thinning.
Later I'll post some picture of the surface which can be achieved.
Accents by Rust-Oleum | Stone Creations - Granite Stone | Home Depot Canada
I do it similar to mickeymoose but I roll on a coat of flat black first before using the stone. After the Stone it's up to you. If it has coloured specks, you can use flat spray to eliminate the colour or do as mickey and remove a certain amount of the texture by rolling on another coat of paint.
I do it similar to mickeymoose but I roll on a coat of flat black first before using the stone. After the Stone it's up to you. If it has coloured specks, you can use flat spray to eliminate the colour or do as mickey and remove a certain amount of the texture by rolling on another coat of paint.
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