Hi.
I'm completely new to this whole diy scene and I may get laughed at but here goes!!
I am wanting to know whether or not it would be possible to use a car subwoofer for a home subwoofer (mainly music orientated). The sub I have in mind is the JBL W15 GTI the specs of which are below.
• Die-cast vented basket
• Kevlar®-impregnated paper woofer cone
• Nitrile-butylene surround
• Power handling RMS: 800 watts
• Power handling Peak: 5,000 watts
• Mounting depth: 10-1/4"
• Cut-out diameter: 13-7/8"
• Dual 6-ohm voice coils
• Sensitivity: 92dB
Where can I find the enclosure diameters for these specifications and what kind of amplifier should I be looking to use, bearing in mind this subs capabilities.
Thank you in advance for your responses.
Sunil
I'm completely new to this whole diy scene and I may get laughed at but here goes!!
I am wanting to know whether or not it would be possible to use a car subwoofer for a home subwoofer (mainly music orientated). The sub I have in mind is the JBL W15 GTI the specs of which are below.
• Die-cast vented basket
• Kevlar®-impregnated paper woofer cone
• Nitrile-butylene surround
• Power handling RMS: 800 watts
• Power handling Peak: 5,000 watts
• Mounting depth: 10-1/4"
• Cut-out diameter: 13-7/8"
• Dual 6-ohm voice coils
• Sensitivity: 92dB
Where can I find the enclosure diameters for these specifications and what kind of amplifier should I be looking to use, bearing in mind this subs capabilities.
Thank you in advance for your responses.
Sunil
Hi fellow UK DIYer 🙂
Unfortunately those parameters are meaningless and just sales nonsense. You need to know the Thiele-Small parameters. See if you can find those out, JBL are usually quite good at listing those kind of things.
I will say that you can have great success with car subs in the home.
Unfortunately those parameters are meaningless and just sales nonsense. You need to know the Thiele-Small parameters. See if you can find those out, JBL are usually quite good at listing those kind of things.
I will say that you can have great success with car subs in the home.
You can enter them in WinISD Pro or use online calculators like ISD-online.
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver
WinISD from http://www.linearteam.dk is the standard recommended package. If thats too scary for you, you could try my spreadsheet 🙂
Bear in mind that for a high excursion 12 inch driver you should be looking at a 100mm diameter round vent, tuned lower than 30Hz or wind noise will be high. You run the risk of unloading the cone with higher tuning. Lower tuning and watch out for how massive the vent length gets!
Bear in mind that for a high excursion 12 inch driver you should be looking at a 100mm diameter round vent, tuned lower than 30Hz or wind noise will be high. You run the risk of unloading the cone with higher tuning. Lower tuning and watch out for how massive the vent length gets!
I feel confused!! I got WinISD to work but I'm not sure how to get the optimum curve. I'm not sure about the differences between a sealed and ported box. I'm looking to tune the sub to try and preserve as much output as possible when droppin down to and past 20hz. However I also want to avoid any slowness so the sub can keep up to any music I throw at it.
Sorry for my general lack of knowledge but I'm a quick learner!!
Sorry for my general lack of knowledge but I'm a quick learner!!
"Slowness" is usually associated with big group delay with a subwoofer tuned too high, to avoid that, I recommend tuning at or under 20 Hz.
But then, some people find "tightness" is achieved with a big bump in the FR response with a high Qtc box to have too much midbass and less real bass.
If you want to preserve as much output down to 20 Hz, then you should go vented. If you tune at 20 Hz or lower, you will not have group delay problems.
You must include room gain into your calculations, or your subwoofer will be too much powerful down low.
Here's a room gain curve that I like to use to know how much output I can afford to lose in WinISD that this curve will compensate for.
It's at the page 5 of this document :
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_drivers/adire_shiva/ventedshiva.pdf
Good luck!
But then, some people find "tightness" is achieved with a big bump in the FR response with a high Qtc box to have too much midbass and less real bass.
If you want to preserve as much output down to 20 Hz, then you should go vented. If you tune at 20 Hz or lower, you will not have group delay problems.
You must include room gain into your calculations, or your subwoofer will be too much powerful down low.
Here's a room gain curve that I like to use to know how much output I can afford to lose in WinISD that this curve will compensate for.
It's at the page 5 of this document :
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_drivers/adire_shiva/ventedshiva.pdf
Good luck!
yeah even i wanted to know that ....
I want to use pioneer car subs for home purpose...what i am worried about is that can car subs be used for home purpose?
I want to use pioneer car subs for home purpose...what i am worried about is that can car subs be used for home purpose?
It depends on the car subwoofer.
If it's built in a box specifically for a car, probably it will not sound good in a house.
But, you can make another box suited for home use, then most car subwoofers can be used, if they aren't too cheap.
If it's built in a box specifically for a car, probably it will not sound good in a house.
But, you can make another box suited for home use, then most car subwoofers can be used, if they aren't too cheap.
I've been eyeing the W15GTI myself recently.
At some point I was browsing through JBL's pro site and found their VerTec VT4881 sub. http://www.jblpro.com/vertec1/new_vertec/vt4881.html
It has a single 15, that they call a 2256G in a large ported enclosure. I've seen pictures of the 2256G and it looks remarkably similar to the W15GTI. They both have JBL's "Differential Drive" DVC. FR for the VT4881 is claimed to be 22-125Hz +/-3dB.
TS params are here http://www.jbl.com/car/products/gti/GTi_tech_info_tsparam.asp
I put the TS params into WinISD, along with a 8ft3 (226L) box tuned to 20ish Hz and it certainly fits the description of the VT4881's FR. My guess is that the W15GTI is very similar to the 2256G and is probably very very good.
The W15GTI gets quite a bit of praise in the car sound quality competition world.
I was also considering a adire tumult or brahma. The JBL is a bit more efficient though.
How about if you buy one, try it out and let us know?! 😀
- Robert
At some point I was browsing through JBL's pro site and found their VerTec VT4881 sub. http://www.jblpro.com/vertec1/new_vertec/vt4881.html
It has a single 15, that they call a 2256G in a large ported enclosure. I've seen pictures of the 2256G and it looks remarkably similar to the W15GTI. They both have JBL's "Differential Drive" DVC. FR for the VT4881 is claimed to be 22-125Hz +/-3dB.
TS params are here http://www.jbl.com/car/products/gti/GTi_tech_info_tsparam.asp
I put the TS params into WinISD, along with a 8ft3 (226L) box tuned to 20ish Hz and it certainly fits the description of the VT4881's FR. My guess is that the W15GTI is very similar to the 2256G and is probably very very good.
The W15GTI gets quite a bit of praise in the car sound quality competition world.
I was also considering a adire tumult or brahma. The JBL is a bit more efficient though.
How about if you buy one, try it out and let us know?! 😀
- Robert
When using subs for car in home audio, you have to be carefull of the ohms also. Must car subs are 4 ohm and a lot of home audio is 8 ohm. I am planning on using car subs (cheap ones!) for my first home audio subwoofer, just because I have them. I have to wire two 4-ohm subs in series to get the required 8 ohms.
What kind of amp should I use for the driver? I'd preferably like to drive the sub at its full 800 watts RMS
Robert, bear in mind that the measured FR for the Vertec is probably at -10db, as is standard with pro kit.
pinkmouse said:
the link I posted above lists +/-3db 22-125 Hz, and +/-10db from 18-160 Hz.
- Robert
You want to use true 800W RMS ? Unless you're going for a small sealed box or a box with Linkwitz Transform, it's overkill.
I'm using the sub in a big home cinema basement which also doubles as a party room so need a lot of headroom. Maybe overkill but I'd hate to spend so much money and ever hear my sub bottom out.
That's the problem, because you will have so much power, you will bottom out the subwoofer easily, unless you use a small sealed enclosure, which will not sound good in a house.
You could use all that extra power for a Linkwitz Transform if your goal is to use a small enclosure.
You could use all that extra power for a Linkwitz Transform if your goal is to use a small enclosure.
I modeled it in WinISD, and yes you can use alot of power without bottoming out this driver, so my general comment isn't applicable to this woofer.
Sorry.
BTW, tell us what is the maximum size you can tolerate for the box size. This woofer seems to want a really large box.
Sorry.
BTW, tell us what is the maximum size you can tolerate for the box size. This woofer seems to want a really large box.
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