I need to replace/repair tweeters on Celestion D10s.
I can't find any or suitable other make/model replacements.
If these are blown is it the diaphragm/coil that gets damaged and would it be a case of attempting to replace these micro parts as I noticed that someone in the states is selling the coils and diaphragms.
I can't find any or suitable other make/model replacements.
If these are blown is it the diaphragm/coil that gets damaged and would it be a case of attempting to replace these micro parts as I noticed that someone in the states is selling the coils and diaphragms.
If these are blown is it the diaphragm/coil that gets damaged and would it be a case of attempting to replace these micro parts
That is correct.
This is the DL10 Series 2:
I believe the same, or similar, aluminium dome tweeter is employed in the DL8.
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There are two DL8 tweeters on sale right now:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12669769...9BbA8owbTxH+S7R78aa94LyooZ|tkp:Bk9SR8zL3fjHZA
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12669769...9BbA8owbTxH+S7R78aa94LyooZ|tkp:Bk9SR8zL3fjHZA
I wasn't sure about an identical fit, but the fact that these claimed "tested and working" tweeters do not work would warrant contact with the seller.
How important are these Celestion speakers to you? Would you accept a "near enough" budget tweeter?
P.S. For reference, I have found the following parameters that are purported to be those of the DL10 tweeter:
How important are these Celestion speakers to you? Would you accept a "near enough" budget tweeter?
P.S. For reference, I have found the following parameters that are purported to be those of the DL10 tweeter:
- Manufacturer: Celestion
- Model: JT-18 Tweeter (DL-10)
- Piston Diameter = 34.9 mm
- f(s)= 1797 Hz
- R(e)= 6.29 Ohms
- Z(max)= 9.84 Ohms
- Q(ms)= 1.144
- Q(es)= 2.025
- Q(ts)= 0.731
- L(e)= 0.52 mH
Before contacting the seller, it may be prudent to test the tweeters directly.
See if connecting/disconnecting a 1.5 V battery across the tweeter terminals elicits any scratching sound.
I test tweeters by connecting them to the headphone socket of a portable radio via a 4.7 uF non-polar capacitor.
You can get away without the capacitor if you test quickly at very low volume.
Of course, you can always test for coil continuity with the ohms scale of your multimeter!
See if connecting/disconnecting a 1.5 V battery across the tweeter terminals elicits any scratching sound.
I test tweeters by connecting them to the headphone socket of a portable radio via a 4.7 uF non-polar capacitor.
You can get away without the capacitor if you test quickly at very low volume.
Of course, you can always test for coil continuity with the ohms scale of your multimeter!
The seller is fine. Turns out "he asked someone else to test" got a full refund. No issues. I would certainly accept a near enough budget tweeter and thanks for sharing the spec. The issue would be fitment I suppose.
When you test with a battery do you wire up +/- and briefly touch terminals?
When you test with a battery do you wire up +/- and briefly touch terminals?
EDIT!
Wire up the tweeter as you suggest and stroke the battery terminals!
P.S. Please supply all dimensions of your DL10 tweeters.
Wire up the tweeter as you suggest and stroke the battery terminals!
P.S. Please supply all dimensions of your DL10 tweeters.
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You'll have caught my original suggestion before I made my edit. Either way will do. Jury-rig, no soldering required.
Hope this is clear. DL10 tweeter drawing.
It's clear if I stand on my head!

The faceplate (converted to a rectangle) is 140 mm (w) x 110 mm (h) which is large compared to what I see available.
You could make a mockup of the DL10 faceplate from aluminium sheet, into which a smaller tweeter would fit.
However, finding a replacement tweeter that is a good electromechanical match for the DL10 tweeter is a problem.
You could make a mockup of the DL10 faceplate from aluminium sheet, into which a smaller tweeter would fit.
However, finding a replacement tweeter that is a good electromechanical match for the DL10 tweeter is a problem.
I've ruled out trying to fit the DL8 tweeter to the DL10 plate due to cone aperture size and screw alignment so I have some 2mm steel which I'm thinking of cutting and drilling to match the DL10 plate size. Screw that to front baffle and in turn fix the DL8 tweeter. Wish me luck 🤞 or I may be able to put a thin bit ply instead shaped there is enough room to not touch cloth, as they say.
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