I would like to try to power an Infinity Basslink subwoofer, which is a "car subwoofer" meaning 12 volt DC powered (200 Wrms max), using what I would consider a very unusual method. I'd like to know if the method below could be used so I don't have to go out and purchase a proper "AC to DC converter." This is just to see how much better it would sound than an existing "home theater sub" that was made with a 1/4" thick wood enclosure.
Here is the given equipment with "discussion labels" in parentheses:
Electrical power connections would then be: (1) ChrgPos connected to BattPos and BattPos connected to SubPos and then (2) ChrgNeg connected to BattNeg and BattNeg connected to SubNeg. I believe this would be called a "parallel wiring scheme." Proper gauge wire would be used, heh. Battery charger could also be placed in the 2A max continuous mode (aka trickle charge mode) but that might not put out enough current.
The audio signal would be supplied as normal via the RCA jacks.
The goal is to not only keep the battery getting enough charge but also use the battery as a "buffer/capacitor" to supply jumps in current during short high-amperage bursts (similar to how caps are used in car audio).
Would this work or not? I just want to hear what a much better constructed sub than the existing one would sound. And, yes, I know, the Basslink isn't much of a "step up" from a 1/4" wood enclosure sub that came with the HT setup but I'd like to try it if it would work.
Thanks for reading and any suggestions!
Here is the given equipment with "discussion labels" in parentheses:
Subwoofer: Infinity Basslink; 12A max draw; expects ~12VDC into (SubPos) and (SubNeg) terminals.
Battery: deep cycle HD24-DP; 12VDC; 405 CCA; 505 MCA; (BattPos) and (BattNeg) terminals.
Battery charger: in the 10A max continuous output mode; (ChrgPos) and (ChrgNeg) "output" clamps; accepts AC line power.
Electrical power connections would then be: (1) ChrgPos connected to BattPos and BattPos connected to SubPos and then (2) ChrgNeg connected to BattNeg and BattNeg connected to SubNeg. I believe this would be called a "parallel wiring scheme." Proper gauge wire would be used, heh. Battery charger could also be placed in the 2A max continuous mode (aka trickle charge mode) but that might not put out enough current.
The audio signal would be supplied as normal via the RCA jacks.
The goal is to not only keep the battery getting enough charge but also use the battery as a "buffer/capacitor" to supply jumps in current during short high-amperage bursts (similar to how caps are used in car audio).
Would this work or not? I just want to hear what a much better constructed sub than the existing one would sound. And, yes, I know, the Basslink isn't much of a "step up" from a 1/4" wood enclosure sub that came with the HT setup but I'd like to try it if it would work.
Thanks for reading and any suggestions!
You will cook your car battery if you leave it on full charge for very long, I do not recommend it. Batteries are not capacitors, they produce an electrical charge via chemistry and a strong battery would only need a trickle charge for maintenance, the battery does all the work. Besides a 12A max load from the sub is nothing compared to the 600 cold cranking amps a battery is designed for, the battery will laugh at the sub.
All the parts needed for a typical power supply would be less expensive then the battery and car charger.
All the parts needed for a typical power supply would be less expensive then the battery and car charger.
But would it work in 2A mode though? (using the charger)
I just want a 10 minute listening session without ruining this deep cycle battery. That is all
It isn't really my battery...on loan from an RV and a brother, heh. I keep it charged by trickle charging in 2A mode a few days every winter month in MN here.
I just have everything already available but don't want acid to explode everywhere or the battery charger to fry immediately or the sub to fry immediately.
Thanks!
I just want a 10 minute listening session without ruining this deep cycle battery. That is all
It isn't really my battery...on loan from an RV and a brother, heh. I keep it charged by trickle charging in 2A mode a few days every winter month in MN here.
I just have everything already available but don't want acid to explode everywhere or the battery charger to fry immediately or the sub to fry immediately.
Thanks!
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open up the amp and measure the working DC voltages on the supply rails.
Disable the DC-DC converter and build an AC to DC PSU to feed the required voltages to the amplifier.
The amp will run cooler (no PSU losses to dissipate) and run better (no smps interference to inter-modulate with the wanted audio signals).
Disable the DC-DC converter and build an AC to DC PSU to feed the required voltages to the amplifier.
The amp will run cooler (no PSU losses to dissipate) and run better (no smps interference to inter-modulate with the wanted audio signals).
If all you are doing is a 10 minute listening test this is what I recommend you do.
First, place the battery on the chargers lowest setting, this is probably the 2A "trickle charge" mode for several hours in advance to your test run.
Next just hook the battery up to the amplifier without the charger. That battery has a specification in amp/hours, in this case you can run the batter at 15 amps for 3.2 hours. A 10 minute listening session will not even bother the battery.
After you are done listening place the battery back on the charger for 6 hours on the low setting again.
I never recommend the high setting for batteries unless you are in a rush and it is a necessity. I also never trust battery chargers, every hour or so I would feel the battery to make sure it isn't getting hot.
***Note: Deep cycle batteries I think are designed to get drained down to 50% of their charge. These batteries are used for trolling motors etc that run for hours without being charged. They can actually be run down to 20% of charge but it won't help the life of the battery.
That sounds OK to me. The amp will only use significant current when the bass hits. You could probably run it for a couple of hours without draining the battery much.
If you want to power a car amp for long periods, investigate using a computer ATX power supply. Some people claim to have run car amps off them successfully. I haven't tried it myself, but it seems plausible.
If you want to power a car amp for long periods, investigate using a computer ATX power supply. Some people claim to have run car amps off them successfully. I haven't tried it myself, but it seems plausible.
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If the battery reads 12.2v or more, just hook it up. Dont even bother with the charger. Your battery is perfect for the task.
If you decide to keep using the sub, use an old computer PSU like dangus suggests.
To start it, short pin 14 (green wire) to one of the GND pins, like 15, 17, 18 etc.
Some units wont work properly if only one of the rails are loaded, so you might have to put some load on the 3.3 and 5v rails. I just connected an old HDD.
Most ATX power supplies are very rugged compared to many other SMPS, so long term operation is not a problem.
Built for 100-120% load, not 30-40% like most of the "For High-End/Hi-Fi units"
Some older units have a rather low switching frequency <40Khz , and poor filtering. But it shouldn´t be a problem when powering a subwoofer.
PSU from a PS3 is also an option.. 12v 30A.
If you decide to keep using the sub, use an old computer PSU like dangus suggests.
To start it, short pin 14 (green wire) to one of the GND pins, like 15, 17, 18 etc.
Some units wont work properly if only one of the rails are loaded, so you might have to put some load on the 3.3 and 5v rails. I just connected an old HDD.
Most ATX power supplies are very rugged compared to many other SMPS, so long term operation is not a problem.
Built for 100-120% load, not 30-40% like most of the "For High-End/Hi-Fi units"
Some older units have a rather low switching frequency <40Khz , and poor filtering. But it shouldn´t be a problem when powering a subwoofer.
PSU from a PS3 is also an option.. 12v 30A.
i use an old Xbox supply to power a car deck and small amp 75 wpc amp works great.(portable camping stereo when i don't have access to AC i can run it off my trailer or car battery)
the Xbox supply puts out 12 vdc@ 12.5 amp which would be enough to run your Infinity sub.
the charger scheme is noisy as hell
the Xbox supply puts out 12 vdc@ 12.5 amp which would be enough to run your Infinity sub.
the charger scheme is noisy as hell
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