My JBL's lost the foam surrounds last year and I had them rebuilt, plus paid to upgrade the crossovers. After about 6 months of use they died. Weird, both of them lost the woofers at almost the same time. Anyway, I decided it was time for a change. I have never owned horns and I've often wondered about Klipsch, so I looked into a couple of pair. I also looked at Zaph's 12.3 and was almost ready to start cutting the cabinets when I went off on a tangent and ended up with Cornscala's instead.
I wanted to modify the design some to allow for a split cabinet. After talking to Bob Crites on the phone he gave me some ideas and I went back to draw some more. I loaded everything into CutList and checked design for precuts at the yard and for an idea how much these things would cost.
I wanted to modify the design some to allow for a split cabinet. After talking to Bob Crites on the phone he gave me some ideas and I went back to draw some more. I loaded everything into CutList and checked design for precuts at the yard and for an idea how much these things would cost.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You know, you really can't go wrong with anything like a Cornwall. IMO a two way Cornwall with the HF drivers of today is just might about the safest possible build a person could imagine. And if you go in the digital AES/SPIDIF input if something like the Behringer SRC X-over/DSP units and get everything right there is scarcely any compromise whatsoever as these units up-sample to 96 and do all DSP there.
What I do see some people doing which truly does muddy up the works is putting something like the analog out of a CD player into the analog inputs of something like the MiniDsp. Now you might be doing this: A to D conversion at the recording studio, then D to A conversion at the output of the CD unit, then another A to D conversion at the analog input of the MiniDsp then inside the MiniDSP and a hell of a lot of consumer grade sound cards, the god awful mess (if you are using a CD player) of 44.1 to 48 khz completely non-integer interpolation with *nasty* non-integer rounding errors and audible artifacts, then to top it all off with one more D to A conversion at the receiver before the pre and power amps, and it can get worse with DSP going inside there (the receiver) as well!
My point is I *do* see this occurring a great deal, (and let no one tell you all this in inaudible, it simply is *not* true) I deal with this on a daily basis trying to undo this sort of damage in my mixing/mastering arena, and questioning people on what they are using to listen to all of my hard work! All of this is simply eliminated by this simple rule: Once the signal has been converted to digital ( And this A to D occurs at the time of recording) *keep* it in the digital domain until the DA conversion is done at the last stage before power amp and speaker, That is, you want to see ONE conversion to digital, and ONE back to analog, And oh yes, The Red book spec for cds is 44.1 kHz. Interim non-integer conversion from 44.1 to 48 *is* going to be audible to some degree.
I do see that the MiniDsp people are now offering units that are digital in and now up-sample higher than 48, this is acceptable and laudable. . It is my observation that there is very little loss up-sampling then DSP to 96khz or higher even with a non integer 44.1 red book standard CD digital signal. Of course this 44.1 to 48 thing has no bearing on other sources other than CD's but the multiple AD-DA-AD-AD-DA ad infinity thing is still the biggest offender.
I mention all of this because Klipsch and other horn loaded speakers high efficiency speakers are fully capable of highlighting all of these artifacts and issues that I have noted in this post, High efficiency speakers really are revealing of such "minutia" I have noted that there are some speaker makers that are implementing or planning on implementing the MiniDSP internal; " native 48khz DSP " units. I really frown on this, This can negate everything that a great speaker does for us. Have fun with your Klipsch and horns, it's a new and "brighter" world in every good sense of the word. If this has been covered and recovered here, fair enough.It likely bears repeating nevertheless.
*Edit that counts* > I see that the MiniDsp people are only doing the 48khz thing in only *one* (the lowest priced and simplest unit) of their products now, and that is great news! Kudos to them for addressing this, the specs look great now on the rest,
What I do see some people doing which truly does muddy up the works is putting something like the analog out of a CD player into the analog inputs of something like the MiniDsp. Now you might be doing this: A to D conversion at the recording studio, then D to A conversion at the output of the CD unit, then another A to D conversion at the analog input of the MiniDsp then inside the MiniDSP and a hell of a lot of consumer grade sound cards, the god awful mess (if you are using a CD player) of 44.1 to 48 khz completely non-integer interpolation with *nasty* non-integer rounding errors and audible artifacts, then to top it all off with one more D to A conversion at the receiver before the pre and power amps, and it can get worse with DSP going inside there (the receiver) as well!
My point is I *do* see this occurring a great deal, (and let no one tell you all this in inaudible, it simply is *not* true) I deal with this on a daily basis trying to undo this sort of damage in my mixing/mastering arena, and questioning people on what they are using to listen to all of my hard work! All of this is simply eliminated by this simple rule: Once the signal has been converted to digital ( And this A to D occurs at the time of recording) *keep* it in the digital domain until the DA conversion is done at the last stage before power amp and speaker, That is, you want to see ONE conversion to digital, and ONE back to analog, And oh yes, The Red book spec for cds is 44.1 kHz. Interim non-integer conversion from 44.1 to 48 *is* going to be audible to some degree.
I do see that the MiniDsp people are now offering units that are digital in and now up-sample higher than 48, this is acceptable and laudable. . It is my observation that there is very little loss up-sampling then DSP to 96khz or higher even with a non integer 44.1 red book standard CD digital signal. Of course this 44.1 to 48 thing has no bearing on other sources other than CD's but the multiple AD-DA-AD-AD-DA ad infinity thing is still the biggest offender.
I mention all of this because Klipsch and other horn loaded speakers high efficiency speakers are fully capable of highlighting all of these artifacts and issues that I have noted in this post, High efficiency speakers really are revealing of such "minutia" I have noted that there are some speaker makers that are implementing or planning on implementing the MiniDSP internal; " native 48khz DSP " units. I really frown on this, This can negate everything that a great speaker does for us. Have fun with your Klipsch and horns, it's a new and "brighter" world in every good sense of the word. If this has been covered and recovered here, fair enough.It likely bears repeating nevertheless.
*Edit that counts* > I see that the MiniDsp people are only doing the 48khz thing in only *one* (the lowest priced and simplest unit) of their products now, and that is great news! Kudos to them for addressing this, the specs look great now on the rest,
Last edited:
Here is the original thread from last year when I blew the JBL's. It has a diagram of my room showing the dimensions. I am looking to replace my preamp as part of this upgrade. In my area there is Sherbourn PT-7020A, or an Anthem MRX-500. I like the Anthem as it would eliminate the need for a 3 channel amp when I add to the home theater setup.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/198610-thinking-about-building-some-sr71s.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/198610-thinking-about-building-some-sr71s.html
Last edited:
I struggled with whether or not to build a set of prototypes from MDF. I had a friend who wanted a pair, but in the end I wanted them quick so I went off the deep end and milled the real stuff first. I wanted to pay homage to the Klipsch heritage, but I could not stomach bare edged plywood. Since I build guitar cabinets I relate to resonance, and in fact I mill my solid wood cabs to 5/8" to cater to it. But for me, I want my hifi cabs to be MDF. All of the internal parts are MDF, motor board is MDF and some external parts are raw MDF. For cabinetry I took a while to think about what I wanted. I decided I wanted the **** joints similar to the old Klipsch, but with edge banding. There were some options in veneer core ply, but I chose A1 cherry over 3/4 MDF. With a little design tweaking I kept it down to 2 sheets of cherry, and 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF. Total for wood was $260.
I chopped up the raw MDF parts first, and then went to the lumber yard and picked up 2 sheets of cherry. Pulled them onto my workbench and started the rough breakdown, then final dimensions on the table saw.
I chopped up the raw MDF parts first, and then went to the lumber yard and picked up 2 sheets of cherry. Pulled them onto my workbench and started the rough breakdown, then final dimensions on the table saw.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I use a Festool Domino for my quick and dirty joinery. I still have a biscuit joiner, and I use it when I need something sloppy and moveable, but the Domino rules for strength and precision. All MDF faces get a double coat of Titebond III, mortises are filled and 8x40MM dominos are used. Clamped under pressure for 4 hours each. You really only need 2, but there was other things to do anyway, so why not.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is a shot of the coffee table I am trying to match. There are a few other cherry pieces in this room too, but the walnut strips in this will be close to where the speakers are.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Further progress fueled by Dragon's Milk... bass cabinets are clamped and the shells done. Prebuilt some bracing and they will get sanded for some preliminary finishing. Backs are done and the access hole for the cross over is done.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Worked on a finish that I have used before and it seems nice on the backs. Boiled linseed oil that sits for 24 hours. Then 3 coats of hand rubbed General Finish Arm-R-Seal gloss, steel wool between each coat. Then sand with 320 and apply 2 more coats of Arm-R-Seal semi-gloss. This is then hand sanded with 400 and it will be shot with laquer, probably a semi-gloss or some type of eggshell satin.
Pics are accompanied by a Pipeworks Hyperdog.
The bottom cabinets have the ports to the upper chamber cut, as well as the middle piece. A template was made from mdf and then the final dimension was cut with a pattern bit. I truly hate mdf, it is a complete mess. I have not done a project with it in a long time, and I had forgotten how much I hated it. I had to wear a respirator to mill this stuff, and once this project is done it will take a full day to clean out the shop.
Pics are accompanied by a Pipeworks Hyperdog.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The bottom cabinets have the ports to the upper chamber cut, as well as the middle piece. A template was made from mdf and then the final dimension was cut with a pattern bit. I truly hate mdf, it is a complete mess. I have not done a project with it in a long time, and I had forgotten how much I hated it. I had to wear a respirator to mill this stuff, and once this project is done it will take a full day to clean out the shop.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The lower enclosures were dampened with carpet padding and automotive headliner fabric. Just some minor dampening to breakup any resonance that might happen, and help to clean up things for a little more clarity. Final sanding prep using 400 grit and these cabinets are really looking great. I did a quick stacking of the components to check proportions and get some idea as to what they will look like complete. The most noteworthy part of the evening was the Goose Island Night Stalker. I've never seen this one before, and it was incredible.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I finished milling the motorboard assembly for the lower cabinet. It was not that difficult. I use double sided tape to attach the waste backing board to the MDF. This way it doesn't come loose when the final cut is taken and bind into router or other nastiness.
Then I use a Jasper Circle Guide to cut out the 4 speaker holes. Everything gets screwed together and test fitted both to the speaker and the cabinet.
At the end of it all it is time to celebrate with a Dale's Pale Ale. One of the nicest pale's available. The head coming out of the can is really special.
I did the motorboards almost exactly per the plans on Bob Crites's site. Looking at it now I think I would do some things differently, primarily to tighten up the dimensions. The outer diameter is a little fat, and the depth (3/4") gained by doing a full cut out on the primary board is too much. You could get away with a 5/8" rabbet and about 1/8" (or more) reduction in the larger speaker hole.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then I use a Jasper Circle Guide to cut out the 4 speaker holes. Everything gets screwed together and test fitted both to the speaker and the cabinet.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
At the end of it all it is time to celebrate with a Dale's Pale Ale. One of the nicest pale's available. The head coming out of the can is really special.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I did the motorboards almost exactly per the plans on Bob Crites's site. Looking at it now I think I would do some things differently, primarily to tighten up the dimensions. The outer diameter is a little fat, and the depth (3/4") gained by doing a full cut out on the primary board is too much. You could get away with a 5/8" rabbet and about 1/8" (or more) reduction in the larger speaker hole.
Major upgrade today. Anthem MRX-500 to serve as a pre and drive the surround and center channels when I get them built next year. Going HDMI from the dvd player to the Anthem. I should upgrade my cd transport, but I blew the budget on the pre and the speakers.
Last edited:
I have a space issue because these things are monsters. In order for everything to fit, I need to eliminate my rack. I can fit two pieces under the tv for now, but I need to be able to fit two pieces to the side. I was digging around the wood rack and found two pieces of heavily figured cherry and walnut that I have had for 6 years or more. This seemed like a good time to use them, and build something to match the Cornscala's. Here's a pic of the cherry rough sawn. Cool figure, but a lot of minerals.
I had an idea about what I wanted, and to really work with the curl I like to use hand tools. I broke out the block plane and spoke shave to carve me out a set of legs. Then the panels were laid up and hand scraped.
I lost a full day blowing up one of the motor boards for the upper cab. All the way to the final milling op, and I took a chance that cost me the entire piece. I wanted to shoot the Cornscala tomorrow, but now there is no way. I have to say the texture on the side panels is excellent. Now I just have to recreate it for the motorboards
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I had an idea about what I wanted, and to really work with the curl I like to use hand tools. I broke out the block plane and spoke shave to carve me out a set of legs. Then the panels were laid up and hand scraped.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I lost a full day blowing up one of the motor boards for the upper cab. All the way to the final milling op, and I took a chance that cost me the entire piece. I wanted to shoot the Cornscala tomorrow, but now there is no way. I have to say the texture on the side panels is excellent. Now I just have to recreate it for the motorboards
I finished everything the lower cabs needed to be ready for laquer tomorrow. The footer is attached, the motorboard is in place and the seperator/brace is screwed to the top. The backs were put in place and the hardwood batting predrilled for #6 brass screws. They will get sanded down later to prep for tomorrow.
The ubiquitous Bigbys Pour House glass is primed with a Southern Tier Creme Brulee just below freezing.
The ubiquitous Bigbys Pour House glass is primed with a Southern Tier Creme Brulee just below freezing.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here are a few more pictures from this evening. The first shows the bottom and how it overlaps the **** joint on the lower part of the cabinet. This helps reinforce that joint that is holding all the weight of everything above it.
Then a picture of the front of the upper cab with the textured side panels in place. This shows how far back the panels extend to reinforce those vertical walls.
Then a shot of the final bit of work this evening. I took the spare motorboard that I blew up with the router and used it to test fit the horn. Now I can build the support in the back to hold that driver.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then a picture of the front of the upper cab with the textured side panels in place. This shows how far back the panels extend to reinforce those vertical walls.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then a shot of the final bit of work this evening. I took the spare motorboard that I blew up with the router and used it to test fit the horn. Now I can build the support in the back to hold that driver.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Finished installing the motorboards in the upper cabinets, added reinforcement to the tops and the brace supports are in. After they get sprayed I will put in the braces. The dampening is done for these, and they are ready to spray. I will be glad when these are done.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I just finished the final spray on the speakers and they will be ready for assembly tomorrow. I am excited to hear them. The finish went down really, really well and it was the first time I used the Chemcraft Varicure product. It is freakishly durable to everything, household chemicals, 409 - whatever. The guys over at Chicagoland Finishing Materials were a huge help and really know their stuff. The order of finish was:
1) 1 coat of boiled linseed oil (hand rubbed)
2) 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (hand rubbed and then cured for 1 week). Sand with 320 and then 400.
3) 1 coat of Chemcraft Variseal. Sand with 400.
4) 2 coats of Chemcraft Varicure Satin. Sand with 600 before final coat.
The mini audio stand for the two components is done too. Curly cherry and walnut, and walnut pins for the bottom shelf. The bottom shelf will hold my Hafler 9303 Transnova amp, so it needed to be a bit sturdier. The order of finish was:
1) 1 coat of tung oil (hand rubbed and cured for 48 hours)
2) 1 coat of Chemcraft Variseal
3) 2 coats of Chemcraft Varicure Satin
Everything will get rubbed out with a coat of Renaissance Wax tomorrow after it cures out.
1) 1 coat of boiled linseed oil (hand rubbed)
2) 3 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (hand rubbed and then cured for 1 week). Sand with 320 and then 400.
3) 1 coat of Chemcraft Variseal. Sand with 400.
4) 2 coats of Chemcraft Varicure Satin. Sand with 600 before final coat.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The mini audio stand for the two components is done too. Curly cherry and walnut, and walnut pins for the bottom shelf. The bottom shelf will hold my Hafler 9303 Transnova amp, so it needed to be a bit sturdier. The order of finish was:
1) 1 coat of tung oil (hand rubbed and cured for 48 hours)
2) 1 coat of Chemcraft Variseal
3) 2 coats of Chemcraft Varicure Satin
Everything will get rubbed out with a coat of Renaissance Wax tomorrow after it cures out.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.