I have been listening to these for a few days. They are pleasant and that cheap 4" woofer actually sounds balanced in the bass, but I can hear what TNT audio shows for the frequency response in elevated mids and high treble. As the woofer has no crossover, I am thinking to add a 1mh inductor to knock down that peak a 1khz a bit, then put a 30-ohm resistor across the tweeter and change the one capacitor from 3.3uf to 4uf to pull the level down a bit. If you have any ideas just from looking at that graph of how you would tweak it, please share.
Hi @TicoLizard,
I made some tests and designed various simple crossover version for my couple of lonpoo.
I've found that the best and more versatile component is the small woofer, while the tweeter isn't much refined and works well at higher frequencies.
When I tried to go lower with the crossover point the result wasn't very satisfying and the speakers lost the tonal richness and coherence in mid-range frequencies. The frequency response was balanced but not good to hear in real situations.
So I decided to keep a simple design with a better polyestere 3,3 uf (same original value) and a 1,2ohm resistor for the tweeter, next to a 0,33 mh inductance for the woofer.
Plus I inserted a transverse reinforcement for a better cabinet solidity.
The small inductance controls the harshness in medium-high frequencies where woofer and tweeter overlap, while the resistor lowers the original too much high emission level above 4,5-5khz.
The result is good, with some losses in terms of exuberance but with more linearity and coherence.
I made some tests and designed various simple crossover version for my couple of lonpoo.
I've found that the best and more versatile component is the small woofer, while the tweeter isn't much refined and works well at higher frequencies.
When I tried to go lower with the crossover point the result wasn't very satisfying and the speakers lost the tonal richness and coherence in mid-range frequencies. The frequency response was balanced but not good to hear in real situations.
So I decided to keep a simple design with a better polyestere 3,3 uf (same original value) and a 1,2ohm resistor for the tweeter, next to a 0,33 mh inductance for the woofer.
Plus I inserted a transverse reinforcement for a better cabinet solidity.
The small inductance controls the harshness in medium-high frequencies where woofer and tweeter overlap, while the resistor lowers the original too much high emission level above 4,5-5khz.
The result is good, with some losses in terms of exuberance but with more linearity and coherence.
Hi @enrico.z
After add the 1mh coil, I still had a huge 1.7 khz peak that I did some APO eq to tame, but still the vocals get a bit harsh at higher volumes. So I ordered a pair of Peerless 830870 and am crossing my fingers that they will fit the cutouts. As a stroke of luck, I can reuse the 1mh coil and just parallel a 5 ohm resistor for 6db baffle step. Then it is just a matter of getting the tweeter to sound right. I think the Peerless will let me push the tweeter higher, so thanks for discovering the problem crossing too low. Maybe a 2.2uf will work. If not, maybe pad it down a bit.
After add the 1mh coil, I still had a huge 1.7 khz peak that I did some APO eq to tame, but still the vocals get a bit harsh at higher volumes. So I ordered a pair of Peerless 830870 and am crossing my fingers that they will fit the cutouts. As a stroke of luck, I can reuse the 1mh coil and just parallel a 5 ohm resistor for 6db baffle step. Then it is just a matter of getting the tweeter to sound right. I think the Peerless will let me push the tweeter higher, so thanks for discovering the problem crossing too low. Maybe a 2.2uf will work. If not, maybe pad it down a bit.
Hi @TicoLizard,
I think it could be a too expensive trick for a 50€/$ speaker. The small 4 inch mid bass drivers are very good with an excellent speed and dynamic. They can't go really low for physical reasons but I think they have a lot of character and well controlled bass.
So I hope you'll be satisfied with the new Peerless drivers, but I'd opted for a further modification in the crossover design.
For the tweeter I think the 3,3uf could work, especially with a 2nd or 3rd order cut, but it depends on how good the Peerless driver covers his higher frequency range.
I think it could be a too expensive trick for a 50€/$ speaker. The small 4 inch mid bass drivers are very good with an excellent speed and dynamic. They can't go really low for physical reasons but I think they have a lot of character and well controlled bass.
So I hope you'll be satisfied with the new Peerless drivers, but I'd opted for a further modification in the crossover design.
For the tweeter I think the 3,3uf could work, especially with a 2nd or 3rd order cut, but it depends on how good the Peerless driver covers his higher frequency range.
Hi @enrico.z
Looks like the Peerless is good and smooth out past 4khz, so I think it will be ok. I know I will spend twice as much as the original speakers on parts, but I like to listen loud and it starts to get harsh in the upper vocal range. So right now the plan is baffle step compensation and a zobel on the Peerless, and maybe add a 0.44 mh coil for first order at 3khz. Then I will try the 3.3uf like you suggest with Lpad to drop tweeter level and test to see if it can get loud and clean. I have some Dayton RS180s in ported boxes as pseudo subs. I will cross the Lonpoos to the RS180s at 150hz and sit them on top. I get the parts next week, so we will see if the plan is successful or a disaster.
Looks like the Peerless is good and smooth out past 4khz, so I think it will be ok. I know I will spend twice as much as the original speakers on parts, but I like to listen loud and it starts to get harsh in the upper vocal range. So right now the plan is baffle step compensation and a zobel on the Peerless, and maybe add a 0.44 mh coil for first order at 3khz. Then I will try the 3.3uf like you suggest with Lpad to drop tweeter level and test to see if it can get loud and clean. I have some Dayton RS180s in ported boxes as pseudo subs. I will cross the Lonpoos to the RS180s at 150hz and sit them on top. I get the parts next week, so we will see if the plan is successful or a disaster.
Quick question about the LonPoo LP42 - I believe this is really Micca MB42 or MB42x ? I believe the difference between those 2 speakers were the crossover is better in the MB42x - so I guess I am wondering if I can also follow recommended upgrades and associated videos for the MB42 or or the MB42x?
Thanks yes that is what they look like 😀
I have a pair of LonPoo and mostly I like them (they are currently in a corner so I think the bass is enhanced without any upgrades ) - but I was thinking of moving them to be desktop speakers and because they are so cheap I was thinking this could be my first "diy" upgrade (I do like messing about with stuff) - but then I spotted lots of upgrade options with Micca (and it make me think which model of Micca is the LonPoo) and would it be worthwhile to use the components people used when upgrading their Micca.
I have a pair of LonPoo and mostly I like them (they are currently in a corner so I think the bass is enhanced without any upgrades ) - but I was thinking of moving them to be desktop speakers and because they are so cheap I was thinking this could be my first "diy" upgrade (I do like messing about with stuff) - but then I spotted lots of upgrade options with Micca (and it make me think which model of Micca is the LonPoo) and would it be worthwhile to use the components people used when upgrading their Micca.