DAYTON4 - BUGET SMALL 2 WAYS
ORIGINAL DESIGN BY DUANE BROWN
You can find his design including original enclosure size, crossover components and everything related on Mr Duane Brown page:
https://duanebrowndesigns.blogspot.com/2018/10/getting-your-feet-wet-in-diy-speakers.html?m=1
You can also find the several reviews and variations on this design on several forums...including good comments from really good speaker designers, and also for the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4” woofer that is used on this 2 way speaker known by the bass it can produce.
The reasons to choose this design where easy:
*A small 2 way with flat response, details and clarity. There is plenty of images with the frequency response and such.
*Components where cheap…i´m in south america so shipping cost are also take in account.
*Few components crossover… i read/think too much about the changes that every electrical component/equipment adds to the sound, this is a series crossover, only 4 parts.
*Small size and Area to be fulfilled… Just a small living room.
*Good reviews for design and components… from designers on other forums and the drivers itself on youtube.
*They are been made as a gift for my Dad (73)…so he doesn't need to get a Beryllium tweeter either way (Even when he deserve it..i cannot afford it)
*Also for my to compare it with a full range MarkAudio speaker that i build on planet10 mFonken enclosure that i REALLY like as was my first diy speaker and i'm still impress on how a good FR driver with no crossover whatsoever sounds that good.
DRIVERS:
Woofer Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4”
Tweeter Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8”
CROSSOVER:
3 OHM 10W RESISTOR
0.20mH 18 AWG COIL
8.0uF CAPACITOR
1.0uF CAPACITOR
ENCLOSURE
I do changes in the cabinet outside dimensions, trying to apply the theory on Direct Radiator Loudspeaker Enclosures by Olson Harry.. also to impress my Dad on what carpentry with cnc can do now days.. the internal dimension where the same that other builder used on Mr Duane design and call it the ¨Deluxe version¨ as he made it a litter bigger and change the crossover components to polypropylene versions on the capacitors. The original enclosure is 8” tall, 6”wide, and 8.5” deep.
The enclosure material is 18mm pine plywood, lining the internal walls with recycled denim, the material used on car trunks/carpets.
I think i don't have anything more to cover so here some pictures of the build process=
FLAT PACK..To call it in that way
The letters on the top are my dad´s name initial..in case you are wondering
Baffle -- recess cut for driver to be flush mount and release on back to let it flow
Binding post cut manually done, as the cnc guy ¨forgot¨to do it...not finished in this photo
Glued together - I'm missing a photo with the internal material--next time i post
Crossover assembly - testing - finished
and the Ufoken enclosure with Markaudio CHR-70.3 that i did as my first diy speaker that i want to compare against this 2way design
I will post more picture as i progress with the process.. hope this week is going to be complete already.
And by the way English is not my native/first lenguage in case it wasn't noticed
ORIGINAL DESIGN BY DUANE BROWN
You can find his design including original enclosure size, crossover components and everything related on Mr Duane Brown page:
https://duanebrowndesigns.blogspot.com/2018/10/getting-your-feet-wet-in-diy-speakers.html?m=1
You can also find the several reviews and variations on this design on several forums...including good comments from really good speaker designers, and also for the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4” woofer that is used on this 2 way speaker known by the bass it can produce.
The reasons to choose this design where easy:
*A small 2 way with flat response, details and clarity. There is plenty of images with the frequency response and such.
*Components where cheap…i´m in south america so shipping cost are also take in account.
*Few components crossover… i read/think too much about the changes that every electrical component/equipment adds to the sound, this is a series crossover, only 4 parts.
*Small size and Area to be fulfilled… Just a small living room.
*Good reviews for design and components… from designers on other forums and the drivers itself on youtube.
*They are been made as a gift for my Dad (73)…so he doesn't need to get a Beryllium tweeter either way (Even when he deserve it..i cannot afford it)
*Also for my to compare it with a full range MarkAudio speaker that i build on planet10 mFonken enclosure that i REALLY like as was my first diy speaker and i'm still impress on how a good FR driver with no crossover whatsoever sounds that good.
DRIVERS:
Woofer Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4”
Tweeter Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8”
CROSSOVER:
3 OHM 10W RESISTOR
0.20mH 18 AWG COIL
8.0uF CAPACITOR
1.0uF CAPACITOR
ENCLOSURE
I do changes in the cabinet outside dimensions, trying to apply the theory on Direct Radiator Loudspeaker Enclosures by Olson Harry.. also to impress my Dad on what carpentry with cnc can do now days.. the internal dimension where the same that other builder used on Mr Duane design and call it the ¨Deluxe version¨ as he made it a litter bigger and change the crossover components to polypropylene versions on the capacitors. The original enclosure is 8” tall, 6”wide, and 8.5” deep.
The enclosure material is 18mm pine plywood, lining the internal walls with recycled denim, the material used on car trunks/carpets.
I think i don't have anything more to cover so here some pictures of the build process=
FLAT PACK..To call it in that way
The letters on the top are my dad´s name initial..in case you are wondering
Baffle -- recess cut for driver to be flush mount and release on back to let it flow
Binding post cut manually done, as the cnc guy ¨forgot¨to do it...not finished in this photo
Glued together - I'm missing a photo with the internal material--next time i post
Crossover assembly - testing - finished
and the Ufoken enclosure with Markaudio CHR-70.3 that i did as my first diy speaker that i want to compare against this 2way design
I will post more picture as i progress with the process.. hope this week is going to be complete already.
And by the way English is not my native/first lenguage in case it wasn't noticed
Last edited by a moderator:
Sealing the internal cornes
After receiving an advice from a good designer …Wolf... I applied about 2 coats of sealant to the internal walls to prevent any possibility of air leaks between each layer of wood. Something that i didnt think before.
A hand/rough sanding after filling in the imperfections.
The insulation material is already glued in.
After receiving an advice from a good designer …Wolf... I applied about 2 coats of sealant to the internal walls to prevent any possibility of air leaks between each layer of wood. Something that i didnt think before.
A hand/rough sanding after filling in the imperfections.
The insulation material is already glued in.
Last edited by a moderator:
Then proceed with the installation of the crossovers inside the box
Then sealing of the wood after sanding with 80, 240 and 320 grit
And the final coat of mineral oil.
Then sealing of the wood after sanding with 80, 240 and 320 grit
And the final coat of mineral oil.
Last edited by a moderator:
