I bought a Supercube II a while back for $75 from shop goodwill and it initially powered on but had no sound. Upon opening 'er up, I did a quick inspection (this thing is jam packed!) And it appears a few parts for a bit hot, to say the least.
Can anyone tell me what these two obvious visually affected parts & values are I have in the two pictures marked with arrows? I know the one is a small resistor but I'm really only knowledgeable about caps in amps/speakers and larger speaker resistors. I'd like to be able to get these parts ordered and swap them out in the sub. I do know how to solder and have swapped out caps before, but I have very little knowledge of these. All I can say is this definitely is much more complex looking than than my main subs plate amp as well as the guts of my B&K ST-140, which is quite a simple MOSFET circuit with a relatively short signal path (how I prefer it) 😂
Supposedly these are really great compact subs and the little bastard has a 1200W amplifier I believe is what it claims, and I'm not doubting it given what's inside. Much more hear than what's just on a simple plate amp!
I'm not sure exactly what would've caused this, but it's right by the input stage so I'm confused as to why the fuses aren't blown (yes I did check). If anyone has any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Can anyone tell me what these two obvious visually affected parts & values are I have in the two pictures marked with arrows? I know the one is a small resistor but I'm really only knowledgeable about caps in amps/speakers and larger speaker resistors. I'd like to be able to get these parts ordered and swap them out in the sub. I do know how to solder and have swapped out caps before, but I have very little knowledge of these. All I can say is this definitely is much more complex looking than than my main subs plate amp as well as the guts of my B&K ST-140, which is quite a simple MOSFET circuit with a relatively short signal path (how I prefer it) 😂
Supposedly these are really great compact subs and the little bastard has a 1200W amplifier I believe is what it claims, and I'm not doubting it given what's inside. Much more hear than what's just on a simple plate amp!
I'm not sure exactly what would've caused this, but it's right by the input stage so I'm confused as to why the fuses aren't blown (yes I did check). If anyone has any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Attachments
The red arrow looks to be pointing to the main low voltage power transformer. T15 on page 8 of the second set of schematics. The blue arrow is one of the two resistors that is in place to select 120V input. If it was 240V that resistor and the one next to it would be missing and the empty spot next to them marked R22 would have a resistor instead. They look like resistors, and are label 0.0 in the schematic, but they seem to be just jumpers.
Bottom line is the low voltage fundamental PS looks fried.
Generally speaking properly rated power transformers don't catch fire on their own, so it wouldn't be much of a surprise if something else down stream failed first and caused an over-current situation in the PS. Shorted diode in the bridge rectifier, or power regulator or main amp transistor or shorted electrolytic caps would be common culprits. A lot to choose from...
Prior owner may have replaced the fuse if it is in fact good, perhaps? Shame on DT if they protected the fuse with a transformer; or under-rated the transformer to save pennies. Or, more likely if naught but a bit of curiosity at this point, but check to see if the fuse is the proper rating - prior owner could have put in a bigger one if the correct one kept blowing. Hmmm... or could have been a lightening strike on the power lines. Happened to my Dad years ago...
Bottom line is the low voltage fundamental PS looks fried.
Generally speaking properly rated power transformers don't catch fire on their own, so it wouldn't be much of a surprise if something else down stream failed first and caused an over-current situation in the PS. Shorted diode in the bridge rectifier, or power regulator or main amp transistor or shorted electrolytic caps would be common culprits. A lot to choose from...
Prior owner may have replaced the fuse if it is in fact good, perhaps? Shame on DT if they protected the fuse with a transformer; or under-rated the transformer to save pennies. Or, more likely if naught but a bit of curiosity at this point, but check to see if the fuse is the proper rating - prior owner could have put in a bigger one if the correct one kept blowing. Hmmm... or could have been a lightening strike on the power lines. Happened to my Dad years ago...