Thought I’d turn to the pros to help with a speaker problem I’m having.
My speakers have developed an issue that kinda sucks. Up to this point I’ve not had any issues, but they have suddenly developed some sort of resonance centered at 100hz. The way the speakers are constructed, there is a false baffle with a slight horn flare. I’ve tried isolating the baffle and it’s still there. If I damp the rubber surround with my finger I can damp the vibration, so I’m pretty sure it’s in the driver (which I believe are Peerless). My first instinct was a loose screw in the driver mount. Unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be any way paat the baffle without major surgery. The only other possible thing is one of the binding posts got loose so I did the pull and twist move to resecure it (nut is inaccessible), possible twisting the internal wiring (though I tried not too). The resonance did start appearing (at least at this level) after the fiddling with the binding post. Side note, I also tested with the port plugged, no difference. Anyone have anything similar happen? Suggestions for diagnosing before resorting to desperate surgery? Speakers are Be One Audio The Three. Small company based in Thailand now defunct with no known way to contact. Any ideas appreciated.
I have a video of the resonance but can’t upload here. Can put online somewhere if it would help.
My speakers have developed an issue that kinda sucks. Up to this point I’ve not had any issues, but they have suddenly developed some sort of resonance centered at 100hz. The way the speakers are constructed, there is a false baffle with a slight horn flare. I’ve tried isolating the baffle and it’s still there. If I damp the rubber surround with my finger I can damp the vibration, so I’m pretty sure it’s in the driver (which I believe are Peerless). My first instinct was a loose screw in the driver mount. Unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be any way paat the baffle without major surgery. The only other possible thing is one of the binding posts got loose so I did the pull and twist move to resecure it (nut is inaccessible), possible twisting the internal wiring (though I tried not too). The resonance did start appearing (at least at this level) after the fiddling with the binding post. Side note, I also tested with the port plugged, no difference. Anyone have anything similar happen? Suggestions for diagnosing before resorting to desperate surgery? Speakers are Be One Audio The Three. Small company based in Thailand now defunct with no known way to contact. Any ideas appreciated.
I have a video of the resonance but can’t upload here. Can put online somewhere if it would help.
Most modern videos are already highly compressed. Zipping them only "packages" them in the new format but size reduction goes from zero to a few % at best.
Suggest uploading to YT so a direct link can be put here and even seen within a window.
Suggest uploading to YT so a direct link can be put here and even seen within a window.
It does sound a bit like the frame of the speaker driver buzzing agains the baffle. That you can stop the noise by lightly touching the surround tends to confirm this. If there is a point on the surround where just the lightest touch wrks, then that will be near the problem.
Interesting company information here: https://www-hifishuo-com.translate....tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc&_x_tr_sch=http
I think this may be the product page retrieved from the Wayback Machine: https://web.archive.org/web/20090215234054/http://www.beone-audio.com/yscp/zya/20070919/153702.shtml
Edit: just found the current website with new URL: http://ww.beone-audio.cn/
Edit: just found the current website with new URL: http://ww.beone-audio.cn/
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yes, found the website, but I believe it to be unmaintained. I'm going to have to figure out how to get that baffle off without destroying the speakers. Do companies really make speakers that are impossible to maintain / get into?
I would guess the dress panel in from of the baffle is held in place with double-sided tape, and when removed will reveal the fixings for the drivers. Warming the panel will soften the adhesive and then you might be able to slide in a putty knife and gently prise the dress panel off (maybe leave it facing the sun for an hour or so, or use a hair dryer). I know of other manufacturers who make speakers this way. There's always a knack to getting them apart for service; usually it takes brute force and the knack is how to apply that force in a way that doesn't cause cosmetic damage.
Because there is no access to fix it from behind the black dress panel can only be held in place by adhesive, e.g. double sided tape or hot glue. Maybe the manufacturer never intended to speaker to be disassembled, or maybe it takes a lot of force as per my previous post. Removing the base has given you access to prize behind the panel. The risk is that even if the dress panel comes apart with some force, it might break at the weak points around the large driver openings. Is there any movement at all if you try to slide a putty knife in the gap?
The VAF i93 is an expensive speaker where a dress panel is 'permanently' bonded in front of the drivers, but ultimately removing it is the only way to get the drivers out. In about 2000 I wrote the QA procedure for the manufacture of this model to eliminate warranty issues and consequently the need for disassembly.
VAF i93
The VAF i93 is an expensive speaker where a dress panel is 'permanently' bonded in front of the drivers, but ultimately removing it is the only way to get the drivers out. In about 2000 I wrote the QA procedure for the manufacture of this model to eliminate warranty issues and consequently the need for disassembly.
VAF i93
Used to diagnose faults in a loudspeaker that can't easily be disassembled? I searched for a picture of an i93 on the internet; what is in the background is incidental.What's with the MRI machine?
Edit: the picture comes from a tweet by Simon Hackett, who is now owner of the VAF company, but I have no idea where it was taken.
Had not thought about hot glue, but you would need to be very careful of the finish. Maybe slow soak in an oven?
A side of this thread is what I had been contemplating for front panels/grill cloths etc. Some newer ones are held in place with Neo magnets. Every solution I come up with seems to have negatives. Best option is the backs removeable so you can access fasteners or a grill cloth that hides everything so no dress panel is needed. I built some back in the early 80's where my cabinet finish was a "sock". No fancy woodwork finish needed. Tan grill cloth front and printed cotton sides. I was contemplating a comercial line, but buyers were still expecting walnut boxes back then. Piano black had not come into fashion.
A side of this thread is what I had been contemplating for front panels/grill cloths etc. Some newer ones are held in place with Neo magnets. Every solution I come up with seems to have negatives. Best option is the backs removeable so you can access fasteners or a grill cloth that hides everything so no dress panel is needed. I built some back in the early 80's where my cabinet finish was a "sock". No fancy woodwork finish needed. Tan grill cloth front and printed cotton sides. I was contemplating a comercial line, but buyers were still expecting walnut boxes back then. Piano black had not come into fashion.
So, I’ve started the prying process, and I can see that there is a screw holding the baffle in place and what looks like some pins near the driver. I think it will be possible to strip the screw out of the mdf and the glue it back in place after hopefully fixing the main issue. Inside it looks like an mdf cabinet that was given a cosmetic facelift starting with the baffle and then the aluminum and rear filler. Still dumbfounded that a speaker would be bully with no ability to repair. Nothing to lose as it’s not serviceable, not even a plate by the binding posts.
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