I've updated my blog and I was curious if anybody was using these DIN Rail Pass-Through Terminal Blocks to quickly build crossovers. I've had great success, no soldering, looks neat, and quickly change out components.
Joseph Crowe's DIY Speaker Building Blog: Modular Crossover
Joseph Crowe's DIY Speaker Building Blog: Modular Crossover
How are the component leads held in place by the DIN Rail Terminal Block? Soldering has the advantage of making the junction permanent. It would appear that your DIN Block might be good for prototyping a network, although it looks like what is connected to what is not obvious using the DIN block. In prototyping, it's helpful to be able to look at the wiring and immediately know if everything has been connected correctly.
In the past I've used barrier terminal blocks and/ or European style terminals to prototype a crossover network. Both of these connect a component lead or wire to the terminal with a machine screw.
By the way, DIN is an acronym for ....?
Regards,
cT
In the past I've used barrier terminal blocks and/ or European style terminals to prototype a crossover network. Both of these connect a component lead or wire to the terminal with a machine screw.
By the way, DIN is an acronym for ....?
Regards,
cT
DIN is a German technical standard, I believe.
These terminal blocks also have screws. They come in multiple versions, actually, some of which are tool-free, but mostly they use screws. They are ubiquitous in industrial electrical enclosures.
And oh my God, I wish I had thought of this before. This may very well be the best way to prototype crossovers, or even build them permanently.
If theres no steel in the signal path I think it's a brilliant idea. 🙂 theres some in our electronics classroom right now...I think I'll go give them a better lookover. 🙂
Welcome to the 20th century! 😉 Using terminal strips was a common way to prototype before the advent of the 'breadboard' box in the '60s.
Some of us DIYers [still] use them once the design is done, though with still a box full of '60s era telephone relay cabinet terminal strips, I haven't kept up with the times.
If buying today though, I'd want a similar connector, so how do its DIN ratings compare or are they also UL/CSA listed for industrial control and signal relay apps?
GM
The technical data can be found here.
https://www.phoenixcontact.com/onli...brary=caen&pcck=P-08-07-17-01-01&tab=1#Bridge
Cheers
XCFR2.E60425 - Terminal Blocks - Component
Rated for some industrial control, but no HF signal relaying, so fine for prototyping XOs within its wire size limitations, though long term will theoretically require using a conductive lubricant [AKA 'grease'] to ensure vanishingly low throughput loss same as RCA, etc., connectors.
GM
Rated for some industrial control, but no HF signal relaying, so fine for prototyping XOs within its wire size limitations, though long term will theoretically require using a conductive lubricant [AKA 'grease'] to ensure vanishingly low throughput loss same as RCA, etc., connectors.
GM
I've had the pleasure of not perfectly aligning a lead and screwing it down only to have another lead (stripped to far) short it/burn out another ckt using these on PLC's. They're good enough for prototyping, but a little too flimsy and certainly not rated for higher frequencies. Good for relay logic type applications that look clean. Now they may be old school, but BUSS strips work quite well. Tis hard to beat a gas tight electrical connection IMHO
My company (former company as of last week) uses DIN rail terminal blocks like that for lots of connections. Connections are secure and easy to trace. Also easy to jumper terminals together.
Certainly a nice way to go for prototyping. You will still need to spread your inductors around and align them, but for Rs and Cs and Ins and Outs this should work nicely.
David S.
Certainly a nice way to go for prototyping. You will still need to spread your inductors around and align them, but for Rs and Cs and Ins and Outs this should work nicely.
David S.
When you say not rated for high frequencies what frequencies are we talking about and is this specifically stated in the technical data somewhere?
Also, when you say flimsy is this after you've installed the end blocks to sandwich the stack? Seems quite solid to me.
I can see 100kHz being possible, would not trust above that.
Most of the issues was to large gauge wire being used (but spot on spec wise) snapping the base, wires not being stripped properly eg there is no need for 1"+ being stripped causing shorts. Some of these genius electricians need real training, not just a screw driver.
Now if you want a clean cabinet, bam these are nice.
454, yes! 😉
Most of the issues was to large gauge wire being used (but spot on spec wise) snapping the base, wires not being stripped properly eg there is no need for 1"+ being stripped causing shorts. Some of these genius electricians need real training, not just a screw driver.
Now if you want a clean cabinet, bam these are nice.
454, yes! 😉
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