Hi
I need four similar small bookshelf speakers for my kitchen project.
I already have some spare Monitor Audio bronze BX1s and I was thinking about picking up a second similar pair to match them.
The system will include a small 8 inch diy sub.
I have some woodworking skills and tools (but practically zero electronics knowledge for non digital crossovers etc, and was considering making some rounded back MDF full range speakers with something like the Mark Alpair 10p drivers, one person can.
My question is, will the sound be plainly better than Monitor Audio bronze, silver, gold, or whatever speakers of similar size?
I need four similar small bookshelf speakers for my kitchen project.
I already have some spare Monitor Audio bronze BX1s and I was thinking about picking up a second similar pair to match them.
The system will include a small 8 inch diy sub.
I have some woodworking skills and tools (but practically zero electronics knowledge for non digital crossovers etc, and was considering making some rounded back MDF full range speakers with something like the Mark Alpair 10p drivers, one person can.
My question is, will the sound be plainly better than Monitor Audio bronze, silver, gold, or whatever speakers of similar size?
No idea, but if you're used to a 2-way speaker with tweeters, you may like the Mark Audio A10.3 better than the A10p.My question is, will the sound be plainly better than Monitor Audio bronze, silver, gold, or whatever speakers of similar size?
BTW, how big is the kitchen?
jeff
Thanks. Does the a10.3 have a better high end then, or how does it differ?
The kitchen is part of an open plan kitchen diner, around 9.5m x 3.5m with approx 2.5m ceiling.
With my router and my favourite jig bit I can make the rounded speaker fairly easily and glue the pieces together, although it would of course take some time. I was just wondering how much value that sort of thing adds, whether the internal roundedness is a massive sonic improvement or whether it is just cosmetic...?
The kitchen is part of an open plan kitchen diner, around 9.5m x 3.5m with approx 2.5m ceiling.
With my router and my favourite jig bit I can make the rounded speaker fairly easily and glue the pieces together, although it would of course take some time. I was just wondering how much value that sort of thing adds, whether the internal roundedness is a massive sonic improvement or whether it is just cosmetic...?
It would sound more like a 2-way, with a more extended upper treble compared to the A10p, which has a more vintage sound.Does the a10.3 have a better high end then, or how does it differ?
You've kinda lost me. Is this a box design from the MA website?I was just wondering how much value that sort of thing adds, whether the internal roundedness is a massive sonic improvement or whether it is just cosmetic...?
jeff
Really expensive speakers tend to have a rounded rear end. E.g. Monitor Audio platinum range, Focal Sopra, B&W 802 etc.
I've forgotten why they do it, think it's something to do with internal right angles being sonically unhelpful for some reason. But I wonder how much is just aesthetics and how much is genuinely an improvement but an expensive one to produce for mass market...if it's a big improvement that would encourage me to build my own. I'd probably go for sealed as they would be paired with a sub and want to make integration as easy as possible.
I've forgotten why they do it, think it's something to do with internal right angles being sonically unhelpful for some reason. But I wonder how much is just aesthetics and how much is genuinely an improvement but an expensive one to produce for mass market...if it's a big improvement that would encourage me to build my own. I'd probably go for sealed as they would be paired with a sub and want to make integration as easy as possible.
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Not much of an answer for you, but possibly a valid question to ask....I can certainly see the crossovers being simpler, but how do full range drivers avoid the "beaming" effect at higher frequencies?
Not only would they be simpler, they'd be non existent. I was planning a single driver, sealed design. I don't know anything about the beaming effect sorry.
Yes kind of like that shape but different build plan. It would be the simplest build for me actually, well the simplest nice looking build anyway. I would simply make a template, make duplicates, then glue them all together like a sandwich, then add a top and bottom.You mean curved cabinet sides like this? Personally I wouldn't bother with your first build. Just pick a box design from the MA site, or from Dave at Planet10.
jeff
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You'll want to go with a vented design for the A10.3 if you expect decent bass.I was planning a single driver, sealed design.
jeff
You mean like Translam construction. Kinda a waste of material IMHO, especially if it's just a simple sealed box.I would simply make a template, make duplicates, then glue them all together like a sandwich, then add a top and bottom.
That looks like it will work for the A10.3. WinISD predicts -3db at ~90Hz in a 7 litre box, Q .7 ish.I only need them to extend to 90hz at -3dB ish
jeff
A10.3 and A10p are getting hard to get.
Few Markaudios currently availabke will go low enuff to meet a single woofer. I’d have to chack my sims to see. I did se A10.2 for exactly that purpose.
dave
Few Markaudios currently availabke will go low enuff to meet a single woofer. I’d have to chack my sims to see. I did se A10.2 for exactly that purpose.
dave
Translam construction
A HUGE waste. Using the materialin the direcction it was not intended means much more. And much more waste. If you do the “math" on the curved sides it provides a small benefit (maybe) inside but more outside but the transition from the flat baffle has to fit into the design. And given the size of the wavelengths involved there is no difference between a polygonal approximation.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/nicksyman-oak-ufonkenset-co-jpg.293376/[img]
Also, curving the edges means a bigger footprint… you might be better doing a wall mounted design that “merges” into the wall behind.
And a pet peeve, MDF is not at all a great speaker building material, its only advantage, often cheap.
dave
That's why I would go with a vented box, but that's just me. 🙂Few Markaudios currently availabke will go low enuff to meet a single woofer.
jeff
For your first question, speakers with MA 10M or P drivers will be better than Monitor Audio BX1 and wont be close to Gold speakers of around same box size, than again it will play just fine on budget amplifier which I cant say for Monitor Audio Gold any model
I suppose I could go vented, I just figured ports were not a good idea where a sub is present.I typically high pass my speakers to avoid the ported region.
I guess what I want to know is, is it worth it from a purely sound quality perspective? I mean, if I spend ~£400 on 4x Mark Audio 10.3 drivers, assuming I can get hold of some or can wait, are they going to sound like KEF ls50s or better or worse? Are they potentially going to sound substantially better than a typical £400 bookshelf speaker pair, or like an £800 pair...or what? Any subjective experiences and comparisons would be very welcome.
I guess what I want to know is, is it worth it from a purely sound quality perspective? I mean, if I spend ~£400 on 4x Mark Audio 10.3 drivers, assuming I can get hold of some or can wait, are they going to sound like KEF ls50s or better or worse? Are they potentially going to sound substantially better than a typical £400 bookshelf speaker pair, or like an £800 pair...or what? Any subjective experiences and comparisons would be very welcome.
I would build a single pair first, and then decide if you want to go further. Drivers are still available at https://kjfaudio.com/product-category/diy-audio/audio-components/drivers/page/3/I mean, if I spend ~£400 on 4x Mark Audio 10.3 drivers, assuming I can get hold of some or can wait,
jeff
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