Hi all and happy Christmas,
I've just finished two 80 cm tall speaker stands made from fir wood, regarding the vertical supports, and multilayer plywood for the bases. I wondered wich kind of dye/varnish were suitable for both materials. Asking to a friend who is carpenter he told me that I should use two different kinds of treatment: mordant or water-based color followed by gloss or semi-gloss transparent varnish for the fir, and a white primer and specific coloured paint for plywood. My idea is to have a walnut color, a little glossy, for the vertical elements and a glossy/matte black color for the basis. Anyone experienced with that? Thanks in advance
I've just finished two 80 cm tall speaker stands made from fir wood, regarding the vertical supports, and multilayer plywood for the bases. I wondered wich kind of dye/varnish were suitable for both materials. Asking to a friend who is carpenter he told me that I should use two different kinds of treatment: mordant or water-based color followed by gloss or semi-gloss transparent varnish for the fir, and a white primer and specific coloured paint for plywood. My idea is to have a walnut color, a little glossy, for the vertical elements and a glossy/matte black color for the basis. Anyone experienced with that? Thanks in advance
The only way to really know is to buy several different types of finishes and test them on some scrap pieces from the build. Otherwise, you are just guessing regardless of any answers that you may get here.
As a woodworker, the correct answer is to test on your scraps. What your friend who is a carpenter, not a cabinet maker, did not talk about is the various fillers and sealers and how they react on different woods. Fir can be very blotchy. Dyes are not used a lot, but you have a choice between water based and alkaloid based stains. Wiped or sprayed. Each has different results. I tend to prefer oil based stains and tinted poly varnish to get the even colors but the cure time can be long.
There are some very good woodworking forums that can be of far more help than an audio forum. I might suggest Lumberjocks.
FWIW, I have used VTH semi-gloss black on several projects and like the result. It is over pre-cat primer which you don't want to fool with. I do not know your construction, but if there are glue joints, the kind of glue can matter if the line will soak in over the years and be visible. This is why I use powered resin glue for my MDF cabinets. PVA shrinks.
There are some very good woodworking forums that can be of far more help than an audio forum. I might suggest Lumberjocks.
FWIW, I have used VTH semi-gloss black on several projects and like the result. It is over pre-cat primer which you don't want to fool with. I do not know your construction, but if there are glue joints, the kind of glue can matter if the line will soak in over the years and be visible. This is why I use powered resin glue for my MDF cabinets. PVA shrinks.
Yes, I forgot to say that I make some trial on a piece with two differents paints, one is acrylic paint from a fine arts shop, also used for wood according to the seller. The other is a "wax effect" mordant light walnut colored. The results are differents but in both, the grain of the wood is shown. I'm a little doubtful on which is my choice. If I can use just only one technique it would be better, but I have two differents woods: plywood and fir. I only uesd screws and spacers, as soon as possible if you like I attach a photo.
At this point as you say, Tvrgeek, a good option could be covering entirely the wood surface...making all black (VTH semi-gloss black) and would match then with the dye of my speakers.
PS: another one suggested me also the black high heat spray paint...
At this point as you say, Tvrgeek, a good option could be covering entirely the wood surface...making all black (VTH semi-gloss black) and would match then with the dye of my speakers.
PS: another one suggested me also the black high heat spray paint...
VTH is what I have been using. Stumbled on it when restoring a Eames style chair. Gives a nicer finish than other rattle cans. Still need a proper primer you can fill sand, prime, lather prince repeat. Automotive "high build primer" is a good choice over a sealer. Cheap rattle can.
Fir is an attractive close-grained wood. It is difficult to get good results with stains and dyes. Personally, I would sand the fir columns with 100 grit, 150 grit, and 180 (or 220) grit... Then put a clear gloss polyurethane finish. 3 coats, then sand with 220, put another coat, sand with 320, put on the final coat... then rub it down to a satin finish with either super-fine steel wool or 600 grit paper. The light colored wood will make a nice contrast to a darker base and top plate, and the darker speaker.
Thank you for your suggestion hifijim. So what you say I should opt for several successive passes of sandpaper for each painting operation. It seems a bit articulate for a noob like me in this ambit but from how you described it the final work should be successful.
I keep your advice in mind, directing me to the choice of products to use. Thanks.
I keep your advice in mind, directing me to the choice of products to use. Thanks.
Finished the speakers stands some days ago...The painting involved several operations, I hope correct overall (I partially followed the instructions by my friend carpenter), but I am quite satisfied with the result.
First, I sanded the raw wood with 180 sandpaper, being the fir rather tender. I applied a coat of synthetic impregnating agent on the columns while I treated the basis (as they're multilayer plywood) with a coat of nitro filler, not diluited.
After, I sanded again all with 220 s.p. and applied everywhere a second coat of the agent. The varnish is clear walnut.
The time to dry the handwork was a little long, then used 280 sandpaper and repeated with the third and last coat of agent.
For the finishing I wanted to use shellac, which I prepared by myself (40g shellac flakes dissolved in 200ml EtOH 99%). Before applying the solution I sanded with 320 then used shellac pad. After half a day I repeated the process twice, last time with the solution diluited in EtOH 2:1.
First, I sanded the raw wood with 180 sandpaper, being the fir rather tender. I applied a coat of synthetic impregnating agent on the columns while I treated the basis (as they're multilayer plywood) with a coat of nitro filler, not diluited.
After, I sanded again all with 220 s.p. and applied everywhere a second coat of the agent. The varnish is clear walnut.
The time to dry the handwork was a little long, then used 280 sandpaper and repeated with the third and last coat of agent.
For the finishing I wanted to use shellac, which I prepared by myself (40g shellac flakes dissolved in 200ml EtOH 99%). Before applying the solution I sanded with 320 then used shellac pad. After half a day I repeated the process twice, last time with the solution diluited in EtOH 2:1.
Attachments
I forgot, I painted the edges of both bases for each stand with High Heat Spray Paint (the one that is also good for ovens), at the suggestion of my friend. Then I finally coated them with transparent finishing varnish "sopraffina" (monocomponent alkyd enamel).
Nobody commented my work, maybe it wasn't appreciated.. 🤔 Just consider this is my first attempt with wood artcrafts 😍
My advice to you is to give a damn what other people think of you or your projects, make every project so it pleases you and no other
Sure, I like my stands in the overall...
I only meant, if someone more "professional" than me taking a look to them in case would give his technical opinion (and useful for possible future works).
I also know I'd better maybe choose a woodcraft forum 😉
80 cm, 31.5", seems a bit too high even for small bookshelf speakers. Puts the tweeter well above your ear level if you are listening while sitting down. Might not matter much though if are listening while walking around.
I used to have speaker stands, they were industrial re-cycled solid 4" tubular steel stands, 5ft high with 1" thick 1 ft diameter round plates top and bottom. Ideal for the job.
But they weren't "vacuum cleaner friendly," so Ieventually scrapped them and installed wall brackets either side of the 7ft wall unit that houses my hi-fi gear. I've also an aversion to visible cables. I hide them in white trunking on our white skirting boards.
But they weren't "vacuum cleaner friendly," so Ieventually scrapped them and installed wall brackets either side of the 7ft wall unit that houses my hi-fi gear. I've also an aversion to visible cables. I hide them in white trunking on our white skirting boards.
Indeed, my experienced "audiophile" friend suggested these measures to me...
The space is not much and I listen from a "Savonarola" chair at about 2.5m from the speakers, which are themselves 2.5m apart (equilateral configuration).
Also, they are positioned approx. 40cm from the back wall, between a bookcase and the side wall.
I know a metal or column pedestal would be the best choice, but the stands are stable and I have put 16 felt pads under the bottom base for each.
Generally accepted rule of thumb is that the center of the tweeter should be about the same height as your ear when sitting down. Seems like in this case it might be quite a bit higher. You might want to check.