Do Binding Posts come with an M7 Metric screw at the other end exist?
Hi All.
The Technics Speakers I'm tidying up have an issue with the speaker cable terminals.
Instead of normal binding posts they feature Metric M7 male threaded posts.
You split the sheathed end of the speaker cable and split the multi strands into two separated sections. These are then wrapped wrapped around each side of the Speaker binding posts and then clamped down with plastic nuts.
This process is fiddly and places considerable stress on the plastic nuts as they aren't as strong as the male metal thread they tighten up against.
I'm thinking to source Binding Posts which have a female Metric M7 at one end and normal Female Banana type Binding Post at the other.
This way these can simply be screwed on and forgotton.
Is there such a device?
Cheers
Cliff
Hi All.
The Technics Speakers I'm tidying up have an issue with the speaker cable terminals.
Instead of normal binding posts they feature Metric M7 male threaded posts.
You split the sheathed end of the speaker cable and split the multi strands into two separated sections. These are then wrapped wrapped around each side of the Speaker binding posts and then clamped down with plastic nuts.
This process is fiddly and places considerable stress on the plastic nuts as they aren't as strong as the male metal thread they tighten up against.
I'm thinking to source Binding Posts which have a female Metric M7 at one end and normal Female Banana type Binding Post at the other.
This way these can simply be screwed on and forgotton.
Is there such a device?
Cheers
Cliff
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I would think it is highly unlikely, but I'm prepared to be proved wrong!Is there such a device?

For those not following Cliff's restorations, it may be helpful to tell you that the speaker in question is the Technics SB E100.
As well as show you what the 'system input' binding posts look like (good enough for a permanent installation in my opinion):
As well as show you what the 'system input' binding posts look like (good enough for a permanent installation in my opinion):

M7 is fairly unsual, people usually skip M6 to M8.
Note there is both M7/1 (coarse) and M7/0.75 (fine) out there too to worry about.
One idea - try some M7 coupling/connector nuts? These are normally used to join two bits of studding (aka all-thread) together so are long enough to get a hold of as a make-shift terminal post, albeit not isolated - some heat-shrink over the top might be a useful precaution against accidental shorting.
Note there is both M7/1 (coarse) and M7/0.75 (fine) out there too to worry about.
One idea - try some M7 coupling/connector nuts? These are normally used to join two bits of studding (aka all-thread) together so are long enough to get a hold of as a make-shift terminal post, albeit not isolated - some heat-shrink over the top might be a useful precaution against accidental shorting.
If You have a press drill it is easy to build some out of solid brass or aluminum tube.
Only complicated thing to do is the knurled surface, but the tube can also be squared to have better grip. What about a wing nut ?
Only complicated thing to do is the knurled surface, but the tube can also be squared to have better grip. What about a wing nut ?
why not just put spades on the cable ends ?
The base of the male posts are surrounded by raised plastic forming a guide into which bared wire is laid.
Any spades would sit on this plastic and be therefore insulated.
Spades are a good idea if I can source ones whose outer sections are narrower than the plastic surround.
Then the other problem is that the section of the spade which crimps around the wire would be too wide to fit in the cut out of the raised plastic surround. Fitting would mean cutting the plastic, but the aim is to keep these speakers fully standard.
cheers
Cliff
If You have a press drill it is easy to build some out of solid brass or aluminum tube.
Only complicated thing to do is the knurled surface, but the tube can also be squared to have better grip. What about a wing nut ?
Unfortunately no drill press.

M7 is fairly unsual, people usually skip M6 to M8.
Note there is both M7/1 (coarse) and M7/0.75 (fine) out there too to worry about.
One idea - try some M7 coupling/connector nuts? These are normally used to join two bits of studding (aka all-thread) together so are long enough to get a hold of as a make-shift terminal post, albeit not isolated - some heat-shrink over the top might be a useful precaution against accidental shorting.
Went to an automotive retailer who has a rack of bagged metric brass nuts.
Sadly they skip from M6 to M8.
It seems M7 is becoming a by gone size to use these days.
Also, anything not knurled (round exterior) won't fit over the plastic surround at the bottom of the male binding studs.
For those not following Cliff's restorations, it may be helpful to tell you that the speaker in question is the Technics SB E100.
As well as show you what the 'system input' binding posts look like (good enough for a permanent installation in my opinion):
Looks like a control panel on one of the earlier Star Trek star ships. 🙂
well that sucks.
sounds like the designers fubared that part of the design.
These were their flagships at the time.
They are quite complex in both design and electronics.
Looks like they got lost in the detail on elements like the binding posts.
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