Hi everyone:
I'm building an open baffle system, and the construction is mostly done on the MTM section. Let's assume I have next to zero painting/finishing skills. I am looking for a black, durable finish. It feels like everyone immediately recommends Duratex. I like the idea of the durability, but I have a few questions.
First, the photos I see online make Duratex look a little glossy. How glossy is it in real life?
Next, is there a way to reduce the textured finish and any glossiness to an absolute minimum? Someone told me I could spray paint over it, but that seems like a risky idea.
Are there other options that are approximately as durable? What about the European Warnex product?
I'm building an open baffle system, and the construction is mostly done on the MTM section. Let's assume I have next to zero painting/finishing skills. I am looking for a black, durable finish. It feels like everyone immediately recommends Duratex. I like the idea of the durability, but I have a few questions.
First, the photos I see online make Duratex look a little glossy. How glossy is it in real life?
Next, is there a way to reduce the textured finish and any glossiness to an absolute minimum? Someone told me I could spray paint over it, but that seems like a risky idea.
Are there other options that are approximately as durable? What about the European Warnex product?
It's a mat-gloss when evenly sprayed, but can be somewhat glossy if thickly and/or unevenly sprayed on, but best to use the wood version for 'Roadie' cabs, etc., so is pro touring speakers too glossy for you? FWIW I used Wrinkle Finish way back when for kid's speakers, motor valve covers, some foreign car dashes, etc., no clue about Warnex.
Thanks. I'm not clear from your reply what you mean. How many black Duratex coatings are there? I believe they're all described as suited for wood.
And the link you posted shows 2 products. Were you recommending the "ExoHyde Pro Grade Textured Protective Speaker Cabinet Coating Gallon - Black" on that page?
And the link you posted shows 2 products. Were you recommending the "ExoHyde Pro Grade Textured Protective Speaker Cabinet Coating Gallon - Black" on that page?
Last edited:
I assume just one IME and from just a bit of research after finding some specifically for wood, again assumed it was different than what I used to spray a long gone truck, Chevy El Camino.
Neither per se, though having some experience spraying Duratex am comfortable recommending the brand, but I imagine a blend designed for rollers better suits the casual DIYer.
Neither per se, though having some experience spraying Duratex am comfortable recommending the brand, but I imagine a blend designed for rollers better suits the casual DIYer.
Not sure where we're having a 'failure to communicate', so will just say that I would buy this for doing any wood projects.
Panels can just be painted flat black for coverage.
Then for durable finished texture look coating you just use everyday rubberized undercoat.
To get a fine even finish much smoother than roll on bed liner. The glorified Duratex product.
You just spray the rubberized undercoat with a sprayer or like many use it in a spray can.
You mist the surface evenly from a distance to get the light texture.
Then for durable finished texture look coating you just use everyday rubberized undercoat.
To get a fine even finish much smoother than roll on bed liner. The glorified Duratex product.
You just spray the rubberized undercoat with a sprayer or like many use it in a spray can.
You mist the surface evenly from a distance to get the light texture.
Between a matte and satin finish, closer to matte. This depends on the texture, if you buy the recommended roller it will appear more matte, because of the rediculous texture. If you use a low nap roller, you can approach somewhat of a smoother texture closer to a basketball than stucco, and it will have just a bit more sheen.
FYI, I would not use the recommeded roller cover, the rough texture does not clean well, it holds dust and dirt. For domestic use, stick to a low nap roller such as this one, which you should be able to find locally.
https://www.kmstools.com/simms-time...cLcfHxrDSgkqdoza3ebyKdEI9PpppmBBgvQxbGjK0FMGZ
It's a 4 inch wide roller, but as long as you aren't trying to coat all sides of a box at once, you can do a large cabinet a panel or two at a time. To save on material, just dip the roller cover and frame in the bucket. Keep a large ziploc bag close to cover the roller after you are done a coat or panel. Close the pail up promptly. In ideal ( warm ) temperature and ( low ) humidity with the linked roller cover, you can put a coat on each panel every 10-15 minutes.
Any small issues that pop up can be dealt with by scuffing it back slightly to flat once dry ( 10-15 minutes ) with a piece of P180 or P220 sandpaper. Wipe the powdered sanding dust up with a damp paper towel, and roll another coat.
Don't rush to assemble, and if you can raise the temperature locally, it will cure quicker. Dry and cure are two totally different things. You don't want the drivers stuck into the cabinet, or the cabinet stuck to something else.
Wow, you folks have given me a lot to think about. I'm still deciding....
Thanks for the advice about the Speaker paint. I called Acry Tech and they are going to send me some sample pieces (on cardboard, I think) of what the speaker paint looks like in real life.
When you wrote:
"Panels can just be painted flat black for coverage.
Then for durable finished texture look coating you just use everyday rubberized undercoat."
I don't know any painting/finishing lingo.
Are you saying just use any old paint for the first coat, and then use that Rustoleum as the second coat?
And the rubberized undercoat paint, it won't have the same durability as Duratex, will it?
Again, I know next to zero about this stuff, so talk to me like I'm five.
Thanks for the advice about the Speaker paint. I called Acry Tech and they are going to send me some sample pieces (on cardboard, I think) of what the speaker paint looks like in real life.
When you wrote:
"Panels can just be painted flat black for coverage.
Then for durable finished texture look coating you just use everyday rubberized undercoat."
I don't know any painting/finishing lingo.
Are you saying just use any old paint for the first coat, and then use that Rustoleum as the second coat?
And the rubberized undercoat paint, it won't have the same durability as Duratex, will it?
Again, I know next to zero about this stuff, so talk to me like I'm five.
Yes just a smooth final finish paint job with flat black.
Otherwise normal paint job.
Then a quick spray with undercoat at a distance to get the texture.
Otherwise normal paint job.
Then a quick spray with undercoat at a distance to get the texture.
Are you using these for home use, or are you trying to build something that you are going to move constantly?
If you want something that will withstand many scuffs, nothing will outlast a two-component polyurea coating like Line-X, or equivalent. Of course, that costs real money, requires good preparation, plus sealing the cabinet with a polyurethane 2 component paint for best results prior to Line-X application. If you try and scrimp on the preparation for polyurea coating, you'll get poor results.
By the time you get some samples, it will be past the point of being able to order Duratex in Canuckistan, the risk of freezing in transit rendering it un-usable is approaching quickly.
Would you please clarify what this meant?
What is a "final finish"? Which flat black works well under the VHT Wrinkle Plus you recommended for good adhesion?
I use rust oleum products and familiar with the datasheets.
You can use filler primer or 2X primers for the rubber under coat.
Since they are all alkyd or modified alkyd
" VHT wrinkle plus" is a heat cured paint and I dont use for speakers.
It requires heat for final cure around 93c and to wrinkle fully.
I use rustolem rubber undercoat as shown for a smoother texture.
Last edited:
Black board paint, add black tint if needed.
Used for wood and glass in school black boards, it dries slightly rough, as intended.
Sold in dark green and black colors.
You can vary gloss with thinner quantity and brushing technique.
About same price here as red oxide metal primer.
Used for wood and glass in school black boards, it dries slightly rough, as intended.
Sold in dark green and black colors.
You can vary gloss with thinner quantity and brushing technique.
About same price here as red oxide metal primer.
Whoah, slow down guys. I'm very grateful for all this help, but I'm trying to process it all. I have trouble with that sometimes.
I called VHT and asked them about the VHT Wrinkle product. The VHT rep. said it was about the same scratch/abrasion resistance as other, regular paints. Isn't that a whole lot less durable than Duratex? I need something that has at a least a chance of surviving a minor "OOPS!".
I called VHT and asked them about the VHT Wrinkle product. The VHT rep. said it was about the same scratch/abrasion resistance as other, regular paints. Isn't that a whole lot less durable than Duratex? I need something that has at a least a chance of surviving a minor "OOPS!".
I never saw a damaged board in school, last was in 1982.
Last college courses in 1989, again no issues with blackboards.
I would sugget getting a small quantity, and trying it, the paint and your climate will have a large role in your results.
Last college courses in 1989, again no issues with blackboards.
I would sugget getting a small quantity, and trying it, the paint and your climate will have a large role in your results.
