Full size MAME Arcade cabinet build, that will also double as playing blu-ray movies. Started with intent to repurpose very old auto components/amp, but I need to pivot to using full range, and a much more efficient amplifier/speakers. I do not want to have a powered sub, so will probably need at least a 4-5 inch speaker. Will also likely be powered by a not yet acquired simple 2-channel amp board, like the Dayton KAB-250v4 2 X 50W
Any suggestions on a good full range that would have a decent amount of bass? I have been out of the building game for some years now, and never really tried full range designs before. I will be putting a new baffle panel, so will not need to use existing. I also would not be averse to constructing a sealed enclosure behine the baffle for each driver, if that turns out to be necessary to get proper bass response.
I know the HiVi B4N's could be an option, but haven't any experience with using them full range, without a tweeter.
Any suggestions on a good full range that would have a decent amount of bass? I have been out of the building game for some years now, and never really tried full range designs before. I will be putting a new baffle panel, so will not need to use existing. I also would not be averse to constructing a sealed enclosure behine the baffle for each driver, if that turns out to be necessary to get proper bass response.
I know the HiVi B4N's could be an option, but haven't any experience with using them full range, without a tweeter.
This 5 1/4 is worth a look.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...uminum-Cone-Midbass-Driver-290-216?quantity=1
3 and 4 inch drivers tend to struggle with low frequencies at higher output. If you're only going to play at relatively low levels they may be OK though. Of course the larger the speaker, the more it's going to beam at higher frequencies.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...uminum-Cone-Midbass-Driver-290-216?quantity=1
3 and 4 inch drivers tend to struggle with low frequencies at higher output. If you're only going to play at relatively low levels they may be OK though. Of course the larger the speaker, the more it's going to beam at higher frequencies.
How about using 3" drivers on top, and a sub driver in the base?
You could get a 2.1 class D amp with tone controls easily.
A nice cheap but well behaved 3" driver is the SB10PGC21-4.
More money with drivers like Visaton B80 or Scan 10F/8424.
Then add either a round or racetrack driver for the bass. There's even enough space in there to do a transmission line, and elevated your bass experience! In a TL at the bottom there, you could reach 30-ish Hz.
Again, SBA or Dayton make some nice bass drivers at reasonable prices.
You could get a 2.1 class D amp with tone controls easily.
A nice cheap but well behaved 3" driver is the SB10PGC21-4.
More money with drivers like Visaton B80 or Scan 10F/8424.
Then add either a round or racetrack driver for the bass. There's even enough space in there to do a transmission line, and elevated your bass experience! In a TL at the bottom there, you could reach 30-ish Hz.
Again, SBA or Dayton make some nice bass drivers at reasonable prices.
I would take one pair of these fullranges and add a current driven amplifier. See thread "chip amp to current drive".
Will sound good. Indeed.
Will sound good. Indeed.
So far what you got looks good.
I just wouldn't power a 12 volt amplifier.
To much current.
Just use more conventional amplifier.
Having done endless sound design for casino
game systems. It is near field listening so not
much power is actually needed.
You dont want to use a sub.
But for good bass that was what the industry
wanted. Sub and sometimes sub and transducer
in the seating. And they were not nonsense 5 million
watt subs. 40 to 60 watts for overhead.
Wasnt more than 20 watts.
Pinball games use a 8" woofer in the lower cabinet.
Casino games either 8 or 10 in the seat.
I just wouldn't power a 12 volt amplifier.
To much current.
Just use more conventional amplifier.
Having done endless sound design for casino
game systems. It is near field listening so not
much power is actually needed.
You dont want to use a sub.
But for good bass that was what the industry
wanted. Sub and sometimes sub and transducer
in the seating. And they were not nonsense 5 million
watt subs. 40 to 60 watts for overhead.
Wasnt more than 20 watts.
Pinball games use a 8" woofer in the lower cabinet.
Casino games either 8 or 10 in the seat.
Lots of good recommendations, much appreciated.
I had forgotten about an old project for a small ported sub I made many years ago, using the Tang Band W6-1139S woofer, whose plate amp died, and just put on a shelf and built a bigger sub. I am going to yank out the plate amp, and seal the square hole, and go to the 2.1 Dayton amp board recommended. Should be nice low end support.
And I decided on the SB10PGC21-4, as i found a number of reviews/builds that spoke highly of them.
I had forgotten about an old project for a small ported sub I made many years ago, using the Tang Band W6-1139S woofer, whose plate amp died, and just put on a shelf and built a bigger sub. I am going to yank out the plate amp, and seal the square hole, and go to the 2.1 Dayton amp board recommended. Should be nice low end support.
And I decided on the SB10PGC21-4, as i found a number of reviews/builds that spoke highly of them.