Hi guys! The last few days I've been searching for a linear unregulated power supply PCB to use in my next diy amplifier. The only thing I found is this one: Universal PSU – diyAudio Store but I find it too complicated for a class A/B amp.
The eBay is full of power supply boards but I think they are low quality and unreliable. Can anyone give me the link of a good quality PCB that is suitable for a class ab amp?
The eBay is full of power supply boards but I think they are low quality and unreliable. Can anyone give me the link of a good quality PCB that is suitable for a class ab amp?
I would recommend to look at this design -> CRC Power Supply (Class A amplifier)
Prasi might have some boards left (see posts towards the end of the thread).
Regards,
Oleg
Prasi might have some boards left (see posts towards the end of the thread).
Regards,
Oleg
If you always bear in mind, the definition of a 'good' power supply is;
A power supply that can supply enough current and voltage to produce the result required from the amplifier designer.
Also consider output over/under voltage protection, regulation can cure most issues to iron out and stabilise your power assuming there is enough headroom in the first place. Shunt regulation is a total waste of energy, in my opinion. Series regulation, if required in more efficient in most cases.
Many major manufacturers, in the quest for efficiency, use Class G or H. They use stacked power supply switching. More efficient than Class B.
Class B vs Class G Full Screen Image | Audioholics
Extra large value capacitors are never required in a good design.
A power supply that can supply enough current and voltage to produce the result required from the amplifier designer.
Also consider output over/under voltage protection, regulation can cure most issues to iron out and stabilise your power assuming there is enough headroom in the first place. Shunt regulation is a total waste of energy, in my opinion. Series regulation, if required in more efficient in most cases.
Many major manufacturers, in the quest for efficiency, use Class G or H. They use stacked power supply switching. More efficient than Class B.
Class B vs Class G Full Screen Image | Audioholics
Extra large value capacitors are never required in a good design.
RingNot provides ±28V at 3.5 amps, it's intended for LM3886 based chip amps but perhaps it would suit the design you are contemplating. You can download the PCB CAD files (Gerber format) for free, and send them off to a board fab. Here is the delightful website PCBShopper – A Price Comparison Site for Printed Circuit Boards in action:
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hello guys I might be on the wrong segment and I apologize for that but since this is about power supply I need to know if this really matter the way we connected the primary from a 800VA toroidal transformer that has 2 primary winding so it can be use in a 240V outlet the part number Antek AN-8440 has 4 color primary wire 2 red and 2 black wires so if to be use in 240 then the winding 1 is connected in series with winding 2 but how you can tell which one is the right one 1st and 2nd winding will it matter ? See images the last image what about if we connected as the bottom image it might affected the performance of the transformer ? sorry for the weird question because I'm really curious about this any respond I will reapply appreciate your help .
Best Regards
Juan
Best Regards
Juan
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Hello Mark,
are there any voltage limitations on that design? Can it also be used for a supply voltage up to 63 V (DC) in a Mosfet amp mono block design (toroid transformer about 2x40VAC 250VA)?
Thanks and best regards
Günni
No, RingNot is optimized for two transformers: the Antek AN-2222 and the Antek AS-2222; and it is intended for chip-amp applications which include short circuit protection in the IC.
If you wanted to use a different transformer, and/or a discrete amplifier design (i.e. not a chip-amp), you'd need to modify the circuit design and the PCB layout.
If you wanted to use a different transformer, and/or a discrete amplifier design (i.e. not a chip-amp), you'd need to modify the circuit design and the PCB layout.
sorry that is why I apologize at the beginning yes is for s solid state amplifier BJT NPN and PNP example for the Honey Badger
Yes, it has to be done correctly. If in doubt then use a DBT (dim bulb tester) on the primary winding. Connect the two windings in series and switch on checking that the bulb is not lit and that the expected AC voltages are present on the secondary.
If the bulb lights brightly then reverse the connections to ONE primary winding only and retest.
There's also a little tester called PhaseDots here on diyAudio, which runs on a 9V battery. You connect two of the transformer's windings to it and if they are in phase, a green LED lights up. If they are out of phase, a red LED lights up. It fits on a little 50 x 100mm piece of board. It helps you discover where to put the "Phase Dots" on the schematic diagram of your transformer.
That's it
Hey Mark, that's a neat circuit. Hadn't seen that thread before:
A little tester to determine transformer PhaseDots with no scope or signal generator
Hi Guy's
Thanks for trying to help out.
I tried out the method described below (See image 1) and I don't think that's what I am after.
Yes it tells me which winding are in phase but my question is not exactly that.
So I guess I should try and clear up the problem / question.
I have a Antek transformer (Image 2). I live in Australia 220v - 240v and I would like to know if the way or order that I wire the phases makes a difference to the performance or correct way of wiring the transformer to the mains supply.
As you can see in (Image 2) the end of each winding has a red wire and black wire.
So as I need to wire these winding's in series (220v - 240v). Do I need to determine the order of the winding's. In other words do I need to worry about which red wire I start with. see (Image 3 and Image 4)
Any help on this would be very much appreciated.
Cheers
Stuart
Thanks for trying to help out.
I tried out the method described below (See image 1) and I don't think that's what I am after.
Yes it tells me which winding are in phase but my question is not exactly that.
So I guess I should try and clear up the problem / question.
I have a Antek transformer (Image 2). I live in Australia 220v - 240v and I would like to know if the way or order that I wire the phases makes a difference to the performance or correct way of wiring the transformer to the mains supply.
As you can see in (Image 2) the end of each winding has a red wire and black wire.
So as I need to wire these winding's in series (220v - 240v). Do I need to determine the order of the winding's. In other words do I need to worry about which red wire I start with. see (Image 3 and Image 4)
Any help on this would be very much appreciated.
Cheers
Stuart
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The current needs to flow in the same direction in both primary windings or their magnetic fields will cancel. Both image 3 and 4 appear good because in either case the flow is from R to B or vice-versa.
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Thanks for your input. That's exactly what I thought. But how do I know which red wire is which in (image 2) so that I can wire the transformer as per (image 3)
It doesn't matter in absolute terms, although you could find situations where there were 'differences', particularly if you had for example two transformers running together and they were physically each within magnetic influence of each other.
Then it is just trial and error to see which gives lowest noise/hum/distortion or whatever.
Simple answer is no, it doesn't matter.
Then it is just trial and error to see which gives lowest noise/hum/distortion or whatever.
Simple answer is no, it doesn't matter.
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