Has anyone here built up this kit? I noticed he does not provide instructions but instead links to NwAvGuy. Also for those in the US did it pass through customs easily and without extra charges?
I was looking for something to use with my Onkyo C-7030, Schiit Modi, and Beyerdynamic Custom Studios.
I was looking for something to use with my Onkyo C-7030, Schiit Modi, and Beyerdynamic Custom Studios.
I use his matte black PCB. Parts can easily be sourced from Mouser. All standard O2 PCBs are following the NwAvGuy schematics with regard to the creative common license. Since you're in US, why not JDS Labs?
Actually even with international shipping Walter is still $20-30 cheaper since it comes with enclosure and power supply/batteries. What I don't know is if the quality of components used is the same or not.
O2 Headphone Amplifier Full Kit
O2 Headphone Amplifier Full Kit
I just built a O2 amplifier bought from him. The parts are standard, except the 470uF caps that are different (he says he changed for ones that had more life hours), although I can't find the reference of this new caps anywhere.
I bought everything separately with the additional "desktop package" of front and rear panel and panel mounted I/O. It was a pain in the *** to implement the 1/4 jack in the standard case (had to move the 220uF caps out of the way, cut the jack pins and solder directly to the metal on the side of it) but it was doable with tinkering. The case is not the Box Enclosures offer, but a similar product which seems high quality (the sanding is coarser though). The PCB was news to me as I've never seen a matte PCB before, and it looks really good.
The service is great, shipping is fast, and it's cheap! (Actually, if you buy everything separately instead of the DIY O2 kit, you can actually get everything cheaper, although the parts com unsorted).
I bought everything separately with the additional "desktop package" of front and rear panel and panel mounted I/O. It was a pain in the *** to implement the 1/4 jack in the standard case (had to move the 220uF caps out of the way, cut the jack pins and solder directly to the metal on the side of it) but it was doable with tinkering. The case is not the Box Enclosures offer, but a similar product which seems high quality (the sanding is coarser though). The PCB was news to me as I've never seen a matte PCB before, and it looks really good.
The service is great, shipping is fast, and it's cheap! (Actually, if you buy everything separately instead of the DIY O2 kit, you can actually get everything cheaper, although the parts com unsorted).
Pls post all O2 related queries on this http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/head...ective2-o2-headphone-amp-diy-project-419.html thread. You will get better answers from experienced DIYers.
Last edited:
Hi, this thread eluded me for some reason 🙂
I can ensure you that all part in the kit are according to NwAvGuy's BoM he published with the following differences:
Those are all amendments made to the parts of the original BoM, if you check on Mouser you'll find those significantly more expensive than the original ones, it's just the volume I buy them in that makes them feasible replacements.
I agree that the mounting of the 1/4" socket requires some tinkering, but it is DIY nonetheless 😉
Most important, R10 and R11 need to be soldered from the underside of the PCB and cut flush on the top and C8 and C9 need to be soldered in with long leads so they are out of the way.
I have to update the guide I made for the desktop kit, some errors in there but will do this before the year ends - hopefully😉
Stefan
I can ensure you that all part in the kit are according to NwAvGuy's BoM he published with the following differences:
- Battery contacts and power socket in the BoM are end of life
- Resistors are sourced directly from a Manufacturer producing for Vishay and Panasonic
- 470µF caps are the alternative from the BoM - Panasonic EEU-FR1V471B life time 8000hrs compared to the Lelon ones with only 3000hrs
- C16 and C21 replaced with better quality ones: -Kemet C322C223K5R5TA
Those are all amendments made to the parts of the original BoM, if you check on Mouser you'll find those significantly more expensive than the original ones, it's just the volume I buy them in that makes them feasible replacements.
I agree that the mounting of the 1/4" socket requires some tinkering, but it is DIY nonetheless 😉
Most important, R10 and R11 need to be soldered from the underside of the PCB and cut flush on the top and C8 and C9 need to be soldered in with long leads so they are out of the way.
I have to update the guide I made for the desktop kit, some errors in there but will do this before the year ends - hopefully😉
Stefan
I soldered the resistors the usual way, only had to chip a bit of the plastic from the corner of the jack and it fit. 🙂
Hi all,
First of all, Stefan, great service and parts! Thanks again for sending the right front panel for the O2 desktop version, I'll be more careful when ordering next time 🙂
I've completed the desktop version about a week ago, and it sounds excellent (as it should). After a bit of searching I found this tutorial: http://www.jdslabs.com/pdf/AssemblyGuide-LEO2ODAC.pdf , but beware, the pictures and text regarding input soldering are somewhat confusing. Note: JDS Labs don't have this file accessible from their regular "Instructional Guides"-page.
If you choose to use Stefan's desktop kit, I'd suggest to connect the RCA-output wires to the headphone out (J3, not P2) to the underside of the amp (solder on top of the PCB) and route them trough BT2 (although routing them through the hole at the back would be the safest option if your wires permit it). Added capacitance from this seems to be negligible, since stayed under the base capacitance/capacitance from the probes (I used a Fluke 87). Capacitance measured between ground and several outputs/inputs (if I remember correctly) stayed under 0.15 uF (including the "base capacitance") so the added wires shouldn't result in any problems. Note: I couldn't do the measurements as suggested by Nwavguy (because I wouldn't be able to do anything to prevent the PCB from shorting out during these measurements), so there might be a difference in your build, but my amp seems to function perfectly.
First of all, Stefan, great service and parts! Thanks again for sending the right front panel for the O2 desktop version, I'll be more careful when ordering next time 🙂
I've completed the desktop version about a week ago, and it sounds excellent (as it should). After a bit of searching I found this tutorial: http://www.jdslabs.com/pdf/AssemblyGuide-LEO2ODAC.pdf , but beware, the pictures and text regarding input soldering are somewhat confusing. Note: JDS Labs don't have this file accessible from their regular "Instructional Guides"-page.
If you choose to use Stefan's desktop kit, I'd suggest to connect the RCA-output wires to the headphone out (J3, not P2) to the underside of the amp (solder on top of the PCB) and route them trough BT2 (although routing them through the hole at the back would be the safest option if your wires permit it). Added capacitance from this seems to be negligible, since stayed under the base capacitance/capacitance from the probes (I used a Fluke 87). Capacitance measured between ground and several outputs/inputs (if I remember correctly) stayed under 0.15 uF (including the "base capacitance") so the added wires shouldn't result in any problems. Note: I couldn't do the measurements as suggested by Nwavguy (because I wouldn't be able to do anything to prevent the PCB from shorting out during these measurements), so there might be a difference in your build, but my amp seems to function perfectly.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.