I've bitten the bullet and decided to crimp not solder. But I'm faced with a wide array of terminals (forks, rings, spaces etc), uninsulated, insulated, insulated with heat shrink.
I favour heat shrink, but the pre-insulated terminals are relatively expensive compared to uninsulated.
I was wondering if buying uninsulated and buying heat shrink separate was an actual economy or if I'm just making a rod for my back. I'm not planning on crimping 1000's, more like a couple of hundred, so don't mind if there's a little extra work involved.
Ideas?
I favour heat shrink, but the pre-insulated terminals are relatively expensive compared to uninsulated.
I was wondering if buying uninsulated and buying heat shrink separate was an actual economy or if I'm just making a rod for my back. I'm not planning on crimping 1000's, more like a couple of hundred, so don't mind if there's a little extra work involved.
Ideas?
I tend to use the non-insulated ones as I can then more clearly inspect my crimp. I usually buy the high heat ones as they seem to be made of "sterner" stuff. I do add a bit of heat shrink on most terminals.
I'm not familiar with the "insulated with heat shrink" terminals. There are splices that have solder inside and shrink on the outside and shrinking also melts the solder for a joint.
The crimp type really need a proper controlled cycle tool for reliable results. And then you need all the special jaws for the different terminals you may need, $$$. However the solder devices need a specific heat gun to work as well.
The crimp type really need a proper controlled cycle tool for reliable results. And then you need all the special jaws for the different terminals you may need, $$$. However the solder devices need a specific heat gun to work as well.
The type of crimp is usually different depending on whether the terminal is insulated or uninsulated. Uninsulated terminals are usually open-barrel F crimps, where the crimp area has ears that roll inward to compress the wire strands. Insulated terminals are, well, closed-barrel, where the barrel just squashes on top of the strands. Non-generic forms can be TE's PIDG which also include a metal insert to maintain a resilient hold on the wire insulation.
What's your budget and what wire sizes are you looking to crimp?
What's your budget and what wire sizes are you looking to crimp?
Last edited:
On some tools, the INS position is really for crimping a sleeve over the insulation, on terminals that are equipped with an additional thin metal sleeve under the plastic insulator.
I like the simple forged crimp pliers that give plenty of leverage (9.5" overall length) and "feel". Mine are from T&B, WT-111-M, but I've seen nearly identical crimpers from other brands including Snap-on.
If it's crimpers for the tiny multi-pin housings, there are many different types. Common wire-to-board, wire-to-wire connectors, and crimp tools – Matt's Tech Pages
Crimping tool test that I screwed up. (Read description.) - YouTube
I ordered an IWISS IWS-2820M from this vendor, but haven't tested it yet:
JST 2.54 2510 Connector plug + needle +socket Header Mini Micro Open Barrel Crimping Tools for AWG28 20 Terminals and Connectors|Pliers| - AliExpress
I like the simple forged crimp pliers that give plenty of leverage (9.5" overall length) and "feel". Mine are from T&B, WT-111-M, but I've seen nearly identical crimpers from other brands including Snap-on.
If it's crimpers for the tiny multi-pin housings, there are many different types. Common wire-to-board, wire-to-wire connectors, and crimp tools – Matt's Tech Pages
Crimping tool test that I screwed up. (Read description.) - YouTube
I ordered an IWISS IWS-2820M from this vendor, but haven't tested it yet:
JST 2.54 2510 Connector plug + needle +socket Header Mini Micro Open Barrel Crimping Tools for AWG28 20 Terminals and Connectors|Pliers| - AliExpress
Tin the bare wire, then insert into crimp terminal, crimp, then soldering iron to the crimp & feed in a bit more solder, then clear heatshrink over the lot...
That's what I do for my audio terminals, but that's with a basic crimp tool. If you are doing loads, get the specific crimp tool for the terminal & yes they cost ££££. I would still prefer to cut & place my own heat shrink & I usually use clear so I can see the crimp at a later date if required..
That's what I do for my audio terminals, but that's with a basic crimp tool. If you are doing loads, get the specific crimp tool for the terminal & yes they cost ££££. I would still prefer to cut & place my own heat shrink & I usually use clear so I can see the crimp at a later date if required..
Crimping has been a big issue since I joined this forum in 2003. Some say crimp, some say crimp and solder, some say crimp (pretend) and solder. Hard to say what is better. Divergent opinions everywhere.
You want to crimp and heatshrink over it, seems fine in the long run.
You want to crimp and heatshrink over it, seems fine in the long run.
I'll explain my thoughts as follows:-
(These are general sweeping statements)
Soldering wire to anything provides a very good electrical connection, but not a strong mechanical connection.
Using basic crimps on a wire provides a very good mechanical connection, but a poor electrical connection compared to solder.
If you use special crimp tools/jaws & or the hex sided crimps etc., then you can get a very good electrical connection as well as a very good mechanical connection.
Wire to wire connections (in line) I now only use clear heat shrink with solder in it. This also has glue/sealant at the end to totally seal the "tube" from water etc. These connections have been used in the automotive industry to make wire looms for years.
As I don't have any specialist or hex crimp tools, & just the basic version, I crimp & solder so both the mechanical & electrical connections are very good. Heat shrink is applied over this if required.
(These are general sweeping statements)
Soldering wire to anything provides a very good electrical connection, but not a strong mechanical connection.
Using basic crimps on a wire provides a very good mechanical connection, but a poor electrical connection compared to solder.
If you use special crimp tools/jaws & or the hex sided crimps etc., then you can get a very good electrical connection as well as a very good mechanical connection.
Wire to wire connections (in line) I now only use clear heat shrink with solder in it. This also has glue/sealant at the end to totally seal the "tube" from water etc. These connections have been used in the automotive industry to make wire looms for years.
As I don't have any specialist or hex crimp tools, & just the basic version, I crimp & solder so both the mechanical & electrical connections are very good. Heat shrink is applied over this if required.
Interesting thanks to all. I'm just starting out on this. Might as well try just crimping then resort to solder if I can't get a good crimp. Transparent heat shrink sounds good. Though EBay has lots of cheap coloured 3:1 glue lined heat shrink and at pretty decent prices...