Hi.
I have bought a pair of them.
But someone burnt tweets and put inside front plate car doom tweeter.
Speakers are 180w/300w 4-8ohm 2.5 way.
Drivers mid and bass 8ohm (5.4ohm DC)
Tweets unknown, I think they were 8 ohm as well but previous owner doesn't leave old parts unfortunately.
I contacted HECO directly and tweets are eol (end of life) I was ask them about tweeter specification but they refuse to answer.
I Google a lot and get just tiny amount of information. 1st crossover point it's 300hz 2nd 3400hz.
I bought SB acoustic tweeter 4ohm crossover point 2500hz and monacor 8ohm with similar crossover point. SB Acoustic handle 120w, monacor 100w peak (50W rms).
An now my question is. Can I use any of those tweeters?
I have attached picture of crossover schematic, I haven't measured inductors and resistors. But I will do if it's necessary.
I have bought a pair of them.
But someone burnt tweets and put inside front plate car doom tweeter.
Speakers are 180w/300w 4-8ohm 2.5 way.
Drivers mid and bass 8ohm (5.4ohm DC)
Tweets unknown, I think they were 8 ohm as well but previous owner doesn't leave old parts unfortunately.
I contacted HECO directly and tweets are eol (end of life) I was ask them about tweeter specification but they refuse to answer.
I Google a lot and get just tiny amount of information. 1st crossover point it's 300hz 2nd 3400hz.
I bought SB acoustic tweeter 4ohm crossover point 2500hz and monacor 8ohm with similar crossover point. SB Acoustic handle 120w, monacor 100w peak (50W rms).
An now my question is. Can I use any of those tweeters?
I have attached picture of crossover schematic, I haven't measured inductors and resistors. But I will do if it's necessary.
Attachments
You can use these tweeters but probably they don't work as the original. For better result, the crossover more than likely needs to be modified for the specific tweeter you want to use.
One approach that could help you visualise what is going on is to input the component values for the crossover into a sim like Xsim or VituixCad, and apply flat frequency response and fixed impedance.
To do this you will have to measure those inductors without values on your schematic. This should provide an approximation for comparison purposes. then you could drop in the traced frequency and impedance data for your new tweeter and see how they differ. The results are open to interpretation, but its better than nothing and its a worthwhile mental exercise and learning opportunity.
Having a basic simulation should allow you to change components, hopefully just resistance values to allow you to match levels if you have too much treble.
Failing this you should seek out a friend who can do some measurements for you, or consider putting together your own measurement rig.
To do this you will have to measure those inductors without values on your schematic. This should provide an approximation for comparison purposes. then you could drop in the traced frequency and impedance data for your new tweeter and see how they differ. The results are open to interpretation, but its better than nothing and its a worthwhile mental exercise and learning opportunity.
Having a basic simulation should allow you to change components, hopefully just resistance values to allow you to match levels if you have too much treble.
Failing this you should seek out a friend who can do some measurements for you, or consider putting together your own measurement rig.