Help diagnose (intermittent) channel failure of Soundstream Ref 300

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Hey, guys. I'm currently using a Soundstream Reference 300 (2 channel) to power a set of compression drivers (CD for short). This amplifier was purchased used via eBay last March and had been modified by Gordon Taylor (out of the UK) for the previous owner for compression driver use, specifically. This is the info the seller forwarded me regarding the modifications:
The 300 is now set up for horns - I've dropped the power amp gain to improve signal to noise ratio which is now nudging 100dBA reference to 1 watt. As standard this was around 86 so the 14dB improvement is around a 30x reduction in noise.

The preamp gain has also been reduced so you should be able to match levels with your midbass drivers when fed from a similar signal level. It's got one of the new LME chips in the preamp too and bipolar caps.

The distortion level at 1 watt is an infintessimal 0.0016% as it's still mostly running in class A at that point. 1 watt equates to pretty high sound levels with horns ( 106 - 110dB spl) so any distortion won't be coming from the amp, and at anything but extreme listening levels you will be enjoying the warmth of Class A through the horns.



This thing is sweeeet. And DEAD quiet. Perfect for my CDs. Unfortunately, about two months ago I noticed that my left CD would come and go... sometimes it would play, sometimes it wouldn't. Now, while the sound goes away it doesn't completely go away... If I use my DSP to mute all speakers except this one I can still very, very faintly hear music/sound coming from the speaker.

The problem is so intermittent, however, it's hard to really do any troubleshooting. For example, I drive 80 miles roundtrip for work each day. Sometimes I'll lose speaker output for minutes at a time, sometimes I'll not lose output at all and sometimes I'll never have it to begin with (from the time I start the car). Thus far, for troubleshooting, I have changed RCAs, swapped RCA outputs, and swapped speaker leads. The issue always follows Channel 1's output.

However, one thing always fixes the issue: volume. If I crank the volume up to about 30/40 on the headunit (typical listening volume is in the low 20's) the sound snaps right back and all is well. If I turn the volume down, the speaker *might* still play or it *might* go quiet again; but it's not instantaneous... meaning that the sound doesn't always go away as soon as I turn the volume down. But if I hit it with some juice it wakes right back up.

There's also a couple other minor things I noticed when I got it that could be related or could be completely coincidental: alternator whine is prevalent when this amp is integrated in my system. When it's not, I have no alternator whine. The LED status indicator for the operating mode will stay dimly lit for a very long time after the amplifier is turned off. If power is physically removed/disconnected the LED turns all the way off. Again, these may just be coincidental.


I have contacted a trustworthy amplifier repair tech who told me who would take a look at it but he's currently backlogged and it may take him 4 weeks' turnaround time. Given that, I thought I'd post here for any advice as to what I can look for to see if maybe it's something simple and I can repair it myself. I did take the case off last week and looked over the uncovered side but didn't see any physical issues but I also don't really know what, exactly, to look for. I can provide pictures later if needed. On hand, I have a DMM but no scope.

I would really, really like to keep using this amp given it's incredibly high SNR so I appreciate any advice/input you guys can kick my way. If all else fails, I'll send it off for repair.

Erin
 
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These things have a serious problem with dirty switch contacts. See if Jaime at J&Relectronix (sp?) on ebay has any left (if he's still in business).

Generally, moving the switches will make the symptoms get better or worse so that may tell you which one is causing the problem.
 
Thanks for the prompt reply!

I am electronics-repair ignorant. So I did a search and came up with this thread that had you suggesting the same fix there.
Soundstream 500

So for clarification, are we talking all switches? The mode switches? Gain pot, as well?
I’ll swing by the store on my way home from work and pick up some contact cleaner and give it a shot.
 
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ALL of the switches in these amps cause problems. Some can be cleaned to work fairly well. Some of the 2-position switches are virtually hopeless.


Ok. Would you mind giving me an idea of what/where the switches are, based on the photo in the above linked thread?

If that’s too much trouble, I understand.

I don’t know jack about electronics repair so I’m just touch and go here. But I figure I can at least try some things myself before sending it off for repair.
 
It appears this one has only one switch in the audio circuit (unless there are others on the top of the amp). The 'yellow' switch is the one that's likely causing problems. The 'green' switch is for the power supply and wouldn't affect a single channel.

Sorry for the quality of the photo. It's very old.
 

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Perry, your suggestion to clean the switch was spot on. When I got home I unmounted the amplifier and jiggled the speaker output switch. I noticed the sound come and go from the left speaker. So, I removed it from the car and cleaned the switch out. Placed it back in the car and the speaker was playing. I jiggled the switch and the sound from the speakers stayed put. Wish I had known how simple a fix this was two months ago. But I'm glad I know. And I'm glad I posted here before sending it off.

I'll still talk to the tech about replacing the switch sometime in the future (and will actively seek one in the meantime) and get that done just in case. It looks like jandrelectronix is NLA on eBay and from the service manual, it's hard to make out the part number for the 3 position switch, so if anyone can offer some insight in to finding a replacement speaker mode switch for this amp, that would be appreciated.

Thanks again for the help.

- Erin
 
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Ok. I kind of figured the switch didn't have to be an OEM part but was hoping that I could identify the one used, find the specs for it (like you mentioned) and then find a replacement. If anyone has that information or can even direct me to a replacement they used that would be appreciated*.


*wow, I sure do say "that would be appreciated" a lot. I need a thesaurus.
 
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