Hi,
I received a Marantz CD 6000 OSE with a non-working RCA output.
I opened it, I'm not an expert so I'm asking for your help, and if I'm not mistaken it seems that three capacitors have leaked some liquid and the same for what should be a 16.9344MHZ oscillator (I read the service manual).
Marantz CD 6000 OSE - Google Photos
Can you confirm my analysis? Can I replace oscillator with a common 16.9344MHZ 2-pin one?
Do you have any other suggestion?
The output of RCA at the first power on was very very feeble, then it fully disappeared. The optical exit it's working right.
Thanks in advance
I received a Marantz CD 6000 OSE with a non-working RCA output.
I opened it, I'm not an expert so I'm asking for your help, and if I'm not mistaken it seems that three capacitors have leaked some liquid and the same for what should be a 16.9344MHZ oscillator (I read the service manual).
Marantz CD 6000 OSE - Google Photos
Can you confirm my analysis? Can I replace oscillator with a common 16.9344MHZ 2-pin one?
Do you have any other suggestion?
The output of RCA at the first power on was very very feeble, then it fully disappeared. The optical exit it's working right.
Thanks in advance
That looks like glue which is commonly used to aid mechanical stability on tall electrolytics.
If you have any audio at all, no matter how feeble, then the oscillator is fine.
Ideally you need a scope to check the audio path. Are the mute transistors OK? and/or not in mute.
If you have any audio at all, no matter how feeble, then the oscillator is fine.
Ideally you need a scope to check the audio path. Are the mute transistors OK? and/or not in mute.
Thanks for the prompt reply Mooly. I'm going to check on service manual for the mute transistors. Is there a simple way to find them?
At the first power on I heard something at high level volume, the other times instead nothing. When it's powered on I can heard a continuous buzz on background.
Sorry for my terrible explanation but I'm not an expert. 😱
At the first power on I heard something at high level volume, the other times instead nothing. When it's powered on I can heard a continuous buzz on background.
Sorry for my terrible explanation but I'm not an expert. 😱
Hearing a buzz suggests something else tbh... but you still need to check the mute.
The mute transistors are the two pairs shown here. The control lines, LMUT and RMUT should be at a negative voltage when playing normally. Those lines will go high to mute.
So that is the first check really.
The headphone output has similar muting. If the control lines are correct and the headphone feed is also faulty then the problem will not be any of those transistors.
The mute transistors are the two pairs shown here. The control lines, LMUT and RMUT should be at a negative voltage when playing normally. Those lines will go high to mute.
So that is the first check really.
The headphone output has similar muting. If the control lines are correct and the headphone feed is also faulty then the problem will not be any of those transistors.
Attachments
Thanks again Mooly, you're very kind.
I've partially reassembled the cd player to test the mute section and it has strange behaviour, I appended a new video in the same gallery.
The RCA out is very feeble, then suddenly it comes out with right volume but a little bit disturbed for 10 seconds, and then it fades out again with some disturbs.
Do you still think it could be the mute section?
I've partially reassembled the cd player to test the mute section and it has strange behaviour, I appended a new video in the same gallery.
The RCA out is very feeble, then suddenly it comes out with right volume but a little bit disturbed for 10 seconds, and then it fades out again with some disturbs.
Do you still think it could be the mute section?
Unless you do some measurements it is all guesswork 🙂 The proper test is to look with an oscilloscope at the output from the opamps (discrete opamps here) as that will be unaffected by the mute...
If you can't do that then you must at least measure the the control lines voltages as I mentioned earlier.
If you remove the mute transistors then you 100% prove/disprove that there is a problem around there. With them removed it is always unmuted.
Just check the voltages 🙂 and try headphones.
If you can't do that then you must at least measure the the control lines voltages as I mentioned earlier.
If you remove the mute transistors then you 100% prove/disprove that there is a problem around there. With them removed it is always unmuted.
Just check the voltages 🙂 and try headphones.
The headphones out has the same faulty behaviour. For the mesurement I'll try the voltage this weekend 🙂
That test means the mute transistors are almost certainly OK but you do need to measure the control voltages next.
Its only a two minute job to do that 🙂
If that doesn't reveal any clues then it all gets much more involved and you would probably need an oscilloscope to investigate further.
Its only a two minute job to do that 🙂
If that doesn't reveal any clues then it all gets much more involved and you would probably need an oscilloscope to investigate further.
I found transistors and multimeter 🙂
They all four measure -11.80V while the player is spinning... but I don't have an oscilloscope
Thanks for your precious answers 😉
They all four measure -11.80V while the player is spinning... but I don't have an oscilloscope
Thanks for your precious answers 😉
If you do not have an oscilloscope then you can use also software based oscilloscope like Zeitnitz scope via soundcard. You only have to be careful not to fry the soundcard input with too high voltage.
Another simple option is to burn a cd with a long 400Hz track and measure AC with a usual digital multimeter.
Another simple option is to burn a cd with a long 400Hz track and measure AC with a usual digital multimeter.
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Thanks madis64, I could use an old netbook without fear to fry it.
But what it's unclear now, cause my newbieness, is how to read the oscilloscope 😀
I think this project is too hard for my poor knowledge 🙄
But what it's unclear now, cause my newbieness, is how to read the oscilloscope 😀
I think this project is too hard for my poor knowledge 🙄
-11 volts means all the transistors should be off (so not muted).
I'm afraid it does sound like this is going to be outside your comfort zone... use of and knowing how to use an oscilloscope is essential here.
I'm afraid it does sound like this is going to be outside your comfort zone... use of and knowing how to use an oscilloscope is essential here.
I'm a computer scientist with poor knowledge of electronic, once I repaired an old amplifier replacing a resistence, I hoped to repair this cd player replacing some components, but it's difficult to diagnose what's the problem.
I know the difference between DC and AC and I'm able to measure with multimeter, not a genius on using it but I do have basic skills.
I can always study, youtube is plenty of videos, but for sure I need spare time, it's not immediate for me 😀
With oscilloscope what kind of information could i grab out?
The oscilloscope shows and plots voltage with respect to time... it traces the voltage out on the screen.
You can look at signal levels, you can look at power supply rails to make sure they are clean and stable.
While it is an essential tool of the trade, it doesn't automatically mean you will be able to fix this fault.
You can look at signal levels, you can look at power supply rails to make sure they are clean and stable.
While it is an essential tool of the trade, it doesn't automatically mean you will be able to fix this fault.
Have you downloaded the service manual for the player (there you get the schematics) and can you upload some photos of the player's internals?
What you are describing may (or may not) hint at a deteriorated solder joint somewhere and to find it you have to inspect the board which means that you have to be able to take it out and put it back without damaging the cable connections.
What you are describing may (or may not) hint at a deteriorated solder joint somewhere and to find it you have to inspect the board which means that you have to be able to take it out and put it back without damaging the cable connections.
Thanks Mooly, I've seen an introduction video on Youtube and I understand that with service manual and an oscilloscope I could check every component (included the power one) to see if they have problem.
Madis64 I made some fresh new pictures, uploaded here:
Marantz CD 6000 OSE - Google Photos
I don't know to umount the boards that are above the motherboard.
In any case, guys, you are very kind. I appreciate so much.
Madis64 I made some fresh new pictures, uploaded here:
Marantz CD 6000 OSE - Google Photos
I don't know to umount the boards that are above the motherboard.
In any case, guys, you are very kind. I appreciate so much.
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How are your soldering skills?
It seems from the photos that for taking any voltage measurements during operation (with board more or less in place) it is necessary to unsolder and remove the copper covers of the HDAM units.
It seems from the photos that for taking any voltage measurements during operation (with board more or less in place) it is necessary to unsolder and remove the copper covers of the HDAM units.
is it reacting/responding to mechanical shock i.e. wiggling an RCA cable makes it cut in and out? if so i would check and resolder the connections to the RCA jacks.
Basic, I've soldered some resistance and changed an headphone's speaker. Not enough 🙄
The same issue is present on headphone out 🙁